Pictures would really help here…
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day
- Thread starter JamesC
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elcie200
SILVER Star
For sure. Recycling my other post.
Post in thread 'SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day'
have not had time to try jbweld, but it’s on my list. Just curious how much was contributed by the missing support (which I have a replacement in the garage, but haven’t had time to pull the bullbar (dobinsons deluxe stainless))
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sqod-squad-stupid-question-of-the-day.862977/post-15637533
Ah, yeah.
Lack of support is most likely an issue. If you look close there’s another crack further up toward the bolt but it isn’t through the whole arm yet.
I fear that even if you repair the bracket it’ll just crack again because those lights aren’t stabilized as intended. Anything you can do to assist that bracket will help long term.
As others stated, I would try something like JB Weld. FWIW - My son got into a minor fender bender in his Tacoma. A tab like yours on the headlight light broke, rest of housing was perfect. Filed an insurance claim. The body shop said they would have to replace that headlight because it was a safety issue. Anyway, we got a new headlight with the repair and I asked for the original headlight to have as a spare backup - which they provided.
I would have to assume that did contribute to the breakage. You should also check to make sure whoever installed the aftermarket bumper did not forget to install the headlight bolt at the very rear edge of the bumper, right before the front fender (see below). It's really easy to think you need to remove these bolts when putting on a bumper, but they need to stay installed.
The combination of this bolt and the other one you've been referring to help keep the headlight from rocking forward slightly, which rocking would cause the rearmost side wing of the headlight to bump up and crack from making contact with the fender right above it.
elcie200
SILVER Star
Thanks. I will go take a look for that bolt.
2009 LX570
My remote start is triggered by clicking the lock button on my fob several times and then holding down the lock button. When I then want to get into my warm car, I use the unlock button on the fob.
When I click unlock the car shuts off.
Question: is there a way to keep it running ?
My remote start is triggered by clicking the lock button on my fob several times and then holding down the lock button. When I then want to get into my warm car, I use the unlock button on the fob.
When I click unlock the car shuts off.
Question: is there a way to keep it running ?
no. this is a shortcoming from Toyota software, logic, whatever that makes the car shut off whenever a door is opened after use of any (OEM, aftermarket, etc) remote start options.
If FoRd and gM can figure it out, I'm sure Toyota can too. They just don't "have" to.
My LX is the same. And my ‘21 Tundra does it as well.
I’ve always thought it was just Toyota being ultra cautious and protecting us against theft.
Why can’t they give us like 5 seconds to detect the key when we get in before shutting it off?
I think you need an aftermarket unit to not shut it off, though.
That's being charitable for Toyota imo. I could be wrong, but I don't know of any aftermarket remote start system that allows for uninterrupted engine running with remote start use.
Well I’ve been keenly following the aftermarket tech stream alternative thread, crossing fingers that this is a setting that can be reprogrammed…
It's possible I haven't seen it...but in the past 5 years I have not seen anyone have luck with this and have not seen it in any sort of menu for my 200 I have found.
Your wrong! (Teasing)
My Python aftermarket remote starter i put in my ‘08 Acura MDX wouldn’t shut off until you put your foot on the brake to shift out of Park. If you put the key in the ignition before putting your foot on the brake it wouldn’t shut off. Granted that was not with a keyless fob, but I assume it’s the same and would work with an LC. So they do exist, but aftermarket only, or at least they did in 2009…
I have found it a few times, Always takes me 10mins to find the setting where you can change it. It's at the top of either settings or menu, not near the cruiser to check.
I have had conversations with 2 separate independent shops that install lots of alarms and remote starts. Both told me there is NO remote start system available or bypass to stop the engine from shutting off when the door is opened, in Toyota vehicles. None.
Please prove me wrong, I really hope they are.
The Compustar aftermarket system in my truck does the same thing.
Heh well you didn’t say in your Toyota, only the hat you didn’t know of an alarm that can do it. I can only speak to the installation done in my second gen Acura MDX. I 100% did not need to restart it so long as I inserted the key before depressing the brake. That was with a Python alarm (same as Clifford and a few other brands).
I can’t speak to Toyota or the LC/LX specifically as I haven’t investigated since I don’t regularly use the remote start function since my garage is detached and faces my alley so I won’t leave it open unattended unless I’m looking for someone to empty it out for me. But I’m surprised it wouldn’t be possible.
prob a dumb question, which is the norm for me, but figured this is the place. I installed rock warriors with 285/70 SL AT4Ws. I get rub ONLY on the driver side front fender liner when going in reverse at full right lock. I don't get any rub on the passenger side when fully locked left in reverse. Is that normal?
Yes
It’s probably fine, but you could also try to have your alignment adjusted to eliminate it.