Yes. Looks good. Did you get the carb idle problem fixed ?
Starts and runs only on choke.
- Thread starter BulletHead
- Start date
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BulletHead
Village Idiot
- Thread starter
- #82
no, still has the same issue. i wanted to verify that it wasnt being caused by a leaky HG. i still have to verify if its a vacuum issue.
Those numbers look good... what is important is that they are consistant with one another. They are on the low end but look consistant. Obviously not one cylinder is bad over the rest.
BulletHead
Village Idiot
- Thread starter
- #84
one thing i actually forgot to do is warm the engine up. i did the test early in the morning. i think those number would improve if i actually warmed the engine up first.
still trying to figure out where the vacuum leak is by squirting carb cleaner on vacuum hoses.
still trying to figure out where the vacuum leak is by squirting carb cleaner on vacuum hoses.
remember to do a search for hoses when it comes time to replace yours. I got some from McMaster Carr couple years back when i redid all the hoses on my 87. Probably going to do the same on the 84 when i desmog.
So Fusible link didn't help and you have tried some carb cleaner/seafoam - still doing it? (just in case).
GL!
rob
BulletHead
Village Idiot
- Thread starter
- #86
i tested the fusible link, it seems fine. i did spray some carb cleaner down the carb etc. how would seafoam help? just dump it in the carb to clean it?
I'm doubting this will fix your issue, but it sure is fun. Pour half a can of seafoam down the carb while revving the engine to keep it from dying. You will quickly know if you have ANY exhaust leaks (lots of white smoke) - so do outdoors. About 3/4 of the way through a half can I pour in enough to bog and kill the engine - let it sit for 5-10min and fire it back up.
You can also suck it in with a vac line to help get internals of carb - that may help, but not sure. My uncle is a hot rod builder and told me this trick years ago w/ my first cruiser (RIP). It worked really well and i have done it on each of mine since. A bit more pep, rev a bit quicker. Snake-oil? maybe. Still seems to work. I have heard some complain bout fouling plugs so typically will do it on old plugs or just before changing plugs.
GL! Again - shouldn't hurt and just cost you a can of seafoam. I put the other half in the gas (dries it, does other "stuff" - read can).
rob
Have you cleaned out your gas tank yet? Mine started doing this crap so I took off the fuel filter and blew out the line to the fuel tank and it ran fine again so i'm going to drop the tank and clean it out and see if its as filthy as i'm thinking. Blowing out the line fixed the problem immediatly and gave me an idea that it must be dirty back there.
Wile E Coyote
Out in the streets, they call it murder!
So how is the man with the patience of ten coming along with this epic gremlin?
BulletHead
Village Idiot
- Thread starter
- #90
i drive it once a week but with the AC on, otherwise it dies at idle. i havent found the leak in the hoses anywhere, i think the carb needs to be rebuilt.
ive sprayed a lot of carb cleaner hoping to clean things up but no effect. i really want to do the seafoam thing but not where i live, pretty thickly settled. ill have to drive out a few miles.
ive sprayed a lot of carb cleaner hoping to clean things up but no effect. i really want to do the seafoam thing but not where i live, pretty thickly settled. ill have to drive out a few miles.
The current state of gas we all use in the US is very poor. Many of the "Good" parts of our fuel have been removed to meet emissions requirements. Additives and ethanol are now used to make cleaner burning fuel.
The bad part of the new fuels are how they attack parts of our carbs and fuel systems. Ethanol attacks older types of rubber and plastic in the fuel system, ie., fuel lines and o-rings. It also attacks and corrodes certain metals as it absorbs water into the fuel.
But IMHO, the biggest problem is you can not store the new gas for any length of time before it goes bad. As the fuel evaporates, it leaves hard deposits that clog small passages in our fuel systems. It also goes stale and loses it proper burn properties. This results in pinging and other issues.
The "It only runs with the choke on" problem is a typical low speed circuit problem. Probably a result of a blocked passage. Spraying carb cleaner down the throat will do little, if anything to correct the problem. I bet a full carb overhaul is in order.
I do a lot more motorcycle fuel system work than LC's, but the idea's the same. We don't store gas for more than a couple of weeks. Drain all tanks and carbs if the are going to sit long enough to allow evaporation. It a lot easier to do this than rebuild/clean the carbs.
My 2 cents.
The bad part of the new fuels are how they attack parts of our carbs and fuel systems. Ethanol attacks older types of rubber and plastic in the fuel system, ie., fuel lines and o-rings. It also attacks and corrodes certain metals as it absorbs water into the fuel.
But IMHO, the biggest problem is you can not store the new gas for any length of time before it goes bad. As the fuel evaporates, it leaves hard deposits that clog small passages in our fuel systems. It also goes stale and loses it proper burn properties. This results in pinging and other issues.
The "It only runs with the choke on" problem is a typical low speed circuit problem. Probably a result of a blocked passage. Spraying carb cleaner down the throat will do little, if anything to correct the problem. I bet a full carb overhaul is in order.
I do a lot more motorcycle fuel system work than LC's, but the idea's the same. We don't store gas for more than a couple of weeks. Drain all tanks and carbs if the are going to sit long enough to allow evaporation. It a lot easier to do this than rebuild/clean the carbs.
My 2 cents.
Wile E Coyote
Out in the streets, they call it murder!
Amir, (I assume this is your name, sorry if I'm wrong) I did not review the whole thread, but didn't you replace the carb with a new or rebuilt one already?
BulletHead
Village Idiot
- Thread starter
- #93
i did replace it with one that was supposedly rebuilt some time ago. it was done by the previous owner, not professionally and he wasnt too confident of the rebuild.
Just thought I would put an end to this thread. I bought this 60 from Amir 2 weeks ago with full knowledge of the problem he was having (although I had not read this thread). I can understand now why he was having such a hard time with it. It turns out that it was suffering from most of the common causes of these symptoms:
1) leaking manifold gasket
2) badly rotted and leaking vacuum lines
3) the idle mixture was set as lean as it would go and the idle was set very low
I replaced the hoses and the manifold gasket and was disappointed when it still would not idle without the choke at the second detent. Thats when I got into adjusting the carb. Now it runs fine.
fin
1) leaking manifold gasket
2) badly rotted and leaking vacuum lines
3) the idle mixture was set as lean as it would go and the idle was set very low
I replaced the hoses and the manifold gasket and was disappointed when it still would not idle without the choke at the second detent. Thats when I got into adjusting the carb. Now it runs fine.
fin
BulletHead
Village Idiot
- Thread starter
- #95
nice man. im glad you got it to run like it should. let me know when you put it on the road, i wana see how the de-smog feels like on the road.
BulletHead
Village Idiot
- Thread starter
- #96
also, do you think the de-smog would have helped alleviate the issue?
thats reminds me, it could also have been the egr system causing that, but we will never know because I ripped off all the emissions equipment!
Accidentally of course...LOL
