Stupid question about shocks (1 Viewer)

[r0nd0]

I’m going to replace the shocks on my 100 soon, but am a little confused. I’ve never changed a shock in any of my 20 years of driving, surprisingly, and this LC has a very small lift on it, I can’t tell if the shocks are aftermarket or stock, but….. if it has a lift that’s probably no bigger than 1.5” (if that) can I just buy factory oem shocks? I don’t know how to buy shocks for a lifted vehicle lol

 

[Dirt J]

Yes, many of us, including myself run factory Toyota shocks with small lift (less than 3").

 

[Les Summer]

I’m going to replace the shocks on my 100 soon, but am a little confused. I’ve never changed a shock in any of my 20 years of driving, surprisingly, and this LC has a very small lift on it, I can’t tell if the shocks are aftermarket or stock, but….. if it has a lift that’s probably no bigger than 1.5” (if that) can I just buy factory oem shocks? I don’t know how to buy shocks for a lifted vehicle lol

get a flex head 22mm ratchet if you don't already have one. get big channel locks too. You may have to lay a 22mm box wrench on the shock nut on the rear shock by the muffler, and use the channel locks to twist the shock to loosen the 22mm nut. It's cramped up there, and people have reported problems with getting off the shock on that side. good luck. I plan on replacing my shocks with all new OEM some time in the not so near future..

 

[Wilsil]

I’m going to replace the shocks on my 100 soon, but am a little confused. I’ve never changed a shock in any of my 20 years of driving, surprisingly, and this LC has a very small lift on it, I can’t tell if the shocks are aftermarket or stock, but….. if it has a lift that’s probably no bigger than 1.5” (if that) can I just buy factory oem shocks? I don’t know how to buy shocks for a lifted vehicle lol

In general OEM shocks are black, aftermarket are not.
Try and find a number on the shock, if it's OEM it will most likley say Toyota as well.

 

[r0nd0]

Thanks for the replies, guys, makes me feel better. the shocks are black. Maybe they are oem? But at least now I know I can go that route.

 

[excessive]

pull one off and post a picture of it on here, we should be able to figure out of it's OEM or not. there should be a stamp somwhere on it

 

[leej]

I want to replace my original OEM shocks as well (2000 LC with 180K miles), but wondering if I should replace the springs too (or anything else at the same time)?

This is my daily driver, no lift, and minimal off roading. I'm just trying to improve the ride. Should I also replace the springs, or any other bushings? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Lee
2000 LC

 

[kjsmiff]

Pre soak the nuts on top pf the shock with penetrating lubricant the day before you take this on. If you are doing this in your garage and not on the lift, it's going to be very difficult, so if you have access to a lift, I would suggest using it. Also, channel locks might work, but my shocks had never been replaced in 167,000 miles and I had to use a pipe wrench myself. The old shocks will get mangled in the process of taking them out, but who cares.

 

[leej]

@kjsmiff thanks for the reply. Did you do springs as well (I don't notice any sagging on mine (although there is probably some), and I'm not doing any serious off roading)? Any other items I should replace while I'm in there?

Thanks!

Lee
2000LC

 

[kjsmiff]

yes, I replaced the springs as well. I had access to a hydraulic lift which made it pretty simple...honestly, I spent more time on the two nuts on top of the rear shocks than anything else on the job. I would have some replacement plastic tabs on hand for the inner fender wells as they might break or get mangled when you pull them off for access to the front shocks. If you can't find them, some small black zip ties will do the trick.

 

[jasoncjung]

OEM shocks are black and labeled Toyota or Tokico. I replaced my original ones at 165K earlier this year (2001 original owner). Rear top nuts are what will take the most time. I did it in garage with tall jack stands and removing the spare. 22mm flex head on top, but this was the workhorse that made it decently easy (tedious but not difficult) work - 2595D 1/2" Drive Chain Wrench - Gearwrench - https://www.gearwrench.com/products/auto-specialty/oil-filter-wrenches/2595d-12-drive-chain-wrench which I used with a 18 or 24" breaker bar. yes the rear shocks get mangled but you are throwing them away anyways.

You can re-use the metal washers (or whatever they call them), but the rubber bushings you'll use new ones. I also bought new bolts from the dealer for where it connects to the arms. I didn't need to remove any fender liners. The fronts are easily accessible from the wheel well once you remove the tires.

just go one quarter/eighth of a turn at a time, and eventually it'll come off. then be glad you don't have to do it for another 150k-ish miles.