started down a long rabbit hole today...t-case, clutch, flywheel, exhaust

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Just remove that CAT temp sensor (don't cut it!) - connector is under hand brake - and sell it. Your CAT doesn't have the port for it and it's not really needed on the new free-flow designs.

(I'll buy it :D)
 
finished screwing in the shifter boots, that was much more aggravating than I thought. I have thicker home carpet so tough to get it all in there. Hooked up the battery, started it up. Went to move and ......no brake pedal!

Look under the truck and see brake fluid leaking from the hard line at the rear axle. B/c the hand brake worked I decided to gently put into first and reverse and just moved it a foot or so. Everything with the clutch and gears seems fine. So now back on the lift and will tackle new brake line. Should be pretty easy just 2 10mm fittings and a new inverted flare 3/16 line. Looks like it rusted through where it mounts to the axle between the rear left wheel and the diff. There was so much caked on dirt with grease, it was hard to tell it had corroded.
 
Back on the road today. Runs and drives. 4wd light not coming on. Noticing a small rattle/vibration from the t case. But works in all gears 4h and 4L. I will double check the gear oil in the case tomorrow and make sure it's topped off and no leaks. Also will take a test light to the 4wd sensor connection to see if I have current coming in, maybe pull the sensor out and work it by hand to see if I can get it to come on.
 
How was your preload?
 
How was your preload?

I had some. Honestly. I didn't have a torque meter to measure inch lbs.. But had slight tension checking by hand, In other words got slightly stiffer after install of the output shaft bearing retainer. 13-21 inch lbs translates to about 1 to 1 1/2 ft lbs . I take this to mean barely snug. I did re-use my old shim. I did measure with a feeler gauge the spacing on the output shaft after installing the new bearing. It was at the tightest allowance. I didn't feel any axial play in the output shaft after install.
 
I suppose I can get some shims and a torque meter and do this again on the truck. I'm going to check to fluid first and make sure it's not low. I saw some roll out but not hard. I guess it's possible the tip of the quart container wasn't all the way up in there. I know I squeezed like 3 times (refilling it each time) on the quart container but it gets a bit messy. On filling the transmission I saw heavy flow come out and stuck my finger in the fill hole and the gear oil piled up on my finger so I know THAT was full.
 
I use a fish scale, and pull at 90* to the bolt if the bolt was at the end of a clock hand...watch close, cause it'll build up pressure, then break loose and spin. youre watching for the break-free pressure...
 
Tested the pre-load today. Took off both drive shafts and put the t-case in N, using a 50 lb digital fish scale that reads to the 100th of a lb, my readings were between 1.23 and 1.80 to get it moving around. . I never saw any break free pressure. readings stayed the same or went up upon continued movement. Turning about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I am hooking one of the studs on the companion flange. The book shows a torque meter on the companion flange nut w/out the companion flange mounted. Not sure if this would affect the results. Also the FSM says to measure "starting torque" I see this as the ft/lbs required to get it moving. I think I am in the ball park on pre-load but wished I had a better scale or torque meter.

Maybe I am just imagining this noise. Sounds like a quiet shhhhh of the bearings. I hadn't heard that type of noise before. I really didn't do that great a job tucking in my carpet when installing the shift boots. Maybe I'm just hearing more than normal because I have less insulation.

I did put the thrust washer notches in the case so I know that's not the issue.

Gear oil is full. No leaks.
 
Based on your concern for the noise, I am prodding to eliminate excessive free play of output bearings as a culprit. What does the book say the preload should be for a new bearing? Isn’t it more than 1.8 pounds? You may be ok there but I thought there should be more friction on a new bearing...
 
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if the radius of the companion flange was 12" then you would be correct. you have to figure, your pull is happening at only 1.5-2.5" of radius, so your multiplier cannot exceed that. at an indicated 1.8 pounds of pull with 2" radius, you're only applying 3.6 inch pound of friction to the bearing stack...make sense? I bet you need some shim.
 
if you end up shimming, bring preload to the upper end of the scale.
 
if the radius of the companion flange was 12" then you would be correct. you have to figure, your pull is happening at only 1.5-2.5" of radius, so your multiplier cannot exceed that. at an indicated 1.8 pounds of pull with 2" radius, you're only applying 3.6 inch pound of friction to the bearing stack...make sense? I bet you need some shim.

I was just converting the inch lb specs to ft lbs. I did not use a multiplier to account for pulling at a radius from the center. Let see if @orangefj45 can add some light on this.
 
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the pre-load is enough on my output shaft that i can't free wheel the companion flange. In other words I can't take my hand and throw or spin it fast to have it moving freely on it's own. It stops a soon as I let go. 1.08 to 1.78 is not a lot of force or tension.
 
right, but you mentioned reading 1.8# on your scale pulling the companion flange bolt; based on that, you have only loaded the stack to about 3.6 inch pounds. you need more friction on a new stack. and I agree that Georg can shed some light.
 

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