SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (4 Viewers)

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Your ground (negative) lead should be ok like it is, but assuming the positive is uncovered I think you should be able to get something 3D printed that will cover it nicely. It's not rubber/soft but should work for safety/fire/arc prevention. If I could get my 3d printer online, I'd make you one and just get you to send me a shipping label. HTH.
That would be wonderful. Thanks! Let me know if you get your printer online.

It just seems odd that nobody already makes a cover that would work for two wires. My situation can’t be unique.

And yes, I’m really interested in the positive terminal. But I have corrosion buildup on that one and didn’t want to get the conversion off-topic if people saw this corrosion. The positive terminal has the exact same two wire setup.
 
Anyone ever replace their o2 sensors, MAF sensors, Air/fuel sensors just because they hit 100k/150k/200k? I'm getting close to 100k and was strongly considering it...until I saw the cost. TIA.
I did, yep. Minor mpg improvement. Minor engine smoothness improvement
I suggest rock auto for the parts, good prices on denso and hitachi there, and authenticity is not in doubt.
I got some fake coils somehow (looked identical, but a couple failed pretty quick), the authentic denso equivalent (Toyota pn sanded off) working good.
 
Has anybody seen a silicone (or rubber) battery terminal protector that will work with a two wire set-up like in the picture below?

All I am finding is protectors that allow for one wire of varying sizes. I suspect I’m using the wrong search terms but can’t think of what else to use.

View attachment 3877233

Something like this maybe? Link:Military style battery terminal covers on Amazon

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HTH
 
Honestly I’ve previously done hours of washboards on my AT3W falken tires as low as 18 PSI. I didn’t really know to check them or how (still not sure how to tell if it’s too hot) until reading some threads here. The other issue is that these are the stock dunlop tries so I also fear they may not dissipate heat as well?

I wouldn't hesitate to do 18 PSI washboards at or higher than 40 mph. Best cross check is to feel the sidewall after a bit. If they are so hot that you can't hold your hand on them, time to back off a bit or add air. More than likely they will just be warm. Even better is to have a non-contact thermometer to stay under about 170°F while leaving some margin.

Other factors to consider is just how heavy you are. If you're overlanding with a super heavy rig, or really high ambient temps, etc. may want to back off a bit. If on stock sized tires, you do want to watch for pinch flats for those sneaker rocks peeking out of the dirt.

Also consider that shocks get hot. Airing down less may just drive all the work to the shocks where they can definitely overheat and blow out too.
 
I did, yep. Minor mpg improvement. Minor engine smoothness improvement
I suggest rock auto for the parts, good prices on denso and hitachi there, and authenticity is not in doubt.
I got some fake coils somehow (looked identical, but a couple failed pretty quick), the authentic denso equivalent (Toyota pn sanded off) working good.
How many miles did you go before replacing? Did you do them all at once?
 
Oh wow. Thanks. I think those would work.
$32 is high, but I guess that’s becuase that item comes with all that other stuff.

But I appreciate the lead. Hopefully I can use it to find the covers without the other gubbins. But if not… I think it would ultimately still be worth the $32 to me to bite the bullet and get the covers. Thank you.
 
Oh wow. Thanks. I think those would work.
$32 is high, but I guess that’s becuase that item comes with all that other stuff.

But I appreciate the lead. Hopefully I can use it to find the covers without the other gubbins. But if not… I think it would ultimately still be worth the $32 to me to bite the bullet and get the covers. Thank you.

And boom!

Thanks!!!
I would have never thought to search via “military spec.”
 
Honestly I’ve previously done hours of washboards on my AT3W falken tires as low as 18 PSI. I didn’t really know to check them or how (still not sure how to tell if it’s too hot) until reading some threads here. The other issue is that these are the stock dunlop tries so I also fear they may not dissipate heat as well?
I ran my Michelin LTX MSII at 18 PSI for the full week at LCDC in Ouray last year. Think I only aired up once for the week. You will be fine.
 
Could you just monitor the tire pressure (from the gauge cluster)? If it gets hot wouldn't the pressure go up by a decent amount? I assumed this would be the case or am I wrong?
 
Could you just monitor the tire pressure (from the gauge cluster)? If it gets hot wouldn't the pressure go up by a decent amount? I assumed this would be the case or am I wrong?
Last year I drove about ten miles at 50 mphoutside Ouray on AT3w’s with 20 psi. They went up about 2 psi but it was cool out and the tires seemed fine temperature wise.
 
View attachment 3877758OBD fusion will give you temps and pressures. At least on my 17 LX it does
I knew Techstream did this but wasn't aware the bluetooth OBD adapters had the capability.. I'll look into it with my 2013

Edit: I did just notice yours is reporting the position of each transmitter, which I'm 99% sure the pre-2016 vehicles don't. But I'll dig into it either way.
 
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Does anyone else's rear tailgate flex quite a bit when sitting on it? Mine flexes down several degrees and is not exactly confidence inspiring when sitting on it. I don't quite feel like I'm actually going to break it by sitting on it but it is not great. Is this something everyone is used to? The tailgate on my 80 series had very little to no flex when sitting on it. The black plastic that the tailgate wires mount to seems to flex down/in slightly.

I'm very surprised I wasn't able to find any mention of this when searching for it, this is on my new to me 2008 LC
 
Mine is solid
 
Does anyone else's rear tailgate flex quite a bit when sitting on it? Mine flexes down several degrees and is not exactly confidence inspiring when sitting on it. I don't quite feel like I'm actually going to break it by sitting on it but it is not great. Is this something everyone is used to? The tailgate on my 80 series had very little to no flex when sitting on it. The black plastic that the tailgate wires mount to seems to flex down/in slightly.

I'm very surprised I wasn't able to find any mention of this when searching for it, this is on my new to me 2008 LC
Maybe one of your wire mount bolts isn’t tight enough?
 
Does anyone else's rear tailgate flex quite a bit when sitting on it? Mine flexes down several degrees and is not exactly confidence inspiring when sitting on it. I don't quite feel like I'm actually going to break it by sitting on it but it is not great. Is this something everyone is used to? The tailgate on my 80 series had very little to no flex when sitting on it. The black plastic that the tailgate wires mount to seems to flex down/in slightly.

I'm very surprised I wasn't able to find any mention of this when searching for it, this is on my new to me 2008 LC

The cables do wear. After one too many times of 4 tweens sitting across the tailgate, I got tired of the stretch and replaced the cables. Easy job.

Checkout the thread here:

Nice, just did this job yesterday too. The new ones use a broad square casing that leaves no chance for the wire to find the gap. I didn't have that problem but mine were stretched over the years camping. 4 kids on the tailgate is too much! :)

Easy 5 minute job with a T40 and impact driver.

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Does anyone else's rear tailgate flex quite a bit when sitting on it? Mine flexes down several degrees and is not exactly confidence inspiring when sitting on it. I don't quite feel like I'm actually going to break it by sitting on it but it is not great. Is this something everyone is used to? The tailgate on my 80 series had very little to no flex when sitting on it. The black plastic that the tailgate wires mount to seems to flex down/in slightly.

I'm very surprised I wasn't able to find any mention of this when searching for it, this is on my new to me 2008 LC
Mine has flexed a bit since I got my rig. I always attributed it to the less-than ideal geometry of the support cables. On my 80 they were at more of a 45-degree angle, and as such for a given load on the tailgate much less force going through the cables.

So far no real issues with well over 300# on there.
 

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