Starts, doesn’t start, starts again.

[Mighty Mouse]

I’ve had my ‘94 FZJ80 for a couple weeks now.

I’m not sure what’s going on so hoping someone with similar past issue may suggest how to proceed.

I get in, turn the key and it starts. Over and over. Then, a turn of the key and nothing happens. Wait 20-30 minutes and turn the key and it will start again. There is no logical pattern to describe that is repeatable.

When not starting, I turn the key and don’t hear the starter click. Just a dead key turn.

My guesses:

Starter and solenoid
Dirty connections on starter
Battery is newish
Could be Toyota Security system? Friend says an aftermarket radio is somehow related to the security system?????

Seller had a brand new starter included, in box, which leads me to suspect he was thinking starter, but he never disclosed having any starting issues.

Impossible to diagnose via a forum post, but as I start to build my knowledge around this Land Cruiser, any brainstorming from this community would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Fj80oregon]

Check your neutral safety switch NSS, I would read some threads on that. Lots of post about issues with it and solutions.

 

[Godwin]

Recently dealt with similar issues and ripping out the Toyota security system seems to have cured the problem. I say "seems" because we haven't had any no start problems crop up since. This may be a placebo effect but when starting the engine seems to crank over with a little more oomph and without hesitancy.

 

[raijinbu]

In your case, does your battery measure 12+volts when enginne is off? When the truck does start, does the battery measure 14+ volts?

I had a similar issue at one point. After a new battery, new Big 3 pos-neg cables, rebuild starter. I opted to replace the alternator. Replacing the alternator fixed it for me, this even though measuring voltage across it measured fine.

 

[Darkstar909]

Start small and easy. Battery terminals tight? Check the fusible link as well. Try starting it in neutral. Test your battery. Failing ignition switch might not get the click. Alt/Starter/NSS/Battery failing should at least have the solenoid click. Is this pretty intermittent or can you reproduce the no-start every time?

 

[GrassFedFarmer]

Recently dealt with similar issues and ripping out the Toyota security system seems to have cured the problem. I say "seems" because we haven't had any no start problems crop up since. This may be a placebo effect but when starting the engine seems to crank over with a little more oomph and without hesitancy.

This was 100% my issue. No clicking, no nothing. Just dead silence I ripped out that system and it's started solid every time. I had gone though everything else...new starter, new battery, new thingy with smaller wires that burns up if there is a short (cannot for the life of me remember what this is). Nothing worked until the Anti Theft System was removed.

Remove driver seat, remove box on floor under seat, remove dead pedal, follow lead under carpet up behind dash. The little red LED light came with it too... sort of miss that little guy. But I'd rather the rig start each time. No hesitation with me too...seems much quicker to start.

Geoff

 

[Malleus]

The first thing I do when I get a new 80 is remove that security system. It's more trouble than it's worth. You'll spend hours troubleshooting good circuits until you remove it.

If you feel you have to have a starter circuit interrupt, put it on the battery positive switch. That will keep all the honest people honest, which is all that security system is good for anyway.

 

[Devils Paw 80]

I had a similar problem with mine, difference being you didn't have to wait 20-30 minutes. Rather, it usually started right away on the second or third attempt immediately after the dead start. My security system had already been removed by a previous owner.
Since installing a new, larger starter the problem has not returned. My old starter appeared to be the original. After taking it apart it actually looks OK. Go figure.

 

[JoeCova]

Usually the issue is that the starter solenoid isn’t getting enough amps to activate caused by degradation of the wiring harness.

Most of us add a relay or solenoid.

94 delayed cranking. Starter, ignition switch, or other?

My issue was not the big (hot 12v) wire being corroded. It was signal wire from the ignition switch not being adequate sometimes. It could be the small wire itself, the switch or the 12v to the ignition switch. The Ford solenoid takes 12v directly from the battery to the solenoid switch...

forum.ih8mud.com

Check out my post #132 of my test cable. Basically with the key on, touch the starter solenoid and battery and if it cranks or fires it’s likely the wire harness not supplying enough amps.