SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (3 Viewers)

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Never even thought of this - will give it a try.

I was running 35psi previously (from advice I got on here) and when it got cold that pressure dropped down to around 31 psi. At around 31psi I noticed the ride got squishy and a bit washed out when turning. Going over bumps was nice and soft though.

I recently got my spare mounted at Discount Tire and they told me the correct pressure was closer to 45psi - inflated to that now and the ride is STIFF.

@bloc 's advise is good. Definitely worth experimenting and tweaking tire pressures. The RCTIP bamboozling on these boards has been a disservice as it misleads what tire pressure is and should be, because tire pressure was never borne singularly on load rating. Even OEMs tailor pressures below load rating at times to balance trades, and will recommend additional inflation pressure when laden. When really laden and towing, that is still good practice even if there is enough tire pressure to meet load requirements.

One caveat is that pressure should generally not be below the door jamb stated pressure (33 PSI) in regular driving use, for stability and handling, even if the tire carcass is good from a load rating perspective.
 
Any insight on if these will work on 16+? Base looks a little shorter from pictures. It honestly looks like a better match imo than the silver in here, close enough to wood grain.


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Hi everyone,

I’m having trouble with the infotainment system in my 2009 LX570. The calendar date range for the maintaince stops at 2023, and I cant seem to set it past that.

Does anyone know if it’s possible to adjust or update the date range using Techstream or another tool?
 
technically, no. Software adds a fixed component to comply with government speeding regulations (e.g. UNECE Regulation 39). In my 2015 LC200 Sahara, it adds 4km/h to my real speed, for every speed about 10km/h (9 is 9, then it jumps to 14 when I'm doing 10, 64 at 60, 84 at 80, 104 at 100, 114 at 110, etc.). Unfortunately, there's no simple math based on percentages which can now give the true speed when you have different-sized wheels (I do not).

Exactly how (or even if) this affects my travelled range, fuel consumption, and other distance-related numbers is an interesting thought! Next time I'm on a long trip, I'll set Cruise at 104 and then see if I've done 100km exactly 1 hours later: presumably their actual math uses the real speed, not the fake law-abiding speedo-display for calculations.

" UNECE Regulation 39 (page 8, section 5.3: https://unece.org/fileadmin/DAM/trans/main/wp29/wp29regs/r039r1e.pdf ) requires that speedometers must never display a speed lower than the actual vehicle speed and may overstate the speed by up to 10% plus 4 km/h. "
Thanks for the background info. You quoted me however believe that was Teckis300. Agree with what he stated.

Have observed the same between indicated and gps based map devices, from the early days of those to current smartphones.

On my 535d I have gone one sidewall up and now the indicated is almost dead on the mark with actual. I expect distance travelled and fuel consumption shown to be off, have not tried to measure before the change or currently. No surprise, compared to the 200 I get around 40 mpg (US gallon based number) at 75 mph and 30 mpg in town, so fuel consumption is very good for a comfortable and size able 4 door sedan.

I plan to go one sidewall up on the LC200 when I am up for 5 new tires. Currently still rotating all 5 to use them up. I have the feeling indicated will be low by a few as current factory setup indicated is closer to actual than on the BMW. Also expect indicated mpg to drop some in the process.
 
Replaced alternator with OEM from Toyota.
Buttoned everything back up.
Battery light is now on.

Is my new alternator bad?
What else could this possibly be?
 
Did it trip codes when it originally failed? Did you reset those?
Nope. No codes.

It would randomly overcharge @ 17 V for 2-3 seconds at a time. It burned the headlights out without tripping any fuses. Happened multiple times on a long trip over Thanksgiving.

I tore the truck apart looking for moisture. No water ingress. Replaced the cowl grille. Cleaned all the multiconnectors in the kick panels.

I found what seemed like significant corrosion under the battery strap and some under the terminals. Replaced the battery and terminals, and the voltage spike didn’t happen again for over 1,000 miles.

Then it happened again the night before we were going to leave for a Christmas trip to visit family. So we took the Tundra, and I ordered a new alternator from Toyota, thinking the voltage regulator was slowly failing.

