Stock Location Mounted Powered Sub (bolt-on) and New Stereo

[PDoyle]

nice install. Where did you get the speaker? How much?

 

[thestallionq8]

I installed the SW10 version today and it fit fine after bending the bracket ends.

And, I was able use the stock wires from the subwoofer amp connector for the power, ground, remote power control and rear door speaker signals to work the Kenwood.

This woofer adds the right amount of adjustable bass to the cruiser!

I have some McMaster-Carr sound/vibration damping sheets coming for the outer walls.

The stock connector to the OEM woofer amp has:

12v = Gray
Gnd = White w/ Black
Remote on = Red w/ Black
Rt spkr + = Red
Rt spker - = White
Left spkr + = Black
Left spkr - = Yellow

Rich

Nicely done! I actually decided to go ahead with my drawer system project and install two Kenwood 10" shallow subs towards the end of the drawer system facing the 2nd row seats!

 

[F0RSAKEN]

Quick question... is there a place in the passenger side of the vehicle where someone could mount a second one of these powered subs? I like symetry....

 

[Nay]

Look at thugmusk's install, that is the way to do it from a mount perspective.

My RCA cords are Street Wires I think in a 15 foot length. They run around $30 at a car audio shop. Although as thugmusk pointed out, you can wire the sub with existing wiring if you don't want to mess with running it direct, but you'd have to use the remote for volume control since his setup is wired off the rear speakers.

Try it without Dynamat or equivalent and see if you like it. I think it is worth doing, and I am certain the doors are worth it, but I haven't done those yet.

I think I may remount mine as it shouldn't need to rest up against the body panel at all the way thugmusk mounted it.

FWIW, I think that you'll want to wire the remote if you listen to a variety of music. The fine tuning with a dial vs. a menu is really nice, and I find I use it every time I switch music type.

 

[Nay]

I installed the SW10 version today and it fit fine after bending the bracket ends.

And, I was able use the stock wires from the subwoofer amp connector for the power, ground, remote power control and rear door speaker signals to work the Kenwood.

This woofer adds the right amount of adjustable bass to the cruiser!

I have some McMaster-Carr sound/vibration damping sheets coming for the outer walls.

The stock connector to the OEM woofer amp has:

12v = Gray
Gnd = White w/ Black
Remote on = Red w/ Black
Rt spkr + = Red
Rt spker - = White
Left spkr + = Black
Left spkr - = Yellow

Rich

What a clean install. Interesting that your stock power was enough and mine was not. That is a true "stock mount" replacement, how could it easier? Excellent work . Is your enclosure even touching the body panel? Mine does (up against the Dynamat), and it looks like I could get a better setup following your approach as at a certain bass level I can get it to vibrate a bit even with the Dynamat.

It really is the right amount of bass to work with the door speaker size, glad you like it. I love my system now

 

[landtank]

This is on my list as soon as the weather warms a little and it's more comfortable outside. I'll have to check my EWD on the power supply to the factory sub and our needs.

 

[thugmusk]

Quick question... is there a place in the passenger side of the vehicle where someone could mount a second one of these powered subs? I like symetry....

That is the passenger side.

The DS looks doable, tight with the jack stuff, but doable.

Rich

 

[thugmusk]

What a clean install. Interesting that your stock power was enough and mine was not. That is a true "stock mount" replacement, how could it easier? Excellent work . Is your enclosure even touching the body panel? Mine does (up against the Dynamat), and it looks like I could get a better setup following your approach as at a certain bass level I can get it to vibrate a bit even with the Dynamat.

It really is the right amount of bass to work with the door speaker size, glad you like it. I love my system now

Thanks! Thanks for the tip that led me down this path.

There is about 3/4 inch distance between the top left corner of the speaker and the body panel. That is the closest point. The vertical spot I chose is close to where all 4 holes will not be a over a pinched spot. One is close.

Yes, the Kenwood works fine with my stock wiring, which I am glad of as I didn't plan to get intimate with the rear of the factory HU just yet.

Rich

 

[Nay]

Thanks! Thanks for the tip that led me down this path.

There is about 3/4 inch distance between the top left corner of the speaker and the door panel. That is the closest point. The vertical spot I chose is close to where all 4 holes will not be a over a pinched spot. One is close.

Yes, the Kenwood works fine with my stock wiring, which I am glad of as I didn't plan to get intimate with the rear of the factory HU just yet.

Rich

So it's not touching the metal panel and still has clearance to the plastic molding, correct? If so, that is absolutely the mount design everybody else should follow.

 

[vfrer]

I also just installed the SW-10 unit... I mounted it just as shown in the pics. No touching and no vibes/buzzing. I did run the main 12V up to the battery, the supplied harness is long enough to run under the carpet and up the driver side, though the firewall and to the battery. I used the switched 12V and speaker input from the original SW, grounded to the body, and ran the remote up and under center console. It is a nice touch and the system is nice and loud with pioneers all around too. No big thump but a nice full sound with the stock HU. Probably didn't need to do all the routing but I wanted a completely clean install and I didn't like the mismatch in wire gauge for the main 12V.

