Starlink RV roaming version, initial test (1 Viewer)
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It doesn’t work. It least not when I tried to power it.
Get the boondocker 12v to 48v converter:
boondocker.io
Get the boondocker 12v to 48v converter:
Dishy Dualie DC Power Supply
Pre-Order customers receive an instant 10% discount at checkout. The perfect solution for powering your Starlink™ Dishy terminal in remote locations. Designed specifically for use in RVs, cabins, or off-grid energy systems, this power supply allows you to run your Dishy and router on batteries...
boondocker.io
Edit: it doesn’t work with high performance version…sorry for the bad info.It doesn’t work. It least not when I tried to power it.
Get the boondocker 12v to 48v converter:
Dishy Dualie DC Power Supply
Pre-Order customers receive an instant 10% discount at checkout. The perfect solution for powering your Starlink™ Dishy terminal in remote locations. Designed specifically for use in RVs, cabins, or off-grid energy systems, this power supply allows you to run your Dishy and router on batteries...
Nothing prevents it from being used in motion, been doing it for 6+ months. If you want an easy option to make the dish very thin for mounting and using in motion. This has worked well for me:
Flat Mount Low Profile for Starlink Dishy
A low profile mount to attach your Starlink dish anywhere, including cars, trucks, RVs or homes. The entire mount with the dish is only 1.187 inches thick (31 mm) This mount cuts out extra parts, including the motor, to be as slim as possible. The case protects all sides of the dish with high...
star-mountsystems.com
You’ll have to chop your dish up but no way around that without buying their much more expensive in motion unit.
Flat in-motion has a dedicated PSU for dish and router. Regular one does not. I haven’t seen a hack for the flat in motion yet. I run it off my inverter, but it’s a power hog, so I shut off at night when not in use.
The regular dish can be be modified to run on a 12v—>54v upconverter. However, they keep changing if the regular can be used while moving. Last I heard, they disabled it… but it sounds like it might be back on
The regular dish can be be modified to run on a 12v—>54v upconverter. However, they keep changing if the regular can be used while moving. Last I heard, they disabled it… but it sounds like it might be back on
I run it off my inverter. The OEM inverter doesn't have enough watts to support it.
I got the other 48 volt inverter to convert it to run off the 12 volt but I have not switched that over yet. There is a little plug and voltage converter, plus a mini wifi router you can swap out to. No spicing of wire needed, just plug and play.
Nice, something like this was my plan.
Just got back from remote central Australian desert trip where we used Starlink roam for communications and internet, worked a treat, speeds around 170 mbps I had the router hard mounted on the cargo barrier powered by my Redarc 2000w inverter and the dish into a 3d printed mount on the roof rack.
prharper
GOLD Star
I built a DC power conversion kit last month to gain a little more efficiency when running the Starlink while traveling.
I wanted a quick way to run the Starlink from DC power and AC power depending on situation. This setup does the trick.
Parts required:
12v setup converter to 48v. I choose one that supports 8A 384w which is more than sufficient to run Starlink (heater disabled). I know others have reported success with lower wattage versions.
Amazon product ASIN B0B212GFM9
You will need a PoE injector. The Tycon Systems is a popular low cost option but requires some wiring mods. There are other options out there that don't require modifying & crimping cables.
Tycon Systems POE-INJ-1000-WT High PoE 4 Pair Injector
Amazon product ASIN B07BKV6NYD
Used the Starlink RJ45 adapter which allows you to retain use of the Starlink cable. (Order direct from Starlink)
Added a wireless router which replaces the AC powered Starlink router. It's powered via USB C connection. Lots of options but I choose this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B4ZSR2PX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This adapter powers the wireless router.
Quick Charge QC3.0 USB C Converter DC 12V/24V to 5V 3A USB Type-C Buck Charging Module Step Down Voltage Regulator Car Power Converter Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BRCRSRS3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Added small Anderson connectors for cigarette lighter plug connection (goes into rear panel) or can switch out and plug directly into Goal Zero Yeti.
