Steering rack bushing options (1 Viewer)

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So i started hearing a faint click on the driver's side whenever i went over speed bumps on one side but not both, went to hih, heard some more clicking and since coming back it got worse, especially when bumping the drivers side with the wheel turned.

This past Friday i ended up doing the alternator brushes and while down there i saw what looked like rubber bits around the rack, basically the kind of mess an eraser makes when used. I also noticed the metal on the bushing was turned and not straight, which i recall seeing a post here about it being a telltale sign of worn bushings.

Yesterday, i had my dad turn the wheel while i looked under the truck and noticed right when you lock the wheel turning left and just as it makes the noise, the rack jerks to the side, I'll try to upload a video of it, and you can see a lot of movement in the rubber.

Now my research tells me Toyota, in their infinite wisdom, decided not to offer the bushings as a separate item.

Which brings me to my question, before i pull the trigger on a set of superpro poly bushings, is there a rubber alternative? Rack is dry, zero play, 175k on the truck.

Should i just pull the trigger? Not looking to replace the rack honestly.
 
Installed super pro ona. Trucks. Few months ago fit very nice and took the play out of the rack. They fit great easy install.

It was a 2000 and we did not remove the rack or even unbolt the engine mount or remove oil filter like many have suggested. 2 nd person and some prying they slide right in.
 
Installed Whiteline poly rack bushings in my '99 earlier this year. The rack was a 'new' OEM rack with less than 60k miles on it.

The OEM bushings looked fine but were about as firm as Play-Doh. The install was done without removing the rack, unbolting the motor mount or removing the oil filter. Used a floor jack to push the old bushings out. I did have to get creative with a long bolt to 'press in' the bushing right under the oil pan.
 
Febest offers rubber bushings. No experience with them.
 
Super Pro is a good option; their poly-material is claimed to be a better due primarily controlling quality from single point of production-made in Australia, not China. Whiteline is another good product, Ive used both on various other suspension components and no complaints with either. What do you like: Purple or Black?
 
Super Pro is a good option; their poly-material is claimed to be a better due primarily controlling quality from single point of production-made in Australia, not China. Whiteline is another good product, Ive used both on various other suspension components and no complaints with either. What do you like: Purple or Black?

Those are the two companies that I am looking at right now. If you were buying, which one do you think you would go with? Was there any downside to wheeling your vehicle with poly rack bushings?
 
Either brand is acceptable IMO, one may have a little different durometer ( softer/harder) than the other; something you might investigate if that matters to you.

I have the super pros sitting on the bench waiting to install-(waiting for cooler wrenching weather) so I cant directly answer your performance question. Anecdotally several here have commented that poly bushes are firmer and transmit some additional feedback thru the steering wheel. Others have believe that poly bushes might transmit vibes/shock through steering system as a whole accelerating wear to inner/outer TRE & balljoints but I can't confirm that. Others have retrofitted new OEM steering racks with poly prior to install so you can make up your mind as to what the best way to go. Which type: rubber or poly, I think really depends on how much you wheel, the type of terrain or trail, how you drive- fast or slow and your line choice all play a part in longevity of components and feedback. Rubber will require press fit which are more troublesome to replace and install. FWIW @2001LC has tested a few different types of rubber bushes, and the Febest didn't rate well, but he has found a source for decent rubber bushes should you decide to go that route.
 
Either brand is acceptable IMO, one may have a little different durometer ( softer/harder) than the other; something you might investigate if that matters to you.

I have the super pros sitting on the bench waiting to install-(waiting for cooler wrenching weather) so I cant directly answer your performance question. Anecdotally several here have commented that poly bushes are firmer and transmit some additional feedback thru the steering wheel. Others have believe that poly bushes might transmit vibes/shock through steering system as a whole accelerating wear to inner/outer TRE & balljoints but I can't confirm that. Others have retrofitted new OEM steering racks with poly prior to install so you can make up your mind as to what the best way to go. Which type: rubber or poly, I think really depends on how much you wheel, the type of terrain or trail, how you drive- fast or slow and your line choice all play a part in longevity of components and feedback. Rubber will require press fit which are more troublesome to replace and install. FWIW @2001LC has tested a few different types of rubber bushes, and the Febest didn't rate well, but he has found a source for decent rubber bushes should you decide to go that route.