Got the SW-10 from amazon... $130 delivered.

Amazon.com: KENWOOD KSC-SW10 Dual 5X7 inch 150 Watts Powered Enclosed Subwoofer with Remote: Electronics

Thanks again to Mud!

 

['74 UA FJ]

You should swap in a new head unit. It makes TONS of difference in the sound.

 

[Nay]

You should swap in a new head unit. It makes TONS of difference in the sound.

Agreed. I had no idea I had good speakers until the head unit swap. Speakers I'd put @ 30% gain with stock unit, head unit gets you the remaining 70%.

 

['74 UA FJ]

The distortion at higher volumes with the stock unit is terrible. I figured that it was just my ipod's poor quality. I put in the new unit and there is zero distortion. The sound is amazingly clear.

 

[Nay]

Quick update - I switched my install to the way thugmusk did his, and that is definitely the correct way to mount it. One woofer lines up almost perfectly with the stock "cover" in the molding, and the second with the vent.

I also took the two pieces of foam that came with the sub and glued one to the back and another, after cutting it in half to reduce thickness, to the front. That way when the interior panel is back on there is a bit of compression with the foam, but no contact with plastic or metal.

The sound is definitely better than how I had mounted it - at higher volumes and certain frequencies I could get a bit of rattle. That is gone, and the bass seems tighter.

Now I just wish I had only spent $130 on the SW10 , that's unbelievable for the kick it gives the system.

 

[thugmusk]

Very cool Nay, glad it sounds better! Ya know...I wanted to mount the powered speaker towards the bottom to line up with that speaker hole, I didn't even notice the vent and when I finally did I said to hell with that idea.

My stock unit is still sounding pretty damn good, I guess I will get blown away when I finally swap it out for a more portable music friendly/DVD capable/satellite ready HU.

Rich

 

[sandcruiser]

Good call on the wiring back there. I did 8ga cable on my 60, with a fuse/relay block and was very happy. If I did it again, I'd look at maybe even going 4ga cable as I was running a compressor, backup lights, and a plug for the fridge... it starts adding up quickly. Just the other day, as I was jumping my truck, it occurred to me that running something really big like 2ga to the rear bumper would be pretty cool as you could jump someone else on the trail (or maybe get a jump) without having to be face to face.

UPS just showed up with mine - Techronics came through!

I was surprised at the completeness of the wiring harness included. Probably won't get to it this weekend though - I ordered some fuse blocks that haven't come yet. If I'm going to pull wire to the back of the truck, I'm going to pull some heavy stuff and put in a fuse block, small inverter and some 12V and 120V outlets back there.

 

[EricG]

Yea, I still haven't gotten to it
But I got some 8ga, I'm going to pull 2 of those to the back, one switched with the ignition, and the other always hot, for a fridge or such. That should be plenty, if I need to jump somebody on the trail, I'll just pull the battery!

Good call on the wiring back there. I did 8ga cable on my 60, with a fuse/relay block and was very happy. If I did it again, I'd look at maybe even going 4ga cable as I was running a compressor, backup lights, and a plug for the fridge... it starts adding up quickly. Just the other day, as I was jumping my truck, it occurred to me that running something really big like 2ga to the rear bumper would be pretty cool as you could jump someone else on the trail (or maybe get a jump) without having to be face to face.

 

[kovsky]

I went ahead and ordered it from amazon a few days ago ($120 from dealercost) and installed the sw10 along with the pioneers. Not real impressed with the results so I ordered a new head unit too (DEH-P5000UB). I hear nothing below about 70hz.. I think(hope) there will be significant improvements with the new head unit and hooking the 'sub' up directly with the RCA cord and wiring power directly from the battery. Otherwise I will have to spend way more coin with amps and a custom sub.

I have it connected and mounted just like thugmusk except for the ground which I connected to some bare metal. It sounds like there is a high pass filter connected upstream of those rear speakers to me... either that or just not enough power from that tiny wire.

 

[Wolvie]

Shopping tip if you're thinking of picking up the SW10 - I just ordered mine from etronics.com. Going directly to their site they charge shipping. But if you go to pricegrabber.com and search for kenwood sw10, the etronics.com listing comes up with free shipping. Clicking through from pricegrabber gives you free shipping at etronics.

Pretty cool if you wanna go the etronics route.

 

[ranma21]

For sound dampening material. Don't waste your money on Dynamat or any material sold by audio related site. I have found an alternative material long time ago for this matter. It is called peel & seal, you can get them at LOWES at roofing section. I do not think they have it at HOME DEPOT, unless they add this in their store. Was $13 for 6x25 inch roll. I think you can get bigger area roll from online roofing store too. It is exactly the same stuff. But way much cheaper, if you search around some car audio forum, you might see this info as well. I am ready to get more for my project too.

Just found the link to it:
6"x25' Roll Self-Stick Aluminum Faced