Stevo's Unofficial Build Thread, FJ60 + FJ62 + FJ80 Axle = FJ68?

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So I took the cruiser out for some wheeling and noticed it was running a hot. I never adjusted the timing after doing the desmog. Could that be causing this?
What should the timing be set to on a desmogged engine?

I installed an aftermarket sensor just to be sure the stock gauge was correct and i turns out it was. I conveniently located it in my upper radiator hose.
The engine makes a pop or knocking sound when under load too. Its definitely something I need to figure out.
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On a desmogged engine, time it to best running condition.

They like more advance from what I've heard. Around 10 versus the stock 7. The best thing to do is get a distributor recurve. I say that and I have no idea what it means. I wish I knew, because then I could do one instead of having my 60 off the road for who knows how long waiting for someone to do it.

Merry Christmas :D
 
klinetime574 said:
On a desmogged engine, time it to best running condition.

They like more advance from what I've heard. Around 10 versus the stock 7. The best thing to do is get a distributor recurve. I say that and I have no idea what it means. I wish I knew, because then I could do one instead of having my 60 off the road for who knows how long waiting for someone to do it.

Merry Christmas :D
Click to expand...

Thanks for the timing advice, I have yet to do a timing adjustment on any vehicle so thats something I need to learn how to do. I'll see how it runs with the timing set to 10 compared to whatever it is set to now.
 
I just read over the hole thread after finding it accidentally looking for chevy 63 info and skimming trying to find what I was after then saw SOA then FF FZJ80 axle then started over at post 1 and read all of it. A few statements questions and maybe even helpfull thoughts.

1) It puts the white letters in or it gets the hose again. just my personal preferance but, I figured w/the rest of the rig murdered out......

2)hows the glare off the gloss black hood

3)I never saw a resolution to the popping out of low and my thoughts are either linkage timing as stated above causing only partial engegement then popping out or your rubber is binding and then popping out (I'm pretty sure theres a couple thats what she saids in there)

4)IIRC running hot is timing too advanced but, I could have that exactly backwards and the popping can be caused by ignition or valve timing.

5)Holy to Tall Toyota. You have given me some much more cr@p I wanna do to my junk but I need to hurry up and re assemble my motor and actually start driving my junk again b4 I worry about any of that.

6)I hate that you have access to all that space/those tools and I'm working in like 1/8th of a 2 car garage on my junk and am frequently held up by lack of tools and funding to by them.

7)Hurry up and drop that 5.9 in there already. I've been having inappropriate dreams about that swap as long as I've had my 60.

8)Your not married are you? that should be pretty self explanatory.

9)I liked the pic of the Ram full of tires it reminded me of when I first got my 60. When I bought it the tires were not great leading to a flat and me soon realizing that the PO did not believe a full sized spare was a requirement. I drove it home on 3 33's and a 31 then bagged the 35's off my old Sami until I found out the BS on the wheels didn't clear the front calipers so I drove it around 35's in the back and 33's up front tell I took a short drive to meet a fellow mudder and pick up some new to me tires I got 6 used 33x12.5 BFG muds and loaded them up in the back of my 60 plus the spare 35x12.5 that wouldnt fit on the stock hanger and the spare 33 may have even been in there so at least 7 if not 8 wheels/tires in the back. It always makes me laugh when i see people ask about putting the spare in the cargo area as i know you can put alot more tires back there than most would think.



anyway awsome build thanks for the inspiration and in post script to #8 if my wife files for a divoce after I start spending money on my rig likle theres no tomorrow your build thread may be sighted as one of the straws that broke the camels back.


all kidding aside nice job the thing looks awsome keep it up.
 
samibattlemaiden said:
I just read over the hole thread after finding it accidentally looking for chevy 63 info and skimming trying to find what I was after then saw SOA then FF FZJ80 axle then started over at post 1 and read all of it. A few statements questions and maybe even helpfull thoughts.

1) It puts the white letters in or it gets the hose again. just my personal preferance but, I figured w/the rest of the rig murdered out......

I sorta like the blue so I think its going to stay, it looks better in person .

2)hows the glare off the gloss black hood.

Not bad at all. I think that the tractor enamel might diffuse some of the light.

3)I never saw a resolution to the popping out of low and my thoughts are either linkage timing as stated above causing only partial engegement then popping out or your rubber is binding and then popping out (I'm pretty sure theres a couple thats what she saids in there)

4)IIRC running hot is timing too advanced but, I could have that exactly backwards and the popping can be caused by ignition or valve timing.

5)Holy to Tall Toyota. You have given me some much more cr@p I wanna do to my junk but I need to hurry up and re assemble my motor and actually start driving my junk again b4 I worry about any of that.

It is tall but extremely stable. The suspension flexes out nice and the shocks keep body roll to a minimum. I love it.

6)I hate that you have access to all that space/those tools and I'm working in like 1/8th of a 2 car garage on my junk and am frequently held up by lack of tools and funding to by them.

Being able to use the shop is one of the best gifts I've ever been given hands down.

7)Hurry up and drop that 5.9 in there already. I've been having inappropriate dreams about that swap as long as I've had my 60.