I was talking with 2001LC about it when he was working on my AC. He does have a good source for the rubber bushes, but he said that on the early Cruisers it is difficult to press in without taking the rack out of the vehicle.

I know that you wheel quite a bit so I was really hoping that you had some experience! I believe that we have read a lot of the same threads. As I understand it, the poly bushings still have give, but just less than the rubber OEM. I suspect that many people who are talking about accelerated wear likely had parts that were approaching the end of the life cycle and the poly bushings finally caused the parts to go. At this point I will most likely go with the Whiteline bushings as they are easy to get.
 
@gungriffin - I did not notice any additional feedback or vibration through the steering wheel or chassis after installing the Whiteline poly bushings, on or off the road. The only difference was a more responsive steering wheel. With a new Toyota rack and rubber bushings, I felt like my 100 handled like a wet noodle on twisty roads. The Whileline bushings really tightened up the steering to the point I enjoy driving the 100 on 550 between Ouray and Silverton.
 
@gungriffin - I did not notice any additional feedback or vibration through the steering wheel or chassis after installing the Whiteline poly bushings, on or off the road. The only difference was a more responsive steering wheel. With a new Toyota rack and rubber bushings, I felt like my 100 handled like a wet noodle on twisty roads. The Whileline bushings really tightened up the steering to the point I enjoy driving the 100 on 550 between Ouray and Silverton.

Oh awesome. Thanks for the response. It is really helpful. This seals the deal for me. I am sitting on a steering rack with only about 40k miles that the stock Toyota bushings are starting to fail on. There were MANY trail miles though, but I will give the Whiteline bushings a try.

Did you install the bushings yourself? Any comment on the install process? I have found several threads and it sounds like a really long threaded bolt with a large washer makes it much easier to press the bushings in.
 
Installed Whiteline bushings a couple weeks ago. It's a bit harsh, like you'd expect from a poly, but defo tightened up the steering a bit. Or in other words, the small cracks in the road are now (more) pronounced through the steering wheel (as well). But I live in the country of sh*tty roads, so in the USA it might be a different story. Needless to say, any slop/play in other steering components gets amplified with the poly bushings. I'd go with rubber bushings next time to be on the comfy side, but to press those in I'm pretty sure the rack needs to come out.

My main advice is not to touch the steering wheel when the rack is unbolted. I've almost sent a protruding part of it through the oil pan without much effort.

The best strategy IMO is if your rack is okay but the bushings are shot:
1, Install whiteline (or superpro) polys.
2, Wait until the steering rack starts to leak and needs to be rebuilt/replaced (they all fail sooner or later)
3, Install new steering rack with rubber bushings
 
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I replaced my bushings with the Slee poly ones. I noticed a new firmness to the steering that ended up being more than i was used to and took them out. Great product but just not for me. I have a complete set includind the large "D" one. I also comes with one of the steel sleeves that has been chamfered for easier installation. I paid $67 shipped from Slee and will sell them for $45
Slee poly rack bushings.jpg
shipped to the Con USA.

Best regards
TLC Dan

509-385-1272
 
Oh awesome. Thanks for the response. It is really helpful. This seals the deal for me. I am sitting on a steering rack with only about 40k miles that the stock Toyota bushings are starting to fail on. There were MANY trail miles though, but I will give the Whiteline bushings a try.

Did you install the bushings yourself? Any comment on the install process? I have found several threads and it sounds like a really long threaded bolt with a large washer makes it much easier to press the bushings in.
Yes, I installed the bushings myself. The rear bushing below the oil pan is what will test your patience. You essentially need to put the lower 1/2 of the poly bushing in, start the sleeve, then start the upper 1/2 of the poly bushing on the sleeve then squeeze it all together.

