stuck fill plug

[cruisermaine]

I am having a problem removing the fill plug on my rear diff. It seams to be rusted solid. This is especially bad since I've already drained it ;-( I soaked it with WD40 but that doesn't seem to be working. I tried as long a cheater bar as would fit under there but it wouldn't budge. Any recommendations on how to break this loose? I am going to need the truck soon.

TIA
Peter

 

[nakman]

Are you using a 6-point socket? also try squirting it with some PB Blaster... it'll break free, be patient.

 

[cruisermaine]

YEs, I am using a 6-point 24mm socket. I don't have PB Blaster....I'll have to check and see if it's available locally.

Peter

 

[firetruck41]

If the bolt head is stripped you are going to hav a tough time, but you could try using a jack under the socket wrench handle to see if you can break it free, the head on mine was stripped/rounded so I had to go a different route. I know it may be too late for you but I had a local muffler shop put it on a lift, weld a nut on it and they were able to use a socket to remove the plug, he was originally gonna charge me $10, but wouldn't take any money, nice guy. I replaced it with a new plug and tourqed it to the proper tourque

 

[Junk]

Congrats. You have now learned the hard way why it is so important to open the fill plug first.

IT's a thick bolt, but be aware if it's a pita to get out not to break it off cause that would suck.

You can search the archives for other threads related to this too for ideas like heating it etc. Definitely get some penetrant on it with PB Blaster likely being you best choice since you may not have access to kroil or others.

 

[Doc]

Ok, flip the truck over- fill the diff, flip it back on it's tires. Simple really....

Like suggested above, go buy some PB blaster and soak it. Wait a couple of hours, go soak it agian, repeat. At about hour number 12, go try to remove the plug.

PB blaster takes some time to work on really stubborn bolts, but it does work eventually.

 

[clownmidget]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=20736
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=20794

Peter, try the search, these are only a few days old! Good luck though.

Mike R.

 

[IdahoDoug]

After using PB on it, be sure to actually use a degreaser a couple times on the bolt prior to going at it again. Ditto the socket. If there's ANY lubricant on it, the socket will come off it easily under load - starting the rounding process.

I'd have a buddy who can use a rod, broomstick or whatever's handy to shove the socket firmlyl against the diff while you use the truck's bottle jack to lift on the cheater handle. I wouldn't worry about breaking the bolt off as in this application what's stuck is the head's flange rather than the threads. When threads stick, that's when the head twists off and creates a disaster.

FYI - in an emergency situation, you can get a threaded fitting for the drain and fill it that way by measuring how much goes in. The air will displace out the vent. I fill the lowe unit on my boat that way (from the bottom drain plug upwards) as it's required.

DougM

 

[Beowulf]

Peter,

We've had some good posts on how to remove stuck bolts. Search the archives as I can't remember all the suggestions but photoman was one of the guys that posted several unique suggestions.

The one that I remember is to use some sand in the 6-point socket. It helps prevent rounding of the bolt head and gives better sticktion.

If you can't find PB Blaster then pick up some Toyopeen from C-Dan or your local Toy store.

Good Luck!
-B-

 

[landtank]

if all else fails and you get desperate, replaced drain plug, jack up one tire off the ground, remove axle and fill the proper quantity of oil in the end of the axle, replace axle. At least this way you could give it more soak time and keep at it until it finally gives.



NOTE: if you have locking diffs be sure to lock it before axle removal.

 

[Rookie2]

if all else fails and you get desperate, replaced drain plug, jack up one tire off the ground, remove axle and fill the proper quantity of oil in the end of the axle, replace axle.

How about attaching a piece of 1/4" ID hose to the breather spout and pumping it in??
Those hand pumps are about $6 and come with a nozzle on the end that you can hook into the hose. Just measure out and pump in the right quantity. Pumps says "exactly one ounce per pump"...., not true.


Rookie2

 

[Beowulf]

>> NOTE: if you have locking diffs be sure to lock it before axle removal. <<

[mini-hijack]
I locked my rear diff last weekend to remove the axle. On re-install, the axle would NOT go back in until the diff was unlocked. What's up with that?
[/mini-hijack]

-B-

 

[GXO]

Weld a nut on the impact the lil bastich.

Replace with C-dan hex specials

 

[Junk]

I locked my rear diff last weekend to remove the axle. On re-install, the axle would NOT go back in until the diff was unlocked. What's up with that?
[/mini-hijack]

-B-

Search the archives

Never had that problem B, but mine are the pos arb.

 

[Beowulf]

Junk,

I *am* the archives.

-B-

 

[Junk]

Yup,
Based on age, you make a great archive going back to the 1600's

 

[Beowulf]

And the SEARCH feature is new and improved since I laid off the Bombay Sapphire.

-B-

 

[REDDER1]

I remember the first time that i tried to take my plugs out..they were all frozen up. I soaked it in PB..banged on it...and NO LUCK.

In the end..one of the simplest tips from this board helped me get them off.

PUT A LITTLE bit of SAND in the socket. Just enough for it to grip..and then use your superhuman TOYO "F this iron pig" Strength to crack it open.

The guy on this board (forgot who) told me about the "sand trick"..saved me a major headache.

Try it....it is cheap to try also.

later.
Joe

 

[REDDER1]

PS..For the record. My first time changing the diff fluid.. i STARTED with the FILL PLUG.

 

[cruisermaine]

Success! In the end I had to find a 6-point 24mm socket -not such an easy task. The only one I found was an impact type @ Sears. I was able to get the plug out after letting it soak overnight with PB Blaster and then using the bottle jack leverage trick. Gigantic sigh of relief..... tho I am still a bit sore from my deserved whuppin' for stupidly removing the drain plug first That plug was on so tight the crush washer was paper thin. The rear diff took more fluid than the service manual said -nearly 4 quarts ( I was expecting 3.5)? Is there a proper torque setting for the drain / fill plugs? I couldn't find it in the manual. I didn't have time to run the breather extension -will get to it this weekend. Thanks for the help.
Peter