Its on the way. I am gathering parts to get the swap finished.

8)Your not married are you? that should be pretty self explanatory.

Hahaha, nope. Disposable income is great.

9)I liked the pic of the Ram full of tires it reminded me of when I first got my 60. When I bought it the tires were not great leading to a flat and me soon realizing that the PO did not believe a full sized spare was a requirement. I drove it home on 3 33's and a 31 then bagged the 35's off my old Sami until I found out the BS on the wheels didn't clear the front calipers so I drove it around 35's in the back and 33's up front tell I took a short drive to meet a fellow mudder and pick up some new to me tires I got 6 used 33x12.5 BFG muds and loaded them up in the back of my 60 plus the spare 35x12.5 that wouldnt fit on the stock hanger and the spare 33 may have even been in there so at least 7 if not 8 wheels/tires in the back. It always makes me laugh when i see people ask about putting the spare in the cargo area as i know you can put alot more tires back there than most would think.



anyway awsome build thanks for the inspiration and in post script to #8 if my wife files for a divoce after I start spending money on my rig likle theres no tomorrow your build thread may be sighted as one of the straws that broke the camels back.

If you do all of the work yourself, the price isn't too bad. I never totaled up what I spent on it. All I know is the most expensive item was the wheels and tires.


all kidding aside nice job the thing looks awsome keep it up.
Click to expand...

Stay tuned the diesel swap might come sooner than later. :D
 
don't worry I'll be here to poke you w/a stick every so offen to keep you on track :deadhorse:

closest emoticon i could find to a stick poking :meh:
 
I adjusted the timing tonight and took the truck out for a ride. Better power and response now that the timing was set to the stock level. I might advance it more once I get this overheating thing figured out.

Being that I now have two temperature sensors I kept a close eye on both of them.
Before when wheeling, both of the gauges would climb up together.
Today, the block temp went up to about 2/3rds of the stock gauge while the temp sensor installed in the upper radiator climbed to 220*

What else could be causing this large difference?
Also what else could be responsible for running so hot?
 
Dunno what the % to actual temp # difference would be (stock guage to rad hose guage and it's early but) how's your thermostat? Possibly you still have air in your system somewhere? I had a Cherokee for a while (I know hangs head in shame) and after adding a winch and bumper it started to run hot just due to marginal cooling system and new air dam in front of rad. I flushed tge system and replaced thermostat and had a hell of a time getting that stupid thing to burp. I don't know that I ever actually got all the air out of the system
 
samibattlemaiden said:
Dunno what the % to actual temp # difference would be (stock guage to rad hose guage and it's early but) how's your thermostat? Possibly you still have air in your system somewhere? I had a Cherokee for a while (I know hangs head in shame) and after adding a winch and bumper it started to run hot just due to marginal cooling system and new air dam in front of rad. I flushed tge system and replaced thermostat and had a hell of a time getting that stupid thing to burp. I don't know that I ever actually got all the air out of the system
Click to expand...

I'm thinking I might not have burped the system fully. I'm going to try and burp it a little better.

GLTHFJ60 said:
The top of the radiator is the inlet, right?
Click to expand...

Yeah, the hot coolant comes out from the motor through the upper rad hose.
 
A minor update, I burped the engine and replaced the top half of the fan shroud.
For the most part the engine seems pretty happy unless I get on it for a while then the heat spikes and it takes a while for the temp to drop.

I am going to try burping the system again and see if any more air is trapped in there.

I also started work on the Cummins. Pyro and boost gauges were installed so I could measure the baseline numbers for exhaust temp and boost.

I installed the pyro pre-turbo and at WOT I was pushing around 20 PSI boost and my temp was only at 700*F so there is plenty more room for fuel.

Now its time to modify for more fuel. And the best part about diesels is more fuel = more power.:D
 
For those interested in diesels I figured I might as well post what is on the way in terms of upgrades.

M&H M2 Fuel pin
M&H Dynamic timing spacer
Gillette Diesel 60MM Compressor upgrade
Pump Mods

And depending on how the turbo spools with the previously mentioned upgrades, a 16cm^2 exhaust housing. And maybe some headstuds if I go crazy with boost.

I'll be looking to end up right around 300Hp at the rear wheels pushing around 40Psi boost
 
So tonight I patched together a new exhaust for Bronson. It exits right before the spring hanger on the driver side. I forgot to take pictures of it so I'll be sure to do that later.

I also did a road test and it still seems very underpowered on the road in high gear. I need to check and adjust my valves hopefully that will help out. I also need to bump my timing a bit too. All I know is that I have the truck floored and I am at 65 MPH. It just doesn't want to go higher than 2500 RPM in 4th gear.

Another thing I noticed while pulling it into the shop was that there is now a considerable leak coming from the front of the engine. Are there any seals or gaskets that commonly fail at the front of the engine?
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dude who has been shooting at your diff? haha
 
Front main, timing cover, oil pan, side cover and valve cover gasket are the primary gaskets on the front of the motor. Clean it up and see which one it's coming from. Start from the top down.
 
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