Stuck flange? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bls72bmw
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I’ve tried that method but my hammer is a bit light and my brass drift is a bit skinny. I’ve got an 8 lb sledge I can try if I can convince someone to hold the drift. I hope my aim is true.
Partial victory! I got the passenger side flange off. Wasn’t brave enough to swing the 8 lb sledge so just kept going with the the 2 lb hammer. At one point it didn’t seem like the axle would move any further inward so I put a spacer between flange and hub (see ratchet). That did the trick. Still have to get the driver’s flange off but not sure my drift-holding hand can take any more blows from the hammer. If this nightmare is due to aftermarket CVs and incorrect tolerance on the splines, I would pay whatever Toyota wants for a CV to avoid this. Thanks for the help everyone.
Yes aftermarket axles often cause interference with the flange-
There’s many good reasons to choose OEM for this specific component.
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What’s frustrating about this is a Landcruiser specialty shop put aftermarket CVs on when I assumed they would use OEM since they were the experts. My fault for not specifying I guess. I opted to run them since they were already installed and I was tired of dealing with the shop. I’m guessing putting the flanges back on is going to be just as difficult. I’m wondering if I should go ahead and replace with OEM axles so bearing service won’t always be so painful.
What’s frustrating about this is a Landcruiser specialty shop put aftermarket CVs on when I assumed they would use OEM since they were the experts. My fault for not specifying I guess. I opted to run them since they were already installed and I was tired of dealing with the shop. I’m guessing putting the flanges back on is going to be just as difficult. I’m wondering if I should go ahead and replace with OEM axles so bearing service won’t always be so painful.
My thought is if it were a legit LC Specialty shop- they should have suggested OEM first and explained the benefits of spending more. Then if cost was an issue, provide you with the best lower cost option and what you might encounter (like fit issues). Then let You decide. Its simply poor or inexperienced service writer work there.
Anyway you'll have to be prepared to spend $1500 +/- to correct all of this if you're paying someone to do it. Between new parts and labor- OEM CV axles, New outer circlip and grease cap- New Flanges, new diff seals, gear oil and labor. The other challenge you'll likely have is them properly setting your wheel bearing preload and reusing parts that shouldn't be reused.
You're in MS right? Is there a 49Tire near you? If not maybe one of the MSCottonland Club Members can help you out with a recommendation or lend a hand with doing it yourself- ( which is the best course of action).
Anyway you'll have to be prepared to spend $1500 +/- to correct all of this if you're paying someone to do it. Between new parts and labor- OEM CV axles, New outer circlip and grease cap- New Flanges, new diff seals, gear oil and labor. The other challenge you'll likely have is them properly setting your wheel bearing preload and reusing parts that shouldn't be reused.
You're in MS right? Is there a 49Tire near you? If not maybe one of the MSCottonland Club Members can help you out with a recommendation or lend a hand with doing it yourself- ( which is the best course of action).
I've a nice set of used (5K miles) aftermarket FDS (CV), in storage. With good used OEM hub flanges. The slightly worn splines (teeth) of hub flange, fit sung on axle without binding. I just keep them around, in case someone needs a cheap set. I pulled them off and 07 I bought, to installing OEM.
Risky using a steel spacer between hub flange and wheel hub. Brass and spaced unevenly on each, reduces rish of damage.
Alternative to brass drift and hammer:
You can also use a 2 or 3 leg puller, w/adjustable legs. Local parts stores loan them out. Attach the legs to back of wheel hub when use very large puller. Back of hub flange, when using smaller puller (note may damage hub flange). Then drive end (screw) into center of axle.
We need to avoid warping or distorting mating surface of wheel hub or hub flange. Otherwise we risk water leakage into bearings. This is why we should never pound on hub flange, especial with hard metals.
Thanks for suggestions. I’ll try the puller method this afternoon. The previously recommended LC shop is who installed the aftermarket CVs. Not sure why they would have installed a part that required a flange to be hammered on. My fault for not specifying OEM I guess. Send me a PM with a price for those CVs and flanges if you’re willing to sell. I may go that route.
Just to close this out: finally got the other flange off. I will be replacing axles and flanges since I couldn’t get the flanges back on after completing wheel bearing and brake service. Since I knew I was replacing the flanges I tried heating them in the oven to see if it would help with install. At 400 degrees the flanges slid on easily by hand but got stuck once the axle was flush with the flange. Wheel puller wouldn’t pull axle through flange either. Thanks again for help.
