- Thread starter
- #21
I was thinking bearing issue would play all over, not just 3 and 9?
Steering Rack Bushing Replacement
- Thread starter camino70
- Start date
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I was thinking bearing issue would play all over, not just 3 and 9?
Yes and no
You could also have no play and have bearing issues.
Back to rack.
Sorry for the tangent.
You could also have no play and have bearing issues.
Back to rack.
Sorry for the tangent.
Bearing is normally 12 and 6 movement
- Thread starter
- #24
I appreciate the ideas. It's probably time to repack them anyway.
I did mine today in about 4 hr, but that includes about 30 min trying to figure out why the rack seems to not want to move after getting 3 bolts out - I didnt realize that there is one more bolt hidden on the PS side. Overall it is not bad, and I can feel the improvement when driving the car. The old bushings were not that bad, but they are worn and much softer compare to the new poly bushing. Weather was nice at 60s, so it was a great day to work outside.
It is probably doable in 3 hr if I have to do it again.
It is probably doable in 3 hr if I have to do it again.
Where are them pics???????????
Bctlex. Yes def 4 bolts on the rack. The 2 DS bolts protrude down from the x member. So to take off those bolts you used what tools? Did you need to hold the bolts from below and ratchet from above???
And how did you put the new bushings in? Did you devise the bolt, washers, and nut tool the way I drew it above???
Bctlex. Yes def 4 bolts on the rack. The 2 DS bolts protrude down from the x member. So to take off those bolts you used what tools? Did you need to hold the bolts from below and ratchet from above???
And how did you put the new bushings in? Did you devise the bolt, washers, and nut tool the way I drew it above???
- Thread starter
- #27
I used threaded rod, I could control the depth without removing and adding washers. There isn't much room on the rear and ratcheted the nut from the bottom for both front and rear.
I know it took me multiple days and I'm not done (still need to replace both lines on the reservoir), but I wasn't under the truck for more than two hours. I'm usually comparatively slow at wrenching.
I know it took me multiple days and I'm not done (still need to replace both lines on the reservoir), but I wasn't under the truck for more than two hours. I'm usually comparatively slow at wrenching.
- Thread starter
- #28
I used a short 19mm socket and breaker bar, no extensions on all four bolts. I used the closed end of a19mm wrench for the front nut and could only manage to use the open side for the rear nut, with the closed end out towards the drivers wheel.
The suction side is relatively low pressure and available at a reasonable price from many online OEM sources - less than $60 plus shipping, or probably better buy from one of the forum members that sell OEM parts. The pressure hose in OEM form is quite expensive (hundreds), but Amazon shows one for less than a hundred. Caveat: I haven't bought or used this hose so I have no idea how well it fits, how long it lasts, etc. Just found it and thought it might help.
I pretty much use the same tools which this member has here Replace steering rack bushings question
That picture save my ass big time because thats how I figure out there are 4 bolts instead of 3!!!
So step by step:
1. Loosen 4 bolts - 2 on driver side, 2 on passenger side . On the PS, I used long extensions, swivel adapter and breaker bar from top of the engine. Both of these bolt were really tight - so tight I thought I may break the extensions. I had crawled under a few days before and sprayed PB Blaster, not sure how much that helped. The DS bolts, I just use wrench to hold the nut on top, and use socket with ratchet on the bolt. I believe they all are 19mm.
2. Get all bushings out. I use a screwdriver and bottle jack to push the small bushings out.
3. Install the big bushing on PS - dont bolt it, just put it on. Will need to be able to move the rack when installing the DS bushings.
4. Install 2 small lower bushings - front and rear. What I did was just put them on, then screw in the bolt, so the rack would push these lower bushings in. They were squeezed between rack and cross member.
5. Front top bushing - install the metal sleeve into the top bushing, then install them both into the rack. Then use the "tool (bolt nut washer - just like your sketch above)" to push both into the rack. The top bushing and metal sleeve would go in a bit crooked/sideway. Once they are about half way in, I switch and use the OEM bolt, nut and washer to push them all the way. The OEM bolt is larger with less play so it will push them in straight.
6. I took a long break here, have lunch, rest, and take it easy for a bit because I know the rear top bushing is going to be PITA. The rear top bushing and metal sleeve probably took me 40 min to install. It is just very tight. This is the hardest part of the entire process.
7. Once I have both the front and rear small bushing installed, then I installed the bracket on the PS. Remember I have the bushings already on there on step 3.
The kit come with a package of grease, and I used it on all of the bushings, especially the small bushings.
All of the above was done with wheels on the ground. This is honestly not as bad as I thought it will be. I allocate 2 days to do this (Sat and Sun) just incase I get stuck.
Sorry no pic. I was covered in grime and grease. Valve covers been seeping oil, so the bottom part of the car is just covered with oil.
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- Thread starter
- #31
Thanks Julian,
I will fill her up as soon as I get hoses, there is a local hose repair shop that I am hoping can sell me a few feet without ends. I'll see where that gets me. I'm having a hard time understanding how the drivers steering arm can move in/out of the rack an inch without movement of the rack or the opposite arm without the inner tie rod being a problem? I found some inner tie rods online for around $20, not $260 from toyo (although I do love buying from beno) and preparing myself that this may be the problem. Any diagnosing advice you can provide, then potential removal advice?
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #32
This is with the drivers wheel in the air, passenger still on the ground (although the same with passenger in the air too). I placed the phone against the frame to try and stabilize it.
I'm gonna go with tie-rod.
But I went back to read your initial post.
You tackled the bushings because you saw movement on the rack.
What else was going on?
Was your truck pulling to one side??
Any noises while you were turning??
I ask because my LX makes a funky rumble when making a turn when I accelerate.
I'm chasing this issue.
As for my scenario I'm suspecting tie-rod or bearing. My steering is tight, but it does wander to the right at hwy speeds.
But I went back to read your initial post.
You tackled the bushings because you saw movement on the rack.
What else was going on?
Was your truck pulling to one side??
Any noises while you were turning??
I ask because my LX makes a funky rumble when making a turn when I accelerate.
I'm chasing this issue.
As for my scenario I'm suspecting tie-rod or bearing. My steering is tight, but it does wander to the right at hwy speeds.
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I would just take the gaitor(dust cover) off and have a look. You will see the movement in the ball socket if its the tie rod(track rod in uk). If it is only the one side then the tie rod is most likely the cause. Just confirm it by taking a look without the cover on, it wont take long I wouldnt of thought.
- Thread starter
- #35
You said gaitor earlier and I wasn't quite sure what it meant. Hopefully I'll get a few minutes this afternoon to check it out.
- Thread starter
- #36
The gaitor is zip tied on?
I had a difficult time holding the light, keeping phone stable and moving the wheel. This is the joint under the gator. The movement is in the wheel side, not the rack side.
I had a difficult time holding the light, keeping phone stable and moving the wheel. This is the joint under the gator. The movement is in the wheel side, not the rack side.
Looks like it's just the tie rod then,happy days. It looks like it's moving in and out of the socket on the rod.
- Thread starter
- #38
Yes, not sure of the part number but it is number 3 on the diagram.
- Thread starter
- #40
Thanks Julian! If you ever fly into/through Atlanta let me know, I owe you a few beers.
PN 45503-69015 is for #3, I should have included the numbers in the screenshot.
PN 45503-69015 is for #3, I should have included the numbers in the screenshot.
