started down a long rabbit hole today...t-case, clutch, flywheel, exhaust

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Thought I would put my exhaust back together while waiting for the tap. Bought a new gasket, used a pry bar over the frame and pipe and under the notch on the block to pry the exhaust flange down, slipped the gasket in. Moved the pipe over to get the studs through the exhaust flange holes and only two came down through the holes. WTF...is my pipe bent? Finally got the third stud down through the hole but it was still about 1/2 inch out. I thought the nut would pull it down. The Nut stripped and the stud stripped and it still didn't seat. took my exhaust apart at the cat, disconnected at the egr, pulled the pipe off. The gasket/ring didn't seat somehow so it was partially out and got crushed. This obviously on the side where the flange didn't seat. Spent the rest of the day get this mess straight. Ended up welding the nut back on the stud and taking a oxy/acetylene torch to the manifold collector to get the studs out. cleaned up the manifold and exhaust pipe flange with wire wheels. Had to take a hammer to pipe to get it round where it comes through the flange. Back to the store for studs, nuts, gasket and exhaust clamps. I'll put it back together but not sure if it's going to seal. The flange on the pipe is worn out and doesn't look completely flat. Kinda bent up at the holes. Need to get to exhaust shop and have them cut and replace the flange on the pipe.
 
I've got new exhaust studs, nuts, gasket, clamps and a few short adapter pipes to fit the joint in front of the cat. My plan is to work from front to rear re-installing the exhaust. I will put the front pipe on and make sure it is flush to the manifold. Should be easier without trying to wrestle the entire exhaust as one piece. Next clamp the cat to the front pipe. I had bought some copper rtv but now I think I'll probably just do it dry. that stuff is messy and I wonder if it will just burn away causing more leaks? Suggestions?
 
use NO goo on exhaust joints or gaskets. NONE. fj62 is a tricky exhaust to build. even trickier under the truck, but it can be done. take your time. just tack it together for fitment, and when you pull sections to weld in, weld them slowly to not warp (and bend) the pipe, or they won't fit the same when you go to put them back on. HTH
 
Ok. I figured out why I was having such a hard time bolting up the exhaust flange. The motor tilted back after removing the transmission. The exhaust still being hooked up to the hangers put it in the wrong position. Or should I say the motor was in the wrong position for the exhaust to bolt to it. Today after bolting up the flange and front pipe separately from the rest of the exhaust, the rear of the front pipe was 8 inches lower than where it is supposed to be and well below the frame.. After I install the transmission and jack up the trans a little the motor will tilt forward to the correct position and the pipe will be back in place above the bottom of the frame.
 
Maybe this is why to FSM says to disc the exhaust upon removal of the trans/t-case. Because of the weight of the motor leaning and then being re-positioned could cause an exhaust leak?
 
ugh...the tap still hasn't showed. I emailed the company stating that it has been 7 days and It shouldn't take that long coming from NY to VA. They took my paypal funds on 1/23. It's now 1/30. I told them the link with tracking # they sent me was broke and didn't name the shipper. They simply answered " we will be re-shipping" with no explanation or new tracking #.

I then sent a second email with no response. I then went to there website looking at the faq's to see there policy on re-shipping wonder if by chance there policy is to just re-ship w/out investigating what happened in shipping. Somehow hoping my missing order would still show up at my door. While on there site an agent started to chat me. I told her what happened and that I needed the shipper so I could find out where the original order was. Also that I needed the tracking # for the re-shipped item. She sent me a link to Usps and said to put the tracking number in. I did and looks like usps never received the original tap. Meanwhile my truck sits on my buddy's lift taking up space in his shop. after the chat I get an email with the tracking # for the re-shipped tap. USPS tracking says it should be here by friday 2/2.
 
1/2" npt tap should be on any hardware store shelf for <$10. Online supply houses can bite, sometimes. Heck, I'da sent you one of mine if I'd known you still would be waiting. pm me an addy?
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
1/2" npt tap should be on any hardware store shelf for <$10. Online supply houses can bite, sometimes. Heck, I'da sent you one of mine if I'd known you still would be waiting. pm me an addy?
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Thanks for the offer. It'll just be a day or two now so I'll wait. I did see an old thread on here a guy had got the time-sert kit and was offering to install the time sert for 50.00 He was just trying to recoup some of his money. I though that was a good deal but he was several states away and wanted half cases sent to him. I was just a bit leery about sending it out.
 
NOTE: DON'T dis-assemble or try to assemble exhaust with the transmission out. See post 62 and 65 above.

I did check my engine mounts today. They are in good shape. That is the rubber is good. I can see the top metal plate separating from the rubber at the front of the mount...confirmation that the engine indeed is leaning back. All is tight at the bolts.
 
g-man said:
Thanks for the offer. It'll just be a day or two now so I'll wait. I did see an old thread on here a guy had got the time-sert kit and was offering to install the time sert for 50.00 He was just trying to recoup some of his money. I though that was a good deal but he was several states away and wanted half cases sent to him. I was just a bit leery about sending it out.
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if you had a spare case half, the timesert is the BEST fix short of tig welding a new bung onto the outside of the case. and you'd better be pretty good at burning alloys...that said, I am still using the 1/2" NPT brass plug @orangefj45 told me to do about 6 or 7 years ago. you just don't go pulling it out any more than you have to. and you don't drive it in with too much torque. other than that, it's prolly SOP for most of us.
 
some images of the progress, are my metal wire ties that go on the bolts in the right spot? Also on a side note, there is a slot in the side of the speedo housing that the retainer key goes in, book doesn't mention it but has to be lined up for speedo retainer bolt to go in the hole.

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g-man said:
One other question...how do you get the new shift boot back in? Does the metal ring come out of the housing?
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the rubber boot goes around the lip of the 2wd to 4wd shift shaft seal. I just pried the seal out a little and worked the boot around it. Then used a punch and a small hammer to work the seal back.
 
The sensor dropping down through the floor is the OEM cat temperature probe. It stuck in a little orrifice in the cat. If the cat got too hot, the emissions computer would bypass the air injection system to keep the cat from destroying itself.
 
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