SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (7 Viewers)

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You’re not at all the first person to find this after switching to aftermarket gears. That was a primary reason when I was looking at 4.30s I was adamant that they be Toyota.

I’d bet subsequent changes will be better
I hope so. I’ve had these for 44k, and this is the second change.
 
How much metal is “normal” on the rear diff drain plug when you change the fluid after 25-30k miles? Today is the first time I’ve done it myself, and only did the rear (because I had a leak from bumping the drain plug on a trail), but the plug had a lot more what seemed like grease or sludge on it, and under that was definitely metal “hair” on the magnet.

Attaching a photo but this really doesn’t show what I had because I’d wiped it clean with the rubber glkve before thinking “I should take a picture of this.” 4.88 nitro gears, and I’m wondering (a) is it normal to have some “fuzz” on the plug at this interval with aftermarket gears, and (b) what does normal Toyota gear wear metal shavings look like?
View attachment 3788869
Hmmm. What did the oil look like? I do 40k mile changes (mostly towing) on my OEM gears and there is only a light grayish coating on the plug. Definitely no metal hairs. I’m sure you’ll be doing the front diff too.
 
Hmmm. What did the oil look like? I do 40k mile changes (mostly towing) on my OEM gears and there is only a light grayish coating on the plug. Definitely no metal hairs. I’m sure you’ll be doing the front diff too.
Not black but definitely darker than the new oil after ~22k miles. And definitely some fine hairs on the plug. What surprised me more was what seems thicker, more like grease, around the plug. In fairness the diff was pretty cold though.

Front diff will be done in 10k miles. Or maybe less now…
 
You may want to consider doing a few drain and fills at shorter intervals to hopefully clean it up.
 
Recently when in sub-freezing temps, I notice that my AC/Heater chirps for a while until my engine heats up and it starts blowing hot air into the cabin.

There is no such chirp when the engine is warming up when it’s cold but above freezing.

Any thoughts on what this could be?
Is there a belt in there that I should get replaced?
 
Recently when in sub-freezing temps, I notice that my AC/Heater chirps for a while until my engine heats up and it starts blowing hot air into the cabin.

There is no such chirp when the engine is warming up when it’s cold but above freezing.

Any thoughts on what this could be?
Is there a belt in there that I should get replaced?
Chirp only with the blower fan on?
 
I'm trying to come up with a semi-accurate estimate for tire revolutions/distance traveled with a stock 200 vs. one with 35" tires and 4.88 gears. The primary purpose is for a correction factor for calculating mpg. i.e. with my old 80 on 315's and stock gears, all I had to do was add 10% to the miles traveled per tank to get an estimated MPG, because the only difference was the tire size. Since I have 4.88 gears, it's not going to be that simple.

I'd love to look at the number on the dash display and be able to do a simple "it's actually 8% higher than that" or "it's actually 15% lower than that" calculation, which I can do in my head on the fly. (yes, I know the dash display isn't necessarily spot on either). I just don't know how to get there.

I've played around with the grim jeeper gear ratio calculator, and not been able to figure it out. I think the math is beyond me. Does anyone know how to calculate this, or have a quick answer?
 
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Chirp only with the blower fan on?
Yes.
Well… is the blower fan controlled by the AC buttons? If so, yes.
I mostly leave the setting to “auto” and when really cold it chirps until I hit the “off” button. Then it’s quiet.
If I wait until things warm up, then I can hit “auto” again and it doesn’t chirp.
 
Yes.
Well… is the blower fan controlled by the AC buttons? If so, yes.
I mostly leave the setting to “auto” and when really cold it chirps until I hit the “off” button. Then it’s quiet.
If I wait until things warm up, then I can hit “auto” again and it doesn’t chirp.
My GX did this and I believe it was the bearing/bushing on the hamster cage fan running a bit dry after running for years. I disassembled it and lubed it which fixed the problem for a while, then it started doing it again. There was a tiny hole in the bottom of the housing right next to it so I was able to spray a bit of silicone lube in there every year or so and the chirping would stop for a time and then start to come back. My 32 year old SC400 also chirps but I haven't done anything about it except keep the music on. I don't know if that's your issue in such a new vehicle but since it's temp related, it makes me wonder if it is different materials contracting in the cold or grease losing it's lubricity.
 
I'm trying to come up with a semi-accurate estimate for tire revolutions/distance traveled with a stock 200 vs. one with 35" tires and 4.88 gears. The primary purpose is for a correction factor for calculating mpg. i.e. with my old 80 on 315's and stock gears, all I had to do was add 10% to the miles traveled per tank to get an estimated MPG, because the only difference was the tire size. Since I have 4.88 gears, it's not going to be that simple.

I'd love to look at the number on the dash display and be able to do a simple "it's actually 8% higher than that" or "it's actually 15% lower than that" calculation, which I can do in my head on the fly. (yes, I know the dash display isn't necessarily spot on either). I just don't know how to get there.

I've played around with the grim jeeper gear ratio calculator, and not been able to figure it out. I think the math is beyond me. Does anyone know how to calculate this, or have a quick answer?
That is pretty basic math. I dare you to figure it out and probably use xls to make light work of the calculation.
 
