SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (2 Viewers)

[hoot504]

Here's a possibly stupid question as my understanding of the exhaust system is shall we say limited. I was changing out my rear diff oil today and noticed a leak from some of the piping. Based on my workshop manual this is right behind the center exhaust pipe assembly.

I wiped away the leak, washed the truck and then went on a 15 minute highway drive. The second photo (from the other side of the vehicle) is from after this drive... looked pretty dry to me. Anyone know what's up with this?

 

[Zill]

Here's a possibly stupid question as my understanding of the exhaust system is shall we say limited. I was changing out my rear diff oil today and noticed a leak from some of the piping. Based on my workshop manual this is right behind the center exhaust pipe assembly.

I wiped away the leak, washed the truck and then went on a 15 minute highway drive. The second photo (from the other side of the vehicle) is from after this drive... looked pretty dry to me. Anyone know what's up with this?

View attachment 3879143

View attachment 3879144

This is normal, it’s simply condensation from your exhaust leaking out.

As long as you aren’t hearing a ticking sound while the engine is running (indicating an exhaust leak), your exhaust is working as intended.

 

[Heckraiser]

Also could be grease getting flung off your u-joint onto the exhaust. Also normal.

 

[teejnut]

Planning to do the 2016+ front brake upgrade soon. Would like to get new hardware (shim and anti rattle). I believe I just need one of each of these part numbers to do both front, correct?

0494760140
0494560080

 

[W4632018]

New SQOD:

Do US Spec V8 gasoline engines suffer from the “dusting” engine issue? Saw it mentioned in an Australian YouTube video.

 

[lx200inAR]

Planning to do the 2016+ front brake upgrade soon. Would like to get new hardware (shim and anti rattle). I believe I just need one of each of these part numbers to do both front, correct?

0494760140
0494560080

Based on pictures online, that looks correct. One of each covers front right and left. If you are buying new pads, there is a good chance they are included with your pads. The anti rattle clips will be included and the shims are integrated into the pad itself.

 

[teejnut]

Based on pictures online, that looks correct. One of each covers front right and left. If you are buying new pads, there is a good chance they are included with your pads. The anti rattle clips will be included and the shims are integrated into the pad itself.

I didn't see the shims or clips with brand new oem brake pads (04465-60280).

I just did my rears this weekend and it was the same. I just re-used my old hardware for the rears.

 

[hoot504]

New SQOD:

Do US Spec V8 gasoline engines suffer from the “dusting” engine issue? Saw it mentioned in an Australian YouTube video.

I think we watched the same video and I wondered that myself. Personally on my 2019 I've never seen anything past my engine air filter.

 

[lx200inAR]

I didn't see the shims or clips with brand new oem brake pads (04465-60280).

I just did my rears this weekend and it was the same. I just re-used my old hardware for the rears.

Ah, yeah, if you are doing OEM pads then probably not going to come with. I think i bought TRD pads for the front and the centric equivalent for the rear....or possibly got all TRD. I can't remember exactly, but they came with them.

 

[bloc]

Also could be grease getting flung off your u-joint onto the exhaust. Also normal.

This.

New SQOD:

Do US Spec V8 gasoline engines suffer from the “dusting” engine issue? Saw it mentioned in an Australian YouTube video.

They can, but generally not nearly as bad. It seems Toyota’s prediction of how much the airbox can flex over time wasn’t accurate, leading to poor contact with the seal. I suspect climate has something to do with this. Based on prior writing here.. a few US rigs get it, many don’t, even with high miles.

Easy to check.. just open the airbox and see if there is any appreciable dust stuck to the insides of the clean side of it. Mine had an infinitesimally small amount in there. Applied K&N air filter grease to the air filter gasket after cleaning up that dust, hasn’t returned.

 

[W4632018]

This.



They can, but generally not nearly as bad. It seems Toyota’s prediction of how much the airbox can flex over time wasn’t accurate, leading to poor contact with the seal. I suspect climate has something to do with this. Based on prior writing here.. a few US rigs get it, many don’t, even with high miles.

Easy to check.. just open the airbox and see if there is any appreciable dust stuck to the insides of the clean side of it. Mine had an infinitesimally small amount in there. Applied K&N air filter grease to the air filter gasket after cleaning up that dust, hasn’t returned.

That’s really good advice

 

[Sandroad]

Planning to do the 2016+ front brake upgrade soon. Would like to get new hardware (shim and anti rattle). I believe I just need one of each of these part numbers to do both front, correct?

0494760140
0494560080

See post #6 in the FAQs for a good write up on brake job parts.

FAQ - 200-series FAQ for Modifications, Repairs and Build Threads. Great place for new users to start

The Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) for the 200/LX570 series tech section continues to be a work in progress. The goal is to have links in the below to other threads and tech articles. By having these linked, instead of pasting the text, the threads will remain live. The live threads can...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Nothinghead]

They are oem bars (PT278-60180) but from what I can tell, the key is not numbered separately. Other Lexus and Toyota models do have separate numbers for similar keys but I don’t know if they’ll fit. I guess I’m taking a trip to the dealer.

