SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (14 Viewers)

[2HundyJTex]

What I'm getting at is just as I can take my LX570 to a Toyota dealership for common maintenance items for an LC or other models with a shared drivetrain, an LC can be taken to Lexus dealerships to. Sure, the rates will be higher, but the chances of a good service experience will be higher too.

Actually, and maybe this is a local or Texas thing, but I can’t do this. Our local (Fred Hass) Toyota won’t service Lexus and Lexus (Northside) won’t accept the LC even for basic stuff. I’ve asked, particularly with Lexus for the LC. It would be super convenient to bring two vehicles to one more convenient place, but no dice. I’ve had only one minor issue at the dealership service. No one’s perfect. Check their work, just like anywhere else.

 

[das100]

I've noticed this when browsing the beat sonic website.

Has anybody used this or a similar concept to supply power for an amp/powered sub? I hadn't seen this before.

Beat-Sonic EAZ-C02 Power Seat Cable Harness for Active Subwoofer

Great plug and play harness to easily provide power to your new aftermarket powered subwoofer from under the passenger's seat.Features: Allows easy power supply for your new powered subwoofer without needing to route wire through the car's firewall and to the battery terminal High quality OEM...

www.beatsonicusa.com

 

[skrypj]

I've noticed this when browsing the beat sonic website.

Has anybody used this or a similar concept to supply power for an amp/powered sub? I hadn't seen this before.

Beat-Sonic EAZ-C02 Power Seat Cable Harness for Active Subwoofer

Great plug and play harness to easily provide power to your new aftermarket powered subwoofer from under the passenger's seat.Features: Allows easy power supply for your new powered subwoofer without needing to route wire through the car's firewall and to the battery terminal High quality OEM...

www.beatsonicusa.com

That’s nifty. Could be used for a lot of things i think.

 

[propernorf]

I've noticed this when browsing the beat sonic website.

Has anybody used this or a similar concept to supply power for an amp/powered sub? I hadn't seen this before.

Beat-Sonic EAZ-C02 Power Seat Cable Harness for Active Subwoofer

Great plug and play harness to easily provide power to your new aftermarket powered subwoofer from under the passenger's seat.Features: Allows easy power supply for your new powered subwoofer without needing to route wire through the car's firewall and to the battery terminal High quality OEM...

www.beatsonicusa.com

I found a similar cable from aliexpress way cheaper and few other variants.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007135919721.html

 

[KLF]

A 16ga wire with a 15A fuse isn't gonna power much subwoofer.

 

[TheComedian]

My stupid question of the day. What is this hook that is mounted under my second row for?

 

[das100]

I’m not in front of mine at the moment but from what I recall from my 100 and what I remember from the 200 that should clip onto the grab handle tighten to keep the seat securely folded up. If it’s not that location specifically stretch around to see where it reaches. Looks like a seat anchor in general.

 

[tbisaacs]

My stupid question of the day. What is this hook that is mounted under my second row for?
View attachment 3802826

When the seat is folded up you use the hook to strap the seat to the grab handle so the seat stays up while driving.

 

[TheComedian]

When the seat is folded up you use the hook to strap the seat to the grab handle so the seat stays up while driving.

Ohh the grab handles. Ok didn’t thought about them because I was like „hmm to the front seats doesn’t make sense safetywise, and it isn’t to strap something onto them.“

Thanks alot

 

[das100]

A 16ga wire with a 15A fuse isn't gonna power much subwoofer.

yeah I agree with that...maybe an under the seat truck box. Thought it was interesting nonetheless. Bringing power in and properly routing and hiding the cable is one of the more time consuming parts of adding an amp/sub.

 

[AZLX570]

Was thinking of making a thread but starting here first since there's so many tire threads. I currently have E rated 285/70/17 tires that I've had for about 2 years. Specifically Goodyear Wrangler Ultraterrain.

I can't get out of my head/buyers remorse that I should not be running E rated tires. Basically, when I got them, I thought E = better. Now I feel like I'm paying the price with fuel economy, and more importantly, ride quality wise. I do not currently tow and have no extra weight.