My GX did this and I believe it was the bearing/bushing on the hamster cage fan running a bit dry after running for years. I disassembled it and lubed it which fixed the problem for a while, then it started doing it again. There was a tiny hole in the bottom of the housing right next to it so I was able to spray a bit of silicone lube in there every year or so and the chirping would stop for a time and then start to come back. My 32 year old SC400 also chirps but I haven't done anything about it except keep the music on. I don't know if that's your issue in such a new vehicle but since it's temp related, it makes me wonder if it is different materials contracting in the cold or grease losing it's lubricity.
Yep, most likely the issue.

A light oil is better in this application than silicon.. 3-in-1 works well and I’m sure we could find others specifically suited to sintered bronze bushings, which these most likely are.

But yes ultimately it’s the fan motor wearing.
 
I'm trying to come up with a semi-accurate estimate for tire revolutions/distance traveled with a stock 200 vs. one with 35" tires and 4.88 gears. The primary purpose is for a correction factor for calculating mpg. i.e. with my old 80 on 315's and stock gears, all I had to do was add 10% to the miles traveled per tank to get an estimated MPG, because the only difference was the tire size. Since I have 4.88 gears, it's not going to be that simple.

I'd love to look at the number on the dash display and be able to do a simple "it's actually 8% higher than that" or "it's actually 15% lower than that" calculation, which I can do in my head on the fly. (yes, I know the dash display isn't necessarily spot on either). I just don't know how to get there.

I've played around with the grim jeeper gear ratio calculator, and not been able to figure it out. I think the math is beyond me. Does anyone know how to calculate this, or have a quick answer?

Couple notes that might simplify what you're looking for:
- 4.88s aren't a factor. Speedo is wheel speed from the ABS sensors and not the transmission output shaft.
- Tire manufactures often include "revolutions per mile" for each tire size. Since they're using the same methodology between tire sizes, the correction factor is simply a ratio between the two tires sizes in question.
 
Couple notes that might simplify what you're looking for:
- 4.88s aren't a factor. Speedo is wheel speed from the ABS sensors and not the transmission output shaft.
- Tire manufactures often include "revolutions per mile" for each tire size. Since they're using the same methodology between tire sizes, the correction factor is simply a ratio between the two tires sizes in question.
I thought GPS units also gave you mph.
 
I'm trying to come up with a semi-accurate estimate for tire revolutions/distance traveled with a stock 200 vs. one with 35" tires and 4.88 gears. The primary purpose is for a correction factor for calculating mpg. i.e. with my old 80 on 315's and stock gears, all I had to do was add 10% to the miles traveled per tank to get an estimated MPG, because the only difference was the tire size. Since I have 4.88 gears, it's not going to be that simple.

I'd love to look at the number on the dash display and be able to do a simple "it's actually 8% higher than that" or "it's actually 15% lower than that" calculation, which I can do in my head on the fly. (yes, I know the dash display isn't necessarily spot on either). I just don't know how to get there.

I've played around with the grim jeeper gear ratio calculator, and not been able to figure it out. I think the math is beyond me. Does anyone know how to calculate this, or have a quick answer?
With my 35x10.5r17 if I drive 61 I’m going 65. If I drive 68 I’m going 73 or 74.
The prevalent speed limits around me are 60 and 70, so those are my cruise settings I use.

For the 275/80r18 it was about 10%. Those were 35.3”, the current set aren’t quite as tall.
 
Things to check besides Coolent level and air filter?

When idling my temp guage climbs up to the red, it’s 34 degrees outside.

Edit: no leaks just low on coolant. Put .5 gal in and no issues after idling/ driving it like I stole it.
 
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- 4.88s aren't a factor. Speedo is wheel speed from the ABS sensors and not the transmission output shaft.

OK, great! I didn't know that. 80 had the speed sensor on the TC (so was affected by gear changes). That really simplifies things. Great relief to know I'm actually getting closer to 14mpg rather than 11 :eek:
 
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Things to check besides Coolent level and air filter?

When idling my temp guage climbs up to the red, it’s 34 degrees outside.
Any recent work on the cooling system?
 
Things to check besides Coolent level and air filter?

When idling my temp guage climbs up to the red, it’s 34 degrees outside.
Check your coolant level in the reservoir as well as the radiator (when it's cold). Note that the radiator I think has a "hole" in the fill port so sometimes it'll look full when it's empty... you might need to pour some coolant into the radiator before it's obvious. Check for leaks as well.

FWIW we had someone on a trail at Windrock in October suddenly get into the red. One of the heater hose T's had cracked and it was spraying hot coolant, so we noticed the steam. The coolant reservoir was still full, and when we opened the radiator it didn't spray out and while it looked full we were able to pour a full gallon into it.

If it's not leaking then your thermostat could be sticking or the water pump could be seized.
 
Things to check besides Coolent level and air filter?

When idling my temp guage climbs up to the red, it’s 34 degrees outside.

I'd be looking at fan clutch for sure.

To be clear, it doesn't get hot when driving down the road?
 

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