This is listed for the RAV4 but fits the LX bars the same.

 

[wjcunningham3]

Help - I should have been thinking about this the entire trip!!!

After 15 wicked days in New Zealand, I am staying one km from a Toyota dealership in Auckland. I have a 2015 LC. Is there anything that I should check to see if the parts department has in stock that I can’t easily get in my home state of Texas?

Pic only for lust and attention - a LC300 and LX together on the side of the road.

 

[pvchaitanya]

Quick stupid question:

One of my TPMS sensors died. It would take forever to register on the dash. I would get 4 pressures reading, and the 5th would say CHECKING

But now I just have the "Check Tire Pressure System" message on the dash all the time.

Questions:
Can I find and replace just the one that died?
Do I need to go OEM here?
I should probably just replace all 5, right?

thats how it starts when the battery is loosing power in TPMS. You may be lucky that the dead TPMS may become active again in warm weather.
You can identify the TPMS by deflating tire and see which one doesn't show tire pressure change in the dash and replace it with OEM or after market cloning with the same TPMS id you want to replace. search on forum you will find lot of threads on this topic. If your tires are close to be replaced like in next 6 months. I would suggest you just live with one dead TPMS until you actually replace tires and all 4(or 5) TPMS at once. Its quite a work to replace TPMS from tire and shops want to change for balancing/mounting etc. If it matters, I changed once and then another just dies so changed another and 3rd once starts getting weak. message is if you are changing one, then others ones are not too far behind to die.

 

[bloc]

Collective brains...


Approaching 220k miles. Zero hints of steering related issues.. but I'm to the point that I wonder about tie rod and tie rod end health. Considering doing TREs and Tie Rods via the current parts sale. Total for those parts would be about $600.. the inners are 250 each, outers 50.

I gave a half-hearted attempt at separating the TRE from the knuckle to see how loose the associated ball-joints are, but they are in there pretty good and I didn't want to risk damage to the threaded portion until I was ready to really do the job.

Well here's the thing.. a whole steering rack including inners and outers is $661 on the sale. At that price I'd have to wonder if it is rebuilt vs factory-new..

But for only an extra $60 and the effort of putting it in.. a whole new steering rack?

Am I nuts for considering this? Or just leave the steering alone (tracks straight.. and I will be installing new LCA's for the fresh bushings and lower ball-joints) until it actually starts giving signs of being tired, and wait for a sale then?

Another option is do the outers because they are relatively affordable.

Running stock-sized tires and the vast majority of my miles are on the road. for what it's worth.

 

[lx200inAR]

Collective brains...


Approaching 220k miles. Zero hints of steering related issues.. but I'm to the point that I wonder about tie rod and tie rod end health. Considering doing TREs and Tie Rods via the current parts sale. Total for those parts would be about $600.. the inners are 250 each, outers 50.

I gave a half-hearted attempt at separating the TRE from the knuckle to see how loose the associated ball-joints are, but they are in there pretty good and I didn't want to risk damage to the threaded portion until I was ready to really do the job.

Well here's the thing.. a whole steering rack including inners and outers is $661 on the sale. At that price I'd have to wonder if it is rebuilt vs factory-new..

But for only an extra $60 and the effort of putting it in.. a whole new steering rack?

Am I nuts for considering this? Or just leave the steering alone (tracks straight.. and I will be installing new LCA's for the fresh bushings and lower ball-joints) until it actually starts giving signs of being tired, and wait for a sale then?

Another option is do the outers because they are relatively affordable.

Running stock-sized tires and the vast majority of my miles are on the road. for what it's worth.

I did OEM outers and 555 inners. This saves a huge chuck of the 600. (Cruiser Outfitters has kits readily available, Partsouq actually has the same 555 inners a little cheaper, but I’ll let you be the judge on whether paying a little extra to support Cruiser Outfitters has its benefits or not).

I don’t know if the ball joint on the inner is better or as good as the OEM, but I can say I preferred the machining on the 555 part compared to what I assume was OEM that I took off my truck. I did outer TREs and boots, jam nuts and clamps from Partsouq and the 555 inners from Cruiser outfitters. If they are good enough for them I suppose they are good enough for me.

But also can’t argue such a good deal on the steering rack. Probably not the worst idea to order one to keep on the shelf. Maybe worth buying the whole rack while it’s cheap and available and steal the tie rod parts for this job.

 

[lx200inAR]

Also.. it’s crazy how Toyota parts work. I was looking at just buying new rear calipers since they are so cheap on the sale. Individual parts of the caliper add up to about 5x the price of an entire caliper.

 

[gray rider]

Any guesses as to what an otherwise excellent condition 2014 LC (145,000 miles) with a swapped in JDM engine would be worth? "Asking for a friend"......

 

[gasman4u]

Any guesses as to what an otherwise excellent condition 2014 LC (145,000 miles) with a swapped in JDM engine would be worth? "Asking for a friend"......

Not a 2016+. You’re not interested…