Sticking with an AT tire, would it be worth the switch to ditch the Goodyears in favor of say an SL rated Falken AT4? Sure I'd be taking a loss but would the ride quality/mpg be a decent jump?

 

[bloc]

Was thinking of making a thread but starting here first since there's so many tire threads. I currently have E rated 285/70/17 tires that I've had for about 2 years. Specifically Goodyear Wrangler Ultraterrain.

I can't get out of my head/buyers remorse that I should not be running E rated tires. Basically, when I got them, I thought E = better. Now I feel like I'm paying the price with fuel economy, and more importantly, ride quality wise. I do not currently tow and have no extra weight.

Sticking with an AT tire, would it be worth the switch to ditch the Goodyears in favor of say an SL rated Falken AT4? Sure I'd be taking a loss but would the ride quality/mpg be a decent jump?

Try temporarily lowering your tire pressure to the range required for the tires you are looking at, and go find some typical roads with sharp bumps and such to test it on. Avoid high speed driving though.

The E-load sidewalls will still be stiffer than the prospective tires but the pressure difference will get you much of the way there..

This should help you make a more informed decision.

 

[AZLX570]

Try temporarily lowering your tire pressure to the range required for the tires you are looking at, and go find some typical roads with sharp bumps and such to test it on. Avoid high speed driving though.

The E-load sidewalls will still be stiffer than the prospective tires but the pressure difference will get you much of the way there..

This should help you make a more informed decision.

Never even thought of this - will give it a try.

I was running 35psi previously (from advice I got on here) and when it got cold that pressure dropped down to around 31 psi. At around 31psi I noticed the ride got squishy and a bit washed out when turning. Going over bumps was nice and soft though.

I recently got my spare mounted at Discount Tire and they told me the correct pressure was closer to 45psi - inflated to that now and the ride is STIFF.

 

[bloc]

Never even thought of this - will give it a try.

I was running 35psi previously (from advice I got on here) and when it got cold that pressure dropped down to around 31 psi. At around 31psi I noticed the ride got squishy and a bit washed out when turning. Going over bumps was nice and soft though.

I recently got my spare mounted at Discount Tire and they told me the correct pressure was closer to 45psi - inflated to that now and the ride is STIFF.

From memory the same calculation would have you at about 27psi on non-LT 285/70R17s.. which is objectively way too little pressure. I was pretty happy with mine at 33-35.

Point is you’d have some room to mess with pressure to dial things in, plus the tire & wheel should be lighter (win) and yes it would return better mileage.

In theory those LTs will give up some fuel efficiency even when inflated to the calculated pressure of 45. Going down into the mid-30s will just make that worse.

 

[rherrco]

Was thinking of making a thread but starting here first since there's so many tire threads. I currently have E rated 285/70/17 tires that I've had for about 2 years. Specifically Goodyear Wrangler Ultraterrain.

I can't get out of my head/buyers remorse that I should not be running E rated tires. Basically, when I got them, I thought E = better. Now I feel like I'm paying the price with fuel economy, and more importantly, ride quality wise. I do not currently tow and have no extra weight.

Sticking with an AT tire, would it be worth the switch to ditch the Goodyears in favor of say an SL rated Falken AT4? Sure I'd be taking a loss but would the ride quality/mpg be a decent jump?

38 psi seemed to be the sweet spot for my Falken AT3w E tires same size as yours. The E rated tire was what Discount Tire recommended for my LX, and I have not heavily modded it. Tire pressure makes a world of difference. Yes the ride quality and handling suffers on pavement, but off road is a breeze. MPG dropped compared to all season tires, but I don’t drive enough to care. I got tires and wheels, figuring to switch them out for different travel plans, but the minor difference in ride and mpg wasn’t worth the hassle.

 

[Vixen]

Can I install a Denso DAN1208 180A alternator in a 2016 LC200 (originally equipped with a 150A alternator, part number 27060-38130)? Is there a chance it will fit?