New OEM alternator is in, and now the battery light is on.

Frustrating.
 
Nope. No codes.

It would randomly overcharge @ 17 V for 2-3 seconds at a time. It burned the headlights out without tripping any fuses. Happened multiple times on a long trip over Thanksgiving.

I tore the truck apart looking for moisture. No water ingress. Replaced the cowl grille. Cleaned all the multiconnectors in the kick panels.

I found what seemed like significant corrosion under the battery strap and some under the terminals. Replaced the battery and terminals, and the voltage spike didn’t happen again for over 1,000 miles.

Then it happened again the night before we were going to leave for a Christmas trip to visit family. So we took the Tundra, and I ordered a new alternator from Toyota, thinking the voltage regulator was slowly failing.

New OEM alternator is in, and now the battery light is on.

Frustrating.
Checked battery voltage after sitting all night. It got very cold overnight. Multimeter read 12.68V this morning.
While running, 13.86V.

Everything appears to be working exactly as it should. Just need to find out why the charging system warning light has ground.
 
Hi everyone,

I’m having trouble with the infotainment system in my 2009 LX570. The calendar date range for the maintaince stops at 2023, and I cant seem to set it past that.

Does anyone know if it’s possible to adjust or update the date range using Techstream or another tool?
Anyone know of a fix for this? My 2009 finished last year, if not might just have to change it to a year that is the same as 2025. From memory I think it's 13 years the calendars are the same?
 
For those of you who added an M12000 winch behind an aftermarket bumper-

how did you account for the little bracket that buttresses the middle part of the bumper skin backing.

The winch drum diameter is too large to avoid hitting it. My temp solution was to bend the bracket off to the side. Would like to know what others have done.

Pics below

View attachment 3798931

View attachment 3798932

View attachment 3798933

I cut the middle out of mine. Been like that for 4-5 years and no extra play in the grill etc.

I also cut the middle out of mine. No problems

I just took mine out completely. No issues so far, but I tucked it away into a corner of the garage in case I need cut it to reinstall the ends.
 
Anyone know of a fix for this? My 2009 finished last year, if not might just have to change it to a year that is the same as 2025. From memory I think it's 13 years the calendars are the same?
How do you even change the date ? I only found manual time settings on my 09.
 
How long should I expect to leave heated seats on in accessory mode before draining the battery too far? Just the two front say? I've needed my boost pack a couple of times recently both after sitting there with the seats on. Wifey and I got to the beach for a coffee and I hate to idle it too long.
 
I just took mine out completely. No issues so far, but I tucked it away into a corner of the garage in case I need cut it to reinstall the ends.

I originally did that too, but then added the ends back in because I felt the headlights did not have enough support without them (the headlights bolt to them).
 
How long should I expect to leave heated seats on in accessory mode before draining the battery too far? Just the two front say? I've needed my boost pack a couple of times recently both after sitting there with the seats on. Wifey and I got to the beach for a coffee and I hate to idle it too long.
Not long. Resistive heating is about the quickest way to use up a battery.
 
I originally did that too, but then added the ends back in because I felt the headlights did not have enough support without them (the headlights bolt to them).
Good to know. I’ll take a closer look when I go back to finish lining up my new bumper
 
Not long. Resistive heating is about the quickest way to use up a battery.
For perspective, each front seat has a dedicated 30A fuse.
 
I originally did that too, but then added the ends back in because I felt the headlights did not have enough support without them (the headlights bolt to them).
Apologies in advance for a ramble question… but here goes:

Has anyone had the upper headlight “tabs” break cuz that bracket was removed? Where/how does the “outboard” side of that bracket mount up? (Or does it only bolt thru the inboard lower “tab” on the headlight?

The original owner had removed the bracket and installed an aftermarket bumper. And I think had a winch installed at some point.

Everything appeared ok since I purchased my 200 in 2018. A few months ago I noticed the upper headlight tabs were broken. I’m now considering installing a replacement bracket, but also have a winch sitting in the garage to be installed.
 

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