Went on a 3 night camping trip a few weeks ago. The kit worked fine without any issues. Power converter never got hot. The DC power source connection is wired to a Switch Pro so can easily turn on/off as needed.
I wanted a quick way to run the Starlink from DC power and AC power depending on situation. This setup does the trick.
Parts required:
12v setup converter to 48v. I choose one that supports 8A 384w which is more than sufficient to run Starlink (heater disabled). I know others have reported success with lower wattage versions.
Amazon product ASIN B0B212GFM9
You will need a PoE injector. The Tycon Systems is a popular low cost option but requires some wiring mods. There are other options out there that don't require modifying & crimping cables.
Tycon Systems POE-INJ-1000-WT High PoE 4 Pair Injector
Amazon product ASIN B07BKV6NYD
Used the Starlink RJ45 adapter which allows you to retain use of the Starlink cable. (Order direct from Starlink)
Added a wireless router which replaces the AC powered Starlink router. It's powered via USB C connection. Lots of options but I choose this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B4ZSR2PX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This adapter powers the wireless router.
Quick Charge QC3.0 USB C Converter DC 12V/24V to 5V 3A USB Type-C Buck Charging Module Step Down Voltage Regulator Car Power Converter Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BRCRSRS3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Added small Anderson connectors for cigarette lighter plug connection (goes into rear panel) or can switch out and plug directly into Goal Zero Yeti.
Went on a 3 night camping trip a few weeks ago. The kit worked fine without any issues. Power converter never got hot. The DC power source connection is wired to a Switch Pro so can easily turn on/off as needed.
prharper
GOLD Star
After waiting several weeks, I finally received my Star Mount systems low profile dish mount. Went with the version with RJ45 connectors (you have to cut and crimp on the connectors). It comes with a modified port for the cable and waterproof RJ45 coupler.
Had to cut the backside off the dish. You can pay Star Mount $200 to do the same plus shipping and lead time. It wasn't too bad, used a Dremel with plastic cutting bit. Had to cut the Starlink cable (one inside the dish) and add RJ45 connection. Same for the long cable.
My plan is to mount the dish on my Prinsu roof rack and run the cable down the backside in to the interior. I don't plan to keep it up there full time, just when on trips. Tested it out today in the driveway and it worked, had 65 mbps down but I'm also getting throttled in my area.
Will have to find another use for the Alubox Starlink kit from Equipt
Gonna do some more crimping tonight. Will cut the 75' cable to allow for shorter connection from interior to roof and the ability to extend the length in the event the dish needs to be placed in a clear opening away from the truck if camping under trees.
Had to cut the backside off the dish. You can pay Star Mount $200 to do the same plus shipping and lead time. It wasn't too bad, used a Dremel with plastic cutting bit. Had to cut the Starlink cable (one inside the dish) and add RJ45 connection. Same for the long cable.
My plan is to mount the dish on my Prinsu roof rack and run the cable down the backside in to the interior. I don't plan to keep it up there full time, just when on trips. Tested it out today in the driveway and it worked, had 65 mbps down but I'm also getting throttled in my area.
Will have to find another use for the Alubox Starlink kit from Equipt
Gonna do some more crimping tonight. Will cut the 75' cable to allow for shorter connection from interior to roof and the ability to extend the length in the event the dish needs to be placed in a clear opening away from the truck if camping under trees.
prharper
GOLD Star
Temporarily mounted the Starlink to roof rack today. Ordered some security nuts and will add some rubber washers. Tested my crimp connections and all good.
I have a short cable that runs from back interior to roof. If needed, I can add the longer cable portion using the RJ45 coupler (it works too). The fleximount attachment from Star Mount is backordered - it allows mounting dish to original stand if needed
I may alter the cable routing to the interior. Could go thru a rear grommet behind the rear side bumper piece on either side
I have a short cable that runs from back interior to roof. If needed, I can add the longer cable portion using the RJ45 coupler (it works too). The fleximount attachment from Star Mount is backordered - it allows mounting dish to original stand if needed
I may alter the cable routing to the interior. Could go thru a rear grommet behind the rear side bumper piece on either side
Nice!
