Super tight clutch issue…. (1 Viewer)

[Mark Jennings]

Any idea on cost of something like that to have done? Not something I could do.

If you are referring to ‘double clutching’ it something you do….not something you buy….e.g. it is a shifting technique used by commercial truck drivers or vintage English sports car drivers.

Clutch in, push to neutral, clutch out, give it some gas to match engine speed with transmission speed, clutch in, push to next gear, clutch out in next gear….

If you have ever driven a rig without synchros or spent you free time on the track, or autocross, you would be well versed.

I always double clutch, in fact the Toyota FJ40 pedal cluster is perfect for heal, toe, double clutch.

 

[sleepycruiser]

If you are referring to ‘double clutching’ it something you do….not something you buy….e.g. it is a shifting technique used by commercial truck drivers or vintage English sports car drivers.

Clutch in, push to neutral, clutch out, give it some gas to match engine speed with transmission speed, clutch in, push to next gear, clutch out in next gear….

If you have ever driven a rig without synchros or spent you free time on the track, or autocross, you would be well versed.

I always double clutch, in fact the Toyota FJ40 pedal cluster is perfect for heal, toe, double clutch.

I am talking about replacing the synchros

 

[Mark Jennings]

I am talking about replacing the synchros

DYI it’s pretty inexpensive, just labor intense to get the transmission, transfer case out. And tear down of transmission. There are many venders on Mud that sell overhaul kits with bearings, gaskets and synchro clutches.

I have no ideal what a shop would charge.

And since your in there, I’d do a clutch replacement and be seriously thinking of TC overhaul.

 

[pb4ugo]

It happens in every single gear. I should have been more clear about that. It didn’t seem to get better, but I only drove it a total of around 8 miles round trip.

Let's get the trans lube up to operating temps and see if it shifts better. Maybe check your clutch adjustment.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Let's get the trans lube up to operating temps and see if it shifts better. Maybe check your clutch adjustment.

How long should it have to run before it is at operating temps? It is about 40 degrees out today…I was thinking a few miles would have been good enough.

 

[Mark Jennings]

Give her a good 10 mile drive at speed…..that should do it.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Question….can 75w90 GL4 be used? I would just re-drain/fill the transmission and TC.

Might just get this ordered. Enough to do the transmission and TC twice each.

https://a.co/d/80yUssx

 

[Mark Jennings]

There is a ton of discussion on GL-4 vs. GL-5 on Google……I would say on anything older than 2000, with a standard transmission, using bronze or brass for synchro clutches, spacers and shims, I’d be looking at GL-4.

Using GL-5 would be OK for a for a short time, but I’d be changing it shortly.

 

[65swb45]

How long should it have to run before it is at operating temps? It is about 40 degrees out today…I was thinking a few miles would have been good enough.

I had a friend that moved to the mountains about 20 years ago that started having issues with cold shifting.

He told me his solution: he shifted the transfer case into neutral and let the truck warm up with the transmission in gear.

I recommended you try this first. KIS

 

[sleepycruiser]

I had a friend that moved to the mountains about 20 years ago that started having issues with cold shifting.

He told me his solution: he shifted the transfer case into neutral and let the truck warm up with the transmission in gear.

I recommended you try this first. KIS

Maybe I’m missing what you are saying. How do you do that?

The 40 stays in my garage so doesn’t get super cold and it was 40 degrees when driving. I’d considered maybe the colder weather was the issue, but not sure.

 

[Mark Jennings]

To convince yourself 40 degree gear oil is like molasses, leave a bottle in your garage and leave a bottle in your nice warm house. Then pour a cup of each into another container. Then tell us which one pours easier, the 40 degree oil or the 70 degree oil.

Putting the transfer case in neutral and idling in 3rd gear is a great idea for uber cold mornings, like below 0…..however, at 40 degrees just letting it idle ‘till you see the engine temp start to climb should transfer enough heat from the engine to the transmission to allow smooth shifts.

If you aren’t the original owner, and you personally didn’t upgrade the 64 to the 4 speed……there are probably a ton of miles on the transmission with ‘who knows’ what gear oil has bathed its innards all these years.