 

[prwillard2]

Was thinking of making a thread but starting here first since there's so many tire threads. I currently have E rated 285/70/17 tires that I've had for about 2 years. Specifically Goodyear Wrangler Ultraterrain.

I can't get out of my head/buyers remorse that I should not be running E rated tires. Basically, when I got them, I thought E = better. Now I feel like I'm paying the price with fuel economy, and more importantly, ride quality wise. I do not currently tow and have no extra weight.

Sticking with an AT tire, would it be worth the switch to ditch the Goodyears in favor of say an SL rated Falken AT4? Sure I'd be taking a loss but would the ride quality/mpg be a decent jump?

I found that the ride quality on my 200 improved with E rated tires. P-Metric were way too soft. Maybe I'm just used to the rougher ride now.

 

[rherrco]

38 psi seemed to be the sweet spot for my Falken AT3w E tires same size as yours. The E rated tire was what Discount Tire recommended for my LX, and I have not heavily modded it. Tire pressure makes a world of difference. Yes the ride quality and handling suffers on pavement, but off road is a breeze. MPG dropped compared to all season tires, but I don’t drive enough to care. I got tires and wheels, figuring to switch them out for different travel plans, but the minor difference in ride and mpg wasn’t worth the hassle.

I just double checked my tires. They are actually C rated. But it is a funny looking C, almost looks like an E.

 

[cnd]

- Speedo is wheel speed from the ABS sensors and not the transmission output shaft.

technically, no. Software adds a fixed component to comply with government speeding regulations (e.g. UNECE Regulation 39). In my 2015 LC200 Sahara, it adds 4km/h to my real speed, for every speed about 10km/h (9 is 9, then it jumps to 14 when I'm doing 10, 64 at 60, 84 at 80, 104 at 100, 114 at 110, etc.). Unfortunately, there's no simple math based on percentages which can now give the true speed when you have different-sized wheels (I do not).

Exactly how (or even if) this affects my travelled range, fuel consumption, and other distance-related numbers is an interesting thought! Next time I'm on a long trip, I'll set Cruise at 104 and then see if I've done 100km exactly 1 hours later: presumably their actual math uses the real speed, not the fake law-abiding speedo-display for calculations.

" UNECE Regulation 39 (page 8, section 5.3: https://unece.org/fileadmin/DAM/trans/main/wp29/wp29regs/r039r1e.pdf ) requires that speedometers must never display a speed lower than the actual vehicle speed and may overstate the speed by up to 10% plus 4 km/h. "

 

[lx200inAR]

technically, no. Software adds a fixed component to comply with government speeding regulations (e.g. UNECE Regulation 39). In my 2015 LC200 Sahara, it adds 4km/h to my real speed, for every speed about 10km/h (9 is 9, then it jumps to 14 when I'm doing 10, 64 at 60, 84 at 80, 104 at 100, 114 at 110, etc.). Unfortunately, there's no simple math based on percentages which can now give the true speed when you have different-sized wheels (I do not).

Exactly how (or even if) this affects my travelled range, fuel consumption, and other distance-related numbers is an interesting thought! Next time I'm on a long trip, I'll set Cruise at 104 and then see if I've done 100km exactly 1 hours later: presumably their actual math uses the real speed, not the fake law-abiding speedo-display for calculations.

" UNECE Regulation 39 (page 8, section 5.3: https://unece.org/fileadmin/DAM/trans/main/wp29/wp29regs/r039r1e.pdf ) requires that speedometers must never display a speed lower than the actual vehicle speed and may overstate the speed by up to 10% plus 4 km/h. "

When doing a similar test, I found the that truck definitely records less distance if you have larger tires. I also agree, that the indicated speed in dash is always less than actual speed, whereas, the distance measuring functions of the vehicle (odometer) were very accurate. For example, I went to a LT285/75R17 tire that should have increased my circumference by 8%. My indicated speed compared to GPS after the wheel change was that I read a few percent slow, instead of a few percent fast before the swap. But my odometer read nearly exactly 8% low compared to GPS distance traveled.