SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (6 Viewers)
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prharper
GOLD Star
Thanks, that does look similar. I will pull this off.
terrapin
SILVER Star
I recently replaced both rear AHC sensors. I thought one was bad, but it turned out that a mouse/rat had chewed the wires at a place that I couldn't readily see.
Would any of you also replace the front sensors "just because?" I'm all about reliability and plan on keeping this vehicle. The price is not too bad from Partsouq, but outrageous locally and from other sellers.
My front end has always lifted much slower than the rear and I wonder if the sensors have anything to do with that. I took them off once to check, but couldn't figure out how to open them to clean the contacts. Fluid changes and new globes did not affect the lift rate of the front.
2010 LX570 with about 180k miles.
Would any of you also replace the front sensors "just because?" I'm all about reliability and plan on keeping this vehicle. The price is not too bad from Partsouq, but outrageous locally and from other sellers.
My front end has always lifted much slower than the rear and I wonder if the sensors have anything to do with that. I took them off once to check, but couldn't figure out how to open them to clean the contacts. Fluid changes and new globes did not affect the lift rate of the front.
2010 LX570 with about 180k miles.
My front has always lifted slower than the rear, I think that's normal. I broke a sensor being a goon and replaced it with a used one from ebay. I personally think the sensors are more of a "if it's working, it's working" thing and there are not degrees of functionality (i.e. no benefit in putting a new one on compared to a working old one).
A little work with fishing leader and it is gone.
I have a new to me 2015 LC200 with 210k miles. I have had the truck a total of 2,500 miles.
I recently took it on a 1,800 mile road trip to visit some friends and for me to better understand the truck. I will be doing several roadtrips this year and this one is the shortest. No off-roading and mostly interstate or highway. I had three problems come up during that trip and I have used the search and couldn’t find the issues. I took it to a reputable independent shop near me and they gave a very generic response of ‘We could replicate it’.
My stupid question of the day is: Do I start one thread with three issues or three threads with one issue each?
- -
Issue 1: Brake lights stay on after turning off the car. Remedy is pulling up on the brake pedal and they turn off - so I believe it is related to a switch sensor.
Issue 2: Truck will be driving fine. In both city and highway driving, the rpm will drop to idle - not below idle. Easily remedied by lifting and reapplying the throttle - so I believe it is related to a switch sensor - but is it related to the brake light issue above?
Issue 3: At highway and interstate speeds, the transmission will sometimes stay in fourth and not shift higher. This can be remedied by shifting into manual mode, shifting up to sixth, and then back into drive. No other hard shifts up or down during normal driving. I have also noticed that the transmission tunnel on the passenger side can get rather hot - is that normal?
Thanks for your help!!
I recently took it on a 1,800 mile road trip to visit some friends and for me to better understand the truck. I will be doing several roadtrips this year and this one is the shortest. No off-roading and mostly interstate or highway. I had three problems come up during that trip and I have used the search and couldn’t find the issues. I took it to a reputable independent shop near me and they gave a very generic response of ‘We could replicate it’.
My stupid question of the day is: Do I start one thread with three issues or three threads with one issue each?
- -
Issue 1: Brake lights stay on after turning off the car. Remedy is pulling up on the brake pedal and they turn off - so I believe it is related to a switch sensor.
Issue 2: Truck will be driving fine. In both city and highway driving, the rpm will drop to idle - not below idle. Easily remedied by lifting and reapplying the throttle - so I believe it is related to a switch sensor - but is it related to the brake light issue above?
Issue 3: At highway and interstate speeds, the transmission will sometimes stay in fourth and not shift higher. This can be remedied by shifting into manual mode, shifting up to sixth, and then back into drive. No other hard shifts up or down during normal driving. I have also noticed that the transmission tunnel on the passenger side can get rather hot - is that normal?
Thanks for your help!!
#2 could be related to #1. I remember reading somewhere that the engine ECU will shut down the throttle if the brakes are applied long enough. This is in response to all the reports of runaway cars years ago, mostly Camrys and Prius. I think it could be something as simple as a broken or missing return spring on the brake pedal.
I think 1 and 2 are related. The ECU will cut fuel if it detects brake and gas being applied at the same time. This was in response to the floor mat issues Toyota had (which were IMO likely mostly a software bug, not floor mats causing unintended acceleration).
There’s a thread on how to download the digital FSM which is helpful for debugging something like this and figuring out exactly which sensor. Normally I’d just look this up but I’m traveling and don’t have it handy.
Fix the above and then let’s debug #3 if it persists. That could be an artifact of the transmission thinking you’re braking, or it could be a number of other things
Thank you both! I didn’t even think of the brake switch causing the rpm/throttle change - but that makes sense!
