Steering Rack Bushing Replacement

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Lumpkin Hose Repair in Cumming, GA hooked me up with 5/8 and 3/8 hose today for under $10.
 
Keep them pics coming @camino70!!!

Thanks for the info on the large D bushing!!

So once you removed the bolts you were able to use a long enough screwdriver to go through the crossmember and reach the bushings on the rack to push them out?


Now for the tool used by @OregonLC.

Sorry for the poor sketch/drawing skills. Is this how the set up would be used????

View attachment 1211582

Then tighten the nut so that the bushing gets pushed in from above?

Or is there room to sandwich the bushing between x member and rack and use the above tool to squeeze the bushing in that way?

I'm sure you've figured this out by now, but the method is the inverse of what is shown; both head is at the bottom, nut goes on the top.

1) With only one washer down by the head, push the bolt up through the new bushing cap which is on top of the rack. Metal sleeve is on this bushing.

2) Get the nut started. Room for one washer at top.

3) Once the bushing gets started, drive the nut down until the bolt begins to bottom out above the rack.

4) Remove the nut, add washers to bottom, and repeat until fully seated.
 
I used threaded rod. Once I got the nut on up top, I used the ratchet on the button nut and it pulled everything down, no need to remove and add washers.
 
I got a few things accomplished today.
New fuel filter.
New front sway bar end links, old:
New:

New inner tie rod, old showing play:

New:
And now no more play, haven't driven it and haven't had it aligned yet, so...

New feed and return hoses for the power steering.
 
I took it for a ride around the block yesterday and there is a clunk turning out of the driveway. I think it sounds like the sway bar and not sure the bushings there on the links are compressed enough?
I didn't replace the D cushions, maybe should have too.
Any thoughts before I drive it to the alignment shop, I just replaced an inner tie rod.
 
I took it for a ride around the block yesterday and there is a clunk turning out of the driveway. I think it sounds like the sway bar and not sure the bushings there on the links are compressed enough?
I didn't replace the D cushions, maybe should have too.
Any thoughts before I drive it to the alignment shop, I just replaced an inner tie rod.

I can hear a slight clunk too after replacing the steering rack bushing. I am trying to figure this out myself. I have replaced the D bushing in sway bar, new endlinks, and new shocks all around maybe in the past 3K miles. I am getting the truck aligned today (maybe not ideal here) but current tires are old and worn.
 
I re-torqued after the spin around the block, raised and lowered the suspension and haven't heard anything since.
Got aligned this morning and I wasn't too far off :)
 
Without starting a new thread - wondering if my issue is steering rack bushings....cruiser has recently developed a steering wheel shimmy at highway speeds. Steers and seems to track straight, no visible leaks, just has the shimmy. Haven't put it on stands yet to further diagnose. Has 185k on rig.
 
Have you tried rotating tires? If you still have issues try 6-12 o'clock and 3-6 o'clock test. And jack the front wheels off the ground and check R&P for movement, you'll need an assistant for that.
 
Haven't rotated in a while, I'm due, it's been maybe 8k yikes. Just figured I'd inquire about the rack bushings since there's the shimmy that developed in last few months - I might just do them now that I've got 185k, I see the kit is only like $40. Also due for new shocks, rear tires are cupping tread, so ordered some OEM ones from Beno last week. I guess when you drive a Cruiser or Toyota in general you get into some deferred maintenance because they don't ever go in the shop much for actual breakage
 
I would think tires (balance, belt separation, etc) for a high speed shimmy over rack bushings.
 
^this^ if you feel the shimmy in front and rotate to back and feel it under your butt/seat, its the tire. Happened to me.
 
Hmm well I guess I'll rotate tires and see what happens. The rack bushings don't look that difficult. Maybe just as a PM item, I'll make a weekend out of swapping shocks, steering bushings and reboot CVs (another thing I've put off)
 
Couple pics from my LX whole process went pretty smooth...
Pushed from the bottom with a screwdriver to get the bushing started out then used a clip puller to pry it the rest of the way. Used the long bolt method to reinstall.

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My bushings look in relatively good shape at least similar to #chickeknob
Not expecting much given how they look. Its interesting that the two smaller OEM bushing have arrows on top and bottom which IMHO indicates direction on the install. Secondly on the rubber shafts notice that they have bump outs of extra rubber, the arrows align to where the shaft is indented. The replacements are uniform throughout.

Would be interested in how the arrows align in a replacement or new rack, right/left or front/back.

Took me 6.5 hours total to get it done. Struggled with getting the small bushings to align with each other.
WIN_20171119_11_33_49_Pro.jpg


WIN_20171119_11_35_04_Pro.jpg
 
Whiteline kit arrived, showing the split D:

Where is everyone purchasing the hoses to/from the power steering reservoir? I can find 3/8 transmission hose locally, but not 5/8. I don't see much choices online either. Both of these hoses are in pretty bad shape and I'd like to replace them while I'm here.
Thanks,
Ron

I just replaced all mine (and the pump and air control valve), and just went with the OEM ps suction hose (Toyota Land Cruiser P/s suction hose. Power steering reservoir hose. Pump, linkage, land - 4434860320 | Toyota Scion Parts Store, Clermont FL)

bulk p/s hose for the others is OK. You might also consider replacing the vacuum hose on the air valve with new- just bring the hose to your local parts store and show them the hose and tell them the type (air, trans/ps, etc) and they'll cut new for you.
 
I'm guessing this metal sleeve is not factory, a cheap fix maybe...?
Finished the job last night using the whiteline kit. Took the longest to insert the bushing sleeve into rubber already in rack. Ended up beveling the steel bushing a bit on both. Really helped me.

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The D bushing had a slice in it to go around the rack, no need to remove anything.

The other bushings just pushed out from the bottom using a screw driver through the cross member, not really sure how normal removal would be.


At this point in the game there is no way I'd consider lifting/jacking the engine. One of the bolts was harder to get to than the rest, but nothing bad. We'll see how I feel about that when I'm trying to install tomorrow.
Have a 2000 Land Cruiser with a loose power steering rack. Been looking at what has been written but have not found anything that looks like mine. Same is true for replacement parts. Anyone have a LC power steering bushing set up like mine? Where does one get the "right" parts?

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Whiteline # W13210
 

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