This is how I managed to squeeze the bushing 1/2's together. A threaded rod would have been much easier, but a long bolt and a stack of washers works too.:rofl:
IMG_20190314_152909.jpg
 
Yes, I installed the bushings myself. The rear bushing below the oil pan is what will test your patience. You essentially need to put the lower 1/2 of the poly bushing in, start the sleeve, then start the upper 1/2 of the poly bushing on the sleeve then squeeze it all together.

This is how I managed to squeeze the bushing 1/2's together. A threaded rod would have been much easier, but a long bolt and a stack of washers works too.:rofl:
View attachment 2068133

Very nicely accomplished! Thank you for the photo and the pointers!
 
I've done a few 98-02 and 03-07 racks with ploy bushing. 3 hour job typically.

The 98-02 old bushing come out easy. As @87warrior stated; the rear DS is a test of patience going in with the top ploy half of bushing. Seems to add 45 minute to the job each time, just getting it seated properly. But the old bushing are so easy to remove, if they are worn, almost just fall out. The 03-07 is just the opposite. Hard to remove, easy to install. Worn or not.

Does the ploy stiffness reduce life of components. Well I'd say yes. But so do most suspension modes and heavy off road use. It's a trade off. It's also what some of the old-timers have told me is the case with any vehicle. They say: "Put polys in and you'll find out sooner rather than later if TRE and ball joint are any good" Would same be true if all new components. IMHO yes!. How many miles can one expect from front end components. I'd say 150K on medium build and or off road use, and 300K miles on all stock DD. This is based on inspections and replacements I've done.

As far as OE type (rubber), I do like them. As it gives factory feel which I like. They also, as factory intended, reduce shock to steering system. Seems less shock less wear is logical assumption!

I have only installed OE type (rubber) with steering rack on the bench. I don't know if it can be done with rack still in place. As, unlike the ploy kits, which are two piece (upper and lower halves in each mount). The OE, are one piece, so may not be enough room to get in. They need pressing in with more pressure than it takes with poly, depending on early or late model. I suppose it may be possible by lifting engine, like we do when swapping racks out. Someday we'll know! ;)

FWIW:
I once thought mounting bushing bad, if we just look to see if rack moved side to side as steering wheel turned while tires on ground.

This is not so! The rack is designed to move side to side with factory rubber bushing. The factory bushing are not only rubber. But have space in-between rubber and metal protion or cup of bushing. So excessive side to side movement, is only one of several indicators of bad bushing. Drive-ability is a big parts of indicators. On 03-07 if top washer of bushing has turned, this is another indicator bushing is shot. The more turn the worst they typically are.
 
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How much worse a job is replacing the whole rack vs just the bushings in a newer model?

My rack is good as far as I can tell, but at 230k my bushings are shot. Just wondering if it's worth replacing the bushings and waiting out the rack, or just biting the bullet preemptively.
 
Changing rack in any year 100 series is about the same. It's easier if DS front drive shaft is pulled. That way you can get easy access to input shaft. If input shaft is rust in, it can be a bear with DS FDS in the way. The thread on "how to", doesn't tell you that or when lifting engine, unbolt fan shroud first. Guys break fan shrouds all the time.

I like doing the rack replacement, when doing a full front end job. That's wheel bearings, knuckle service and front drive shafts R&R. Rebuild the stabilizer system at same time, and you'll think the rig just came off the show room floor. It handles so sweet. But if rack is good and just bushings are shot. Replace them and you can save a ton of cash. It will feel the same as new rack.

If the power steering fluid is babied all it's life, not leaking and rack is tight. Then swapping out bushing can buy you many years of like new steering.
 
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This is not so! The rack is designed to move side to side with factory rubber bushing. The factory bushing are not only rubber. But have space in-between rubber and metal protion or cup of bushing. So excessive side to side movement, is only one of several indicators of bad bushing. Drive-ability is a big parts of indicators. On 03-07 if cup of bushing has turned, is another indicator.

so mine does move side to side when at full lock and tires on the ground, but what got my attention is that the passenger side washer wasn't straight and turned counter clockwise. so you're saying turned washer is something else?
 

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