I didn't know it was that bad. Geez. Let us know if it holds oil 
Stevo's Unofficial Build Thread, FJ60 + FJ62 + FJ80 Axle = FJ68?
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I should know by tomorrow night.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
lol, thats insane, how did it get that bad?? bearings must be like hippies!!?!
Have a nice weekend, hopefully it's sealed now
Have a nice weekend, hopefully it's sealed now
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lol, thats insane, how did it get that bad?? bearings must be like hippies!!?!
Have a nice weekend, hopefully it's sealed now
The thing is there isn't much play in the shaft, unfortunately My new looking pulley refused to go on.
When it was welded up, the ID of the pulley warped so I need to get that fixed. I just need to wait until monday to throw it on the CMM at work.
I think a smurf had an accident on that thing.....
Too bad it didn't fit.
Washed Bronson yet? IH8MUD
Too bad it didn't fit.
Washed Bronson yet? IH8MUD
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If anyone has a spare pulley let me know, I might be interested.
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Nope, not washed yet. Maybe once its up and running again.
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Well last night I had another go at getting that pulley on. I managed to get the balancer on this time however in the process I hit it too hard and knocked it way off balance.
The pulley wobbles like crazy and still leaks so I went ahead and bought a new one. It should be getting here in a few days.
While in there and the crank was free, I thought it was a good idea to check those valves. They were way out of spec and were resulting in my major loss of power from the engine. During the test run of the truck, from which I realized that it still leaked, I noticed a large increase in power and acceleration so I am looking forward to being able to use that once this harmonic balancer situation gets handled.
The pulley wobbles like crazy and still leaks so I went ahead and bought a new one. It should be getting here in a few days.
While in there and the crank was free, I thought it was a good idea to check those valves. They were way out of spec and were resulting in my major loss of power from the engine. During the test run of the truck, from which I realized that it still leaked, I noticed a large increase in power and acceleration so I am looking forward to being able to use that once this harmonic balancer situation gets handled.
Yeah, I've got to adjust the valves as well. It's been on the list for a while, time to nut up and get it done.
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Its really not bad at all, all you need is some feeler gauges a screwdriver and a 12mm wrench. It probably took around a half hour to do it. Cylinder #6 is a pain to get at though.
Tough to find TDC?
I know the theory and how everything gets assembled, but I guess I want to be 100% sure that I'm not going to make them too tight and bend a pushrod or something.
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Trust me, if mine didn't bend a pushrod you should be fine, Finding TDC is the notch on the flywheel you use for timing.
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Since my pulley didn't come in today I decided to work on my sleeping/storage platform.
Here's what I came up with. Its a standard 2-drawer system with a platform on top.
The bottom drawer section is 41" wide by 40" deep, the platform on top of the storage area is 38" deep by 58 "wide. This platform is permanent.
I also have a sliding section which is 40" wide and rests right up against the seat when folded forward.
Here's what I came up with. Its a standard 2-drawer system with a platform on top.
The bottom drawer section is 41" wide by 40" deep, the platform on top of the storage area is 38" deep by 58 "wide. This platform is permanent.
I also have a sliding section which is 40" wide and rests right up against the seat when folded forward.
That is almost exactly what I have revised mine to look like. Similar height and dimensions. The portions extending out to the quarters will hinge up, that's the only real difference.
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Yeah, its a common setup. But is very functional.
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I got my new to me pulley in the mail today, unfortunately I have the flu and have no energy to work on the truck.
Hopefully by wednesday I'll have it installed plus I picked up some new struts for the rear hatch and I'm planning on doing a strut conversion for the hood too.
Hopefully by wednesday I'll have it installed plus I picked up some new struts for the rear hatch and I'm planning on doing a strut conversion for the hood too.
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I've been sick all week and finally got around to working on the truck again.
I managed to get the new pulley installed and unfortunately it still leaks oil.
It only leaks when I rev the engine up.
So I guess this means something is affecting my crankshaft and allowing enough play to let oil get past the seal. Would this be the main bearings? or rod bearings? I've never replaced bearings before how big of a deal is it? Can they be done with the motor on the truck? Some input would be greatly appreciated.
Also I ordered up a smittybuilt center console, unfortunately someone must have dropped it in the shipping process.
I just want to be able to drive my truck, and don't have the funds or the parts for a diesel swap right now.
I managed to get the new pulley installed and unfortunately it still leaks oil.
It only leaks when I rev the engine up.
So I guess this means something is affecting my crankshaft and allowing enough play to let oil get past the seal. Would this be the main bearings? or rod bearings? I've never replaced bearings before how big of a deal is it? Can they be done with the motor on the truck? Some input would be greatly appreciated.
Also I ordered up a smittybuilt center console, unfortunately someone must have dropped it in the shipping process.
I just want to be able to drive my truck, and don't have the funds or the parts for a diesel swap right now.
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Some pictures of the smitty console. Looks like I'll be giving summit a call.
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So I got to thinking today, my main issue seems to be the crankshaft has enough play to allow oil to get past the seal.
If I were to support the front of the shaft with a bearing it should stabilize the shaft right? The harmonic balancer already has two tapped holes so it shouldn't be too hard to attach a shaft to it and then make some sort of support bracket off of the frame.
Any input would be appreciated, all I want is a solution that will last me a couple months. Then i'll swap that diesel in.
If I were to support the front of the shaft with a bearing it should stabilize the shaft right? The harmonic balancer already has two tapped holes so it shouldn't be too hard to attach a shaft to it and then make some sort of support bracket off of the frame.
Any input would be appreciated, all I want is a solution that will last me a couple months. Then i'll swap that diesel in.
Why not just keep an eye on the oil level and keep filling it up? Throw a kitty litter box underneath when parking it.
If the bearings are worn enough to cause leakage I'd stay the mains are the culprit and not the rods, although the rods would be worn because of the mains. Your thrust bearing (one of the mains with shoulders on it to minimize fore/aft movement) could be out of spec. Bearings can be replaced in the rig by pulling the pan, popping the caps and slipping them out/in. Retorque to spec.
If the bearings are worn enough to cause leakage I'd stay the mains are the culprit and not the rods, although the rods would be worn because of the mains. Your thrust bearing (one of the mains with shoulders on it to minimize fore/aft movement) could be out of spec. Bearings can be replaced in the rig by pulling the pan, popping the caps and slipping them out/in. Retorque to spec.
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