SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (4 Viewers)

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Is there a preferred seller on eBay for accumulator globes? I don’t want to buy knockoffs but from threads I’ve searched I’ve found dead links or just “buy from eBay Japanese sellers”
I purchased from


Received it. Well packaged and oem. There is a jdm planet eBay store as well
 
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After much search (directly on MUD and via Google pointed at MUD) I have not found much info on replacing body mount bushings. Is it worth the effort? When does it become necessary? (pics related; they are the fronts, rears look better) And is this one of those 'while you're in there, replace all the bits' cases? Replace them all, or only the skunky ones? How many horse powers do you gain by doing this/how many more MPGs does this add? etc. TYIA for insights.

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After having the Ironman 3” FCP lift installed (5 months ago) I occasionally hear a loud ping come from the front driver wheel when I’m on rough terrain and turning sharply.

In looking at it, it all seems fine and I haven’t noticed any effects when driving.

But it’s alarming every time. Like i broke the cv joint or something.

Any thoughts on what it could be?
 
After having the Ironman 3” FCP lift installed (5 months ago) I occasionally hear a loud ping come from the front driver wheel when I’m on rough terrain and turning sharply.

In looking at it, it all seems fine and I haven’t noticed any effects when driving.

But it’s alarming every time. Like i broke the cv joint or something.

Any thoughts on what it could be?

Check your swaybar links. Mine broke in sedona and I was sure I had over extended a CV. It made the worst sound.
 
After having the Ironman 3” FCP lift installed (5 months ago) I occasionally hear a loud ping come from the front driver wheel when I’m on rough terrain and turning sharply.

In looking at it, it all seems fine and I haven’t noticed any effects when driving.

But it’s alarming every time. Like i broke the cv joint or something.

Any thoughts on what it could be?
I had a popping sound recently I was hearing when pulling out of my garage. Garage is about 4-5" above the alley and is a 90 degree turn to get in, so I was very slightly "off camber" while pulling in or backing out. I could sometimes feel the pop in the steering wheel, which was concerning. Steering rack was replaced and the noise is gone. My hunch was a bad tie rod (didn't sounds like a bad CV which I expected would click) though the dealer couldn't find any play in them. I opted for the steering rack replacement because I've been leaking power steering fluid for a while, though the dealer wasn't pushing me to do it.
 
I tried searching and the owners manual was semi helpful.

When driving with the transmission in S- does this change shift patterns from normal D?

And if so, what is the difference in S vs ECT Power?

From driving it seems S is the same as D, it just allows the driver to select the gear.
 
I had a popping sound recently I was hearing when pulling out of my garage. Garage is about 4-5" above the alley and is a 90 degree turn to get in, so I was very slightly "off camber" while pulling in or backing out. I could sometimes feel the pop in the steering wheel, which was concerning. Steering rack was replaced and the noise is gone. My hunch was a bad tie rod (didn't sounds like a bad CV which I expected would click) though the dealer couldn't find any play in them. I opted for the steering rack replacement because I've been leaking power steering fluid for a while, though the dealer wasn't pushing me to do it.
Thank you, Linux and @tbisaacs. I will check out both of those possibilities and post back.

And like I said, I can’t detect anything currently broken due to this noise. It’s just my usual fear of getting stranded somewhere when/if the noise graduates into an actual breakdown somewhere wild.
 
I tried searching and the owners manual was semi helpful.

When driving with the transmission in S- does this change shift patterns from normal D?

And if so, what is the difference in S vs ECT Power?

From driving it seems S is the same as D, it just allows the driver to select the gear.
S # sets the max gear the trans will shift into. So up to whatever number the trans will shift normally. Most people use it for engine braking.
 
S # sets the max gear the trans will shift into. So up to whatever number the trans will shift normally. Most people use it for engine braking.
Or towing. If you put it in S mode and don’t change the gears, it’s basically like turning “Overdrive” off. Pretty sure it also locks up the torque converter**

Once you shift into a different gear, you’re in “manual mode,” whatever that means for an automatic car.

**I have an ‘07 Tundra work truck that stutters on acceleration around 38-40mph. Pretty sure it’s an issue with the torque converter, so I just drive in S mode around the city. This eliminates the stutter, so I assume S mode locks up the TC.

I think ECT mode just makes the car shift at higher RPMs for added power. You still get the full range of gears.
 
Or towing. If you put it in S mode and don’t change the gears, it’s basically like turning “Overdrive” off. Pretty sure it also locks up the torque converter**

Once you shift into a different gear, you’re in “manual mode,” whatever that means for an automatic car.

**I have an ‘07 Tundra work truck that stutters on acceleration around 38-40mph. Pretty sure it’s an issue with the torque converter, so I just drive in S mode around the city. This eliminates the stutter, so I assume S mode locks up the TC.

I think ECT mode just makes the car shift at higher RPMs for added power. You still get the full range of gears.
ECT setting does tell the trans to hold gears longer.