With the transmission I want to be ahead of it so I might take it to another shop in the area.
With the transmission I want to be ahead of it so I might take it to another shop in the area.
The transmission tunnel on the PS can get very warm on my 8 speed. But the shift pattern needs to be figured out because there is a possibility the torque converter is not locking up which would certainly cause extra heat.
Here's a thread with more info on the brake switch. Looks like yours failed differently, in the on position. Fix should be the same.
4Lo Blinking, Unrelated DTC (P0504)
Hello everyone, Here's another 4Lo blinking thread! I read some of the other ones but looks like in all cases they all have DTCs. What I experiencing is this: 4Lo is off when I turn on the car. A couple of seconds to a couple of minutes after driving it starts blinking (no other lights, only...
forum.ih8mud.com
That is what I found a lot in my search - and I must admit that I don’t have a good working knowledge of the system - something I hope to change during my ownership.
Vehemently disagree. If you were a real goon, you'd know the secret part code (CLASSIFIED) for the elite sensor conversion.
Here's me this weekend. (note: I just installed some new body plastics, and those are rent-a-friend people, but never mind that)
I just dropped your questions into a new LLM, and here's what it spat out: (I'm somewhere between impressed and terrified)
Hello there! It sounds like you're having some trouble with your Toyota Land Cruiser. Let's see if we can figure out the root causes of these issues.
- Brake lights staying on after turning off the car: This issue is most likely caused by a faulty brake light switch. When you turn off the car, the switch should automatically cut off power to the brake lights. However, if the switch is malfunctioning, it might require manual intervention (like pulling up the brake pedal) to turn off the lights.
- RPM dropping to idle while driving: This issue could be related to a couple of different sensors, such as the throttle position sensor or the mass air flow sensor. These sensors help control the engine's fuel injection and air intake. If they're not working properly, the engine might not receive the correct signals, causing it to drop in RPM. While this issue could be related to the brake light switch, it's more likely that these are separate issues.
- Transmission staying in fourth gear: This problem is most likely caused by a faulty transmission control solenoid or a malfunctioning shift lever assembly. The transmission control solenoid regulates the flow of hydraulic fluid to engage and disengage gears, while the shift lever assembly helps transmit commands from the driver to the transmission. If either component is failing, it might cause the transmission to get stuck in higher gears.
I hope this information helps you understand your Land Cruiser's issues better! If you need more clarification or want further assistance, please don't hesitate to ask.
from a new AI, for giggles: (I'll stop now)
While your Lexus LX is a powerful vehicle, its performance might be affected by the additional weight of people and luggage, especially when driving at highway speeds on inclines. The jerking or jumping sensation you're experiencing could be due to the transmission working harder to maintain speed under these conditions.
A slight downshift in gears can help provide more power and torque to handle the increased load and incline, which is why you might feel the vehicle accelerating and then shifting up again to maintain your cruising speed. This behavior could be more pronounced after a DIY transmission fluid flush because new fluid might not have been broken-in yet or may need some time to circulate fully throughout the system.
However, it's essential to note that this is not necessarily "normal" for your vehicle. While your Lexus LX can handle additional weight and inclines, persistent jerking or jumping at high speeds could be a sign of other underlying issues. For example, there might be problems with the transmission itself, such as malfunctioning solenoids, sensors, or clutch packs. Alternatively, it could be an airflow issue causing the engine to run lean or rich, affecting its performance.
It's always a good idea to have any unusual vehicle behavior checked by a professional mechanic, especially when it involves high speeds and additional loads. They can perform diagnostic tests to determine if there are any issues with your Lexus LX and recommend the best course of action to ensure safe and smooth driving.
While I tend not to use cruise control on mountains, I have done manual shifting while using cruise control. Like, just as an incline starts, to get into a lower gear sooner. The thing does tend to row through the gears to keep the land speed up in D.
I replaced my fan clutch a few months ago when I did my radiator and WP. I've noticed that it never disengages at idle no matter the exterior temp. I can only hear it disengage above ~3k, but never under that. I used the Aisin FCT-087.
Now I can't tell if my old one never worked correctly or if if this new one is somehow defective. Anyone have any thoughts?
Now I can't tell if my old one never worked correctly or if if this new one is somehow defective. Anyone have any thoughts?
bloc
SILVER Star
I replaced my original with Genuine Toyota at about 180k as PM and it operates pretty much exactly like the old one: roar at start, calms down, comes into play as things heat up. And yes it mostly disengages at idle.
Yea mine never calms down. I guess I got a defective one.
