Starting my '77 after a 10 year break (1 Viewer)

[germaneighter]

I've been trying to start my 40 recently after working on refreshening it for the last 10 years. (still not done but getting closer) The last time it ran was in 2013. Since then I've replaced the cobbled-up wiring harness with a nice original. I have the ignition circuit hooked up but I'm not getting it to crank when using the ignition switch. I can start it if I set the switch to the "run" position and manually jump the starter with a screw driver. And it will not run if I turn the switch to the "off" position. I don't have the majority of the remaining harness connections installed. (I just made sure none of the connectors were in contact with anything they shouldn't be).

I'm running a ’81-’87 distributor, ’78-’80 igniter, and a 60 alternator.

I suspect it could be a ground wire in the harness that isn't connected and will investigate that tonight. Does anyone have any other ideas as to what is causing this condition?

Also, It's nice to be back on mud. It's been quite a while since I've been on or been able to work on the 40.

thanks

 

[CondeCruiser]

Switch could be bad.

 

[mattressking]

Switch could be bad.

Correct - do a quick continuity test on the switch plug under the dash. Feed the +12v wire with power and cycle the switch and see what terminals get/don't get +12v.

 

[45Dougal]

Correct - do a quick continuity test on the switch plug under the dash. Feed the +12v wire with power and cycle the switch and see what terminals get/don't get +12v.

If you can hot-wire it at the ignition connector then it's the switch.
Bridge between the White-blue (12v feed to the ignition switch) and the Black-white (start signal to the solenoid) and the starter should spin.

 

[germaneighter]

Thanks for the suggestions. I have the grand kids this week so going to look at it this weekend once the hurricane has passed...

 

[germaneighter]

I finally got to work on the 40 again. Turns out It was all due to the ammeter wires were not connected to the meter or to each other. I connected the wires to each other now the start, run, and stop circuitry is working as it should.

 

[germaneighter]

I have another question. While letting the engine idle (fast idle) I removed the neg battery cable to confirm the alternator was supplying current. The engine continued to run at approximately the same rpm but the exhaust note changed considerably. It went from a raspy tone with battery connected to a much more quiet tone with the battery disconnected. There is currently only about a 3' section of exhaust pipe and no muffler. What causes this tone change?

thanks

 

[Pighead]

What causes this tone change?

Weaker spark?

 

[45Dougal]

Weaker spark?

Different spark. Could be better or worse depending on your battery and alternator.
Which tone throws out more unburnt fuel?
I put my hand loose over the exhaust for a few seconds and then see what's on my palm afterwards - just don't get burnt.

 

[charliemeyer007]

You can trash parts of an electrical system by disconnecting/reconnecting the battery while the system is running, much saver to use a volt meter. Test the battery with everything turned off say 12.9 V - start the engine, test the battery again should read 13.5 to 14.4 V

 

[germaneighter]

At idle the battery voltage is around 12.5 V. Increasing RPMs up to around 2K there is no increase in voltage. But the spare, yellow wire (for charging light?) on Coolerman's adapter harness goes from 12.5 V to 13.7V with the same increase in RPMs.