 

[charliemeyer007]

In did 85-140 gear oil in all the boxes. At -25 moving the shifter was like trying to push a ladle threw cold peanut butter, however in about 10' of driving it was back to normal effortless shifting.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Kind of a final thought here before you condemn the transmission….have you tried ‘double clutching’ into gear….upshift or downshift….if it double clutches smoothly into 3rd (up or down) but not when you just ‘shove her home’….then that’s a pretty good indication of failing synchro rings.

Took it out and ‘double clutched’ to change to all gears and it worked fine. Then I clutched normally it was fine as well. So maybe the synchros?

 

[65swb45]

IMO double-clutching only means one thing: hydraulics. Either they’re out of mechanical adjustment, or the pressure seals are failing.

www.marksoffroad.net

 

[sleepycruiser]

IMO double-clutching only means one thing: hydraulics. Either they’re out of mechanical adjustment, or the pressure seals are failing.

www.marksoffroad.net

For the master and slave cylinders? Should I rebuild or replace? I also realized I’m missing the flywheel cover.

 

[too tall]

IMO double-clutching only means one thing: hydraulics. Either they’re out of mechanical adjustment, or the pressure seals are failing.

www.marksoffroad.net

That is what I was trying to get at earlier. Gear oil doesn't have much to do with your clutch not working properly. As I said in my first post I would check the master cylinder and slave. Rule them out entirely before doing anything to the transmission.

 

[pb4ugo]

Start with the simple stuff. Have you adjusted the clutch per the FSM?

 

[too tall]

DYI it’s pretty inexpensive, just labor intense to get the transmission, transfer case out. And tear down of transmission. There are many venders on Mud that sell overhaul kits with bearings, gaskets and synchro clutches.

I have no ideal what a shop would charge.

And since your in there, I’d do a clutch replacement and be seriously thinking of TC overhaul.

Not the advice I would have given. Your transmission is most likely fine. Your clutch and t-case as well. Get the hydraulics working properly. I prefer to gravity bleed hydraulics. Much easier when alone. Remove the cap from the master then crack the bleeder on the slave. Watch for bubbles, close the bleeder when the air bubbles stop coming out and it is just clear fluid. Make sure you keep then master full of fluid. If you replace then master, be sure to bench bleed it before installation.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Not the advice I would have given. Your transmission is most likely fine. Your clutch and t-case as well. Get the hydraulics working properly. I prefer to gravity bleed hydraulics. Much easier when alone. Remove the cap from the master then crack the bleeder on the slave. Watch for bubbles, close the bleeder when the air bubbles stop coming out and it is just clear fluid. Make sure you keep then master full of fluid. If you replace then master, be sure to bench bleed it before installation.

Thanks. I bled the clutch a few months ago and the fluid in it was super dirty. The fluid seems pretty clean still. I did have my daughter push in the clutch today while I was underneath to make sure the slave was moving the clutch back and forth and it was. Maybe it isn’t pushing it far enough bc of the seals/pressure and that could be the issue maybe?

I’ll re-bleed this week and see if that makes a difference. If it doesn’t then maybe time to replace the MC and SC.

 

[Mark Jennings]

That is what I was trying to get at earlier. Gear oil doesn't have much to do with your clutch not working properly. As I said in my first post I would check the master cylinder and slave. Rule them out entirely before doing anything to the transmission.

I don't disagree with Mark or Too Tall…..However, you more or less proved hydraulic and mechanical adjustment with your static check, e.g. push the clutch in, put her in first (or any gear) and see if there is any drag on the engine ‘with the clutch disengaged’. You stated earlier, she “rolled freely” in gear, clutch in…..so I suspect your problem isn’t there….but to make sure….double check. As they recommend.

I have driven many-a-vehicle with mechanical, and hydraulic clutch systems, if the clutch is dragging, it’s in the levers, cables, hydraulics. If it isn’t dragging, chances are it’s in the gearbox. If it’ll ‘double clutch’ smoothly, then I would suspect the brass synchro clutches….and you can drive for many years double clutching when she’s cantankerous, and of coarse, keeping up with the fluids. Besides, if you haven’t owned from new and know 1st hand what, if any, maintenance has been performed….you don’t know what lurks in that gear box’s rusty innards.