Steering rack, drive shafts, shocks & headers oh my... (1 Viewer)

[Miljack]

Hi there,
I have a LOT of work on the cruiser I need to get done, as the title states the rack is done (puking fluid out the ends), drive shafts need attention, not sure if they are done, but need to be serviced/inspected.
The shocks are done, older Strutmaster AHC conversion and she's jigglin' like JLo. I have a set of Eibach shocks and rear springs to install, I have already previously installed stock Toyota standard front torsion bars. I think the Eibach kit is about a 2.5" lift (about what the Strutmaster does).
And, I have a set of D Thorley short tube headers to install to cure the cracked manifold that's on there now.

So, my question to the group, does this makes sense to do all at once? I would set it up so I have access to a lift to get this done, my plan was to break the motor mounts loose for the header work, does that also help with the rack replacement? If I do that, does it make sense to install a diff drop mount?
My truck is a southern girl and doesn't have rust issues, and the rear shocks have been out, do I need to plan on cutting the rear shocks out?

 

[2000UZJ]

I would vote to do it all at once. That's a lot of work on the front end, and a perfect chance to get everything off, and deep clean/refresh all the bits.

A majority of the items you are doing, require the items that you also need to R&R to be removed anyways.

 

[saucebox]

Steering rack and exhaust—absolutely crack the motor mounts loose to get those done. You have to watch out for pushing the fan into the shroud, and not going nuts and stretching electrical connectors, but both of those jobs are way easier with a little elevation.

Edit: couldn't spell loose.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Steering rack and exhaust—absolutely crack the motor mounts lose to get those done. You have to watch out for pushing the fan into the shroud, and not going nuts and stretching electrical connectors, but both of those jobs are way easier with a little elevation.

x2

 

[2001LC]

That is about the nicest garage I've seen. Or is that the family room!

I'd do all the front work and exhaust manifolds at the same time. Having FDS (AKA CV) out, aids in exhaust manifold work. I would also recondition the knuckles and wheel hubs at same time. Consider TRE, also LCA, and or ball joints and LCA bushings.

 

[Miljack]

That is about the nicest garage I've seen. Or is that the family room!

I'd do all the front work and exhaust manifolds at the same time. Having FDS (AKA CV) out, aids in exhaust manifold work. I would also recondition the knuckles and wheel hubs at same time. Consider TRE, also LCA, and or ball joints and LCA bushings.

Not my garage, my son took a pic in a friend's garage while he was there helping him out...

 

[Miljack]

another question, is there a top mount "lift" to support the engine, or should I plan on using a screw type jack for a lift?

 

[awesomeissquid]

another question, is there a top mount "lift" to support the engine, or should I plan on using a screw type jack for a lift?

The top of the engine has two hoist hooks that can be used to lift the engine. Most people will just use a board of wood against the oil pan and a floor jack to lift the engine slightly to improve access.

 

[2001LC]

I use bottle jack under front left lip of bell housing. When replacing Rack & pinion.

I've never had the need to lift engine, when replacing "OEM" exhaust manifold(s).

Having FDS (AKA CV) out, when working on either R&P or EXH Manifold, a plus, but not required.

 

[Skidoo]

For rear shocks a flexhead ratchet wrench will make short work of it. Don't remember the size you need, but it will not be cheap.

 

[saucebox]

22mm I think, and purchased one-by-one they're easier to stomach: Amazon product ASIN B08CKV5MFK
It's no Snap-on at that price but it should get the job done.