S mode doesn’t turn off over drive. It sets the max gear the trans will shift into. The trans/engine will eventually protect itself in a major over-rev, but the function is to set the max gear. I don’t believe it forces the TC to lock, but most likely the condition of being at a higher rev range than normal for a given gear probably induces a TC locked condition.

This is the description from the manual.

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ECT setting does tell the trans to hold gears longer.

S mode doesn’t turn off over drive. It sets the max gear the trans will shift into. The trans/engine will eventually protect itself in a major over-rev, but the function is to set the max gear. I don’t believe it forces the TC to lock, but most likely the condition of being at a higher rev range than normal for a given gear probably induces a TC locked condition.

This is the description from the manual.

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I need to dive deeper into the OBD Fusion dashboards - pretty sure I’ve seen someone (possibly you?) post something with a TC status indicator. I’d like to learn more about that.

I suppose you’re technically correct about S mode and overdrive, per the manual. In practice, moving to S mode with no further shifting has been locking out the overdrive gears since the ‘03 LC - same year they killed the “O/D Off” button. If that’s not effectively “overdrive off,” I don’t know what is.
 
I need to dive deeper into the OBD Fusion dashboards - pretty sure I’ve seen someone (possibly you?) post something with a TC status indicator. I’d like to learn more about that.

I suppose you’re technically correct about S mode and overdrive, per the manual. In practice, moving to S mode with no further shifting has been locking out the overdrive gears since the ‘03 LC - same year they killed the “O/D Off” button. If that’s not effectively “overdrive off,” I don’t know what is.
It’s in my dashboard, though someone else came up with the idea. There’s an “transmission indicator of the lockup position” or something like that which is either 0 or 1. I created a second dial larger than the gear number, positioned it behind the gear number dial, and I have it turn green when it locks up, which in effect creates a green ring
 
It’s in my dashboard, though someone else came up with the idea. There’s an “transmission indicator of the lockup position” or something like that which is either 0 or 1. I created a second dial larger than the gear number, positioned it behind the gear number dial, and I have it turn green when it locks up, which in effect creates a green ring
Solid! Thanks
 
After much search (directly on MUD and via Google pointed at MUD) I have not found much info on replacing body mount bushings. Is it worth the effort? When does it become necessary? (pics related; they are the fronts, rears look better) And is this one of those 'while you're in there, replace all the bits' cases? Replace them all, or only the skunky ones? How many horse powers do you gain by doing this/how many more MPGs does this add? etc. TYIA for insights.

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Your searches didn’t turn up anything because replacing them is not normally necessary. They all look like yours after a while and still function fine. It would be a loss of about 4mpg and 50HP if replaced.
 
I need to dive deeper into the OBD Fusion dashboards - pretty sure I’ve seen someone (possibly you?) post something with a TC status indicator. I’d like to learn more about that.

I suppose you’re technically correct about S mode and overdrive, per the manual. In practice, moving to S mode with no further shifting has been locking out the overdrive gears since the ‘03 LC - same year they killed the “O/D Off” button. If that’s not effectively “overdrive off,” I don’t know what is.
There is no overdrive gear in a 200, and probably not in a 100. I suspect the overdrive off button just kept the truck from going into its highest gear. so a less performant version of the S modes of the 200 series. It might have also simulated the same effect as the ECT power button with holding any gear longer rather than upshifting quickly to get to the lowest RPM possible. I never had a 100, so not sure, and I can’t remember if my 5 speed automatic 1st gen Tundra had anything similar.

And yes, my shared dashboard also has the TC lockup indicator. I definitely also stole it from someone else’s shared dashboard.
 
There is no overdrive gear in a 200, and probably not in a 100. I suspect the overdrive off button just kept the truck from going into its highest gear. so a less performant version of the S modes of the 200 series. It might have also simulated the same effect as the ECT power button with holding any gear longer rather than upshifting quickly to get to the lowest RPM possible. I never had a 100, so not sure, and I can’t remember if my 5 speed automatic 1st gen Tundra had anything similar.

And yes, my shared dashboard also has the TC lockup indicator. I definitely also stole it from someone else’s shared dashboard.
No overdrive in a 100 or 200? This makes the 80+ pages of the Towing mega thread even more confusing. Lots of mention of Overdrive throughout without incident. Seems like Overdrive is defined as anything above 1:1 ratio there. Curious if that fits your definition?

FWIW My 2000 LC (4 spd) had an O/D off button on the shift knob.
 
No overdrive in a 100 or 200? This makes the 80+ pages of the Towing mega thread even more confusing. Lots of mention of Overdrive throughout without incident. Seems like Overdrive is defined as anything above 1:1 ratio there. Curious if that fits your definition?

FWIW My 2000 LC (4 spd) had an O/D off button on the shift knob.
Sorry, I was reading what you were saying as you thought overdrive was some special mode for the transmission, as in more special than just being in top gear. There was a time when drivetrains actually had a separate unit between the trans and rear axle that allowed you to change gear ratio. That’s what I would call overdrive, but i certainly have no issue with calling a gear that is lower than 1:1 ratio overdrive (obviously Toyota agreed). Just seems like it muddies the water compared to calling it top gear, when people are asking about functionality.
 

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