I've been looking around for some kind of outdoor weather proof router but have not found one. Been using a Linksys, but it is kind of clunky.
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prharper
GOLD Star
Starlink recently released v3 of their dish and router by invitation. The Gen 3 dish is slightly larger. The motors have been removed. Makes sense as more satellites are launched there is less of a need to constantly aim as in the past. However, they state you do manually need to aim and tilt. The app has been upgraded to assist with aiming.
The new router adds support for Wifi 6, tri-band and mesh network with improved range and speed.
Power consumption has increased. Gen 2 uses 50-75 watts. Gen 3 uses 75-100 watts. A Gen 3 “mini” is also expected to be released soon, and could offer DC power options for portable use.
For my needs, I don't see a need to upgrade to Gen 3 hardware. I like my modified flat panel v2 dish and the homegrown DC conversion kit which uses less power than a Gen 3. I replaced the Starlink router with one that is faster and smaller. The limiting factor for me is Starlink throttling my connection speed most of the time in my region.
The new router adds support for Wifi 6, tri-band and mesh network with improved range and speed.
Power consumption has increased. Gen 2 uses 50-75 watts. Gen 3 uses 75-100 watts. A Gen 3 “mini” is also expected to be released soon, and could offer DC power options for portable use.
For my needs, I don't see a need to upgrade to Gen 3 hardware. I like my modified flat panel v2 dish and the homegrown DC conversion kit which uses less power than a Gen 3. I replaced the Starlink router with one that is faster and smaller. The limiting factor for me is Starlink throttling my connection speed most of the time in my region.
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FYI I saw this case.. A small case instead of a board be nice.
www.harborfreight.com
1800 Weatherproof Protective Case, Small, Black
Amazing deals on this 1800 Weatherproof Protective Case Small at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
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swhme
SILVER Star
FWIW, I’m pulling 40-45W with my starlink + router in the starmount flat mount
In looking at the gen-3 spec's and pic's it seems they got rid of the motor, made the dish slightly larger, but the main improvement has been with the WiFi-6.
They are going to offer the WiFi-6 to gen-2 folks for $199. The WiFi-6 they said has better multi threading/tasking of requests.
Is there a way to get the Flat High Performance disk to run off of 12 volts like the Residential Gen'2?
The High Perforance dish come with components: The Dish which connects to a power supply; then the power supply plugs into a 110 volt outlet and a 3rd connection goes to the router, which also plugs in to a 110 volt outlet. So there are 2 connections to the 110 outlet, one from the power supply and a second from the router.
I can and have disconnected the router and run a supplied starlink cable from the power supply to my personal router, so that then removes the one 110 volt outlet needed, but I'm not sure how to replace/remove the power supply?
In Looking at AliExpress they have a POE with 48 volts and just needs a high wattage for the 48 volt input.
Any thoughts on this?
This is the star link supplied cable that removes the router:
They are going to offer the WiFi-6 to gen-2 folks for $199. The WiFi-6 they said has better multi threading/tasking of requests.
Is there a way to get the Flat High Performance disk to run off of 12 volts like the Residential Gen'2?
The High Perforance dish come with components: The Dish which connects to a power supply; then the power supply plugs into a 110 volt outlet and a 3rd connection goes to the router, which also plugs in to a 110 volt outlet. So there are 2 connections to the 110 outlet, one from the power supply and a second from the router.
I can and have disconnected the router and run a supplied starlink cable from the power supply to my personal router, so that then removes the one 110 volt outlet needed, but I'm not sure how to replace/remove the power supply?
In Looking at AliExpress they have a POE with 48 volts and just needs a high wattage for the 48 volt input.
Any thoughts on this?
This is the star link supplied cable that removes the router:
