Starts and runs only on choke.

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dont know if this helps.
jimc-approved.webp
0900823d80189084.webp
 
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i checked the green striped VTV and it looks like it may be blocked. blowing from the green striped side to the other is def blocked. but air seems to flow in the other direction.
 
they look familiar but I need to get under the hood to refresh my memory. VTVs usually have a check valve in them and a restricted passage way. That way you get a slow engagement and a quick release. I need to drive down and take a look at it. It's probably nothing to major to repair.
 
Rick, let me know when you will be in the area, weekdays are better for me after 5. weekends are busy. thanks.

i did bypass the VTV but that didnt have any affect either.
 
what exactly does this spring do attached to this part circled in the pic? i think it attaches to the linkage on the other side and sits horizontal. what would be the effect on the carb if this spring were missing on the carb?

475807649_aSYVo-M.jpg
 
i've had both "gunk" and FL blown issues. The FL is easy to spot (was in my case) - melted wire at connection - one of the 3. if you can gently tug on them and they don't come out - you're golden. I carry a spare now. Cdan - about 40$.

As for gunk... I finally fixed it after (new fuel filter, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and air filter) - by taking a spin (2-3mi) on the freeway and getting going 60-65 mph. I think whatever was blocking got knocked loose.

If you can get up to speed, this may be a quick check - who knows - it may work for you too. It wasn't intentional on my part, but it's been purring ever since. (it sat for 2 years).

GL!

rob
 
Jeeezus, God, Mandingo! Have you really had this problem since Oct of '07 ?!?

The part circled in the above pic is where the throttle return spring goes. Yes, you need it. Easy to get if you don't have one. Effect of not having one is probably hi idle.

But if you're still having the idle issue, and your carb has lots of miles on it, you need to remove it or pay someone to remove it and send it to Jim C. (fj40jim on this board) or Mark Algazy ( http://www.marksoffroad.net ) and have the carb rebuilt.

Did you ground the idle solenoid as suggested in the post?

If you need a pic of how to do that I will post one.

If you did that and it didn't fix it, then you probably have a blockage in the idle circuit which means the carb has to come apart and be cleaned. That's why it will run on the choke circuit, with lots of gas pouring in, but dies when choke is off and it's on idle circuit.

Carb rebuild done right is the fountain of youth for your truck.
 
Spike Strip said:
Jeeezus, God, Mandingo! Have you really had this problem since Oct of '07 ?!?

The part circled in the above pic is where the throttle return spring goes. Yes, you need it. Easy to get if you don't have one. Effect of not having one is probably hi idle.

But if you're still having the idle issue, and your carb has lots of miles on it, you need to remove it or pay someone to remove it and send it to Jim C. (fj40jim on this board) or Mark Algazy ( Marks Off Road Home Page ) and have the carb rebuilt.

Did you ground the idle solenoid as suggested in the post?

If you need a pic of how to do that I will post one.

If you did that and it didn't fix it, then you probably have a blockage in the idle circuit which means the carb has to come apart and be cleaned. That's why it will run on the choke circuit, with lots of gas pouring in, but dies when choke is off and it's on idle circuit.

Carb rebuild done right is the fountain of youth for your truck.
Click to expand...

id love to see a pic of the idle solenoid ground so that i can confirm i did it correctly. i did hear clicking when i grounded it.
 
sl33py said:
i've had both "gunk" and FL blown issues. The FL is easy to spot (was in my case) - melted wire at connection - one of the 3. if you can gently tug on them and they don't come out - you're golden. I carry a spare now. Cdan - about 40$.

As for gunk... I finally fixed it after (new fuel filter, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and air filter) - by taking a spin (2-3mi) on the freeway and getting going 60-65 mph. I think whatever was blocking got knocked loose.

If you can get up to speed, this may be a quick check - who knows - it may work for you too. It wasn't intentional on my part, but it's been purring ever since. (it sat for 2 years).

GL!

rob
Click to expand...

i dont think the FL is the issue, that was one of the first things i checked. im beginning to think it may be the HG as some of the posts suggest. i am running another carb (supposed to be rebuilt) and same issue exists.

ill have to do a compression test and post results.
 
As you can see in the pic, white w/black stripe is cut, add a crimp terminal, and grounded to carb body.

This will by-pass the "computer" ... FCS is what these wires are attached to.

Did you do a compression test ?
carb0001.webp
 
i did not cut the wire and ground it but rather grounded it thru the connector. it didnt make a difference. so i suppose that means my FCS is ok?

i will get to the compression test this weekend hopefully after charging the battery, forgot to unplug it and now its low on juice.
 
finally got around to doing the compression test. here are the results,


edit: results below using correct method.
 
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im not sure if i did the compression test correctly. this is what the guys at Autozone suggested.

take out 1 spark plug at a time, start and let it run for a few seconds. is this method acceptable? shouldnt the numbers be closer to 165 psi?
 
Yes, numbers should be higher at 165 per being very good.

Take out all the spark plugs and use the starter to crank the engine a couple of revolutions, per cyl.
 
do i need to warm the engine up before the test?
 
aMiR904 said:
finally got around to doing the compression test. here are the results,

1 - 110 psi
2 - 118 psi
3 - 120 psi
4 - 120 psi
5 - 120 psi
6 - 118 psi
Click to expand...
aMiR904 said:
shouldnt the numbers be closer to 165 psi?
Click to expand...
Those numbers are on the low end, but still near spec (min 114 psi). Bear in mind too that most compression gauges are not carefully calibrated and can be off quite a bit - pressure indicated does not necessarily = true pressure. The great news is your numbers across the board are very close to one another (no obviously bad cylinders).

Spike Strip said:
Take out all the spark plugs and use the starter to crank the engine a couple of revolutions, per cyl.
Click to expand...
That's closer to the method I've heard recommended only I go for a few more revs. I've also seen 2mbb and others recommend holding the throttle wide open to ensure no restriction of air.

Good luck:cheers:
Butt
 
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i used a loan-a-tool compression tester from autozone. the gauge did have a crack on it but i dont think it had an effect on the numbers. maybe ill buy one and try the method you guys are recommending.
 
Last edited:
bought a nice actron unit. re-did the compression test with the above directions, thanks all. here are the results. looks pretty good.

1 - 153 psi
2 - 147 psi
3 - 146 psi
4 - 145 psi
5 - 148 psi
6 - 149 psi
 
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