This filter has no hope for what I bring.
Good to know! Thank you! I'm hoping I can get my ham hands under there without unbolting the seats.
I'm hoping to avoid this, but good to know it's as simple as this should it be necessary. Thank you!
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter JamesC
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I'm considering buying a new set of LCAs since the bushing in mine are showing some age and there's a 25% off plus free shipping deal through Monday from Decatur Toyota. How hard is it to pop off the lower ball joint from the lower mount? The FSM calls for using an SST. With the UCA I just hit the side of the old UCA with a 2# hammer, but that's probably not the preferred method and in this case the threaded part drops in from the top. Any recommendations on a BJ separator that isn't $1500? I bought a cheap one off Amazon to do the upper joint years ago and it broke (which led to me hitting it old school with a hammer).
I'd just buy new lower mounts since those unbolt from the hub easily if they were cheap, but really I can't a reason to spend $150 on those parts since they don't really wear out.
I'd just buy new lower mounts since those unbolt from the hub easily if they were cheap, but really I can't a reason to spend $150 on those parts since they don't really wear out.
I haven't done it on a 200, but on everything else a little "love tap" from your BFH should work just fine.
Be sure to leave the nut on, loosened, but at least half threaded, to avoid any excitement.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Any 2 jaw puller rented from the autoparts store will work just fine, it actually comes off fairly easily
Heh, apparently any one will work except this one I bought, which is the one I snapped the arm in half first use.
Ok yeah it's not a 2 jaw puller, it's a single arm, I just couldn't resist replying. FWIW I rarely write Amazon reviews but in this case I did back in 2017.
Check out this Amazon review of ATP Ball Joint Separator Universal Ball Joint Removal Tool Tie Rod Removal Tool
Pin sheered off during first use.
www.amazon.com
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Heh, apparently any one will work except this one I bought, which is the one I snapped the arm in half first use.
Ok yeah it's not a 2 jaw puller, it's a single arm, I just couldn't resist replying. FWIW I rarely write Amazon reviews but in this case I did back in 2017.
Check out this Amazon review of ATP Ball Joint Separator Universal Ball Joint Removal Tool Tie Rod Removal Tool
Pin sheered off during first use.www.amazon.com
Those kinds always freak me out! I’m just waiting for them to snap and take my eye out
Yeah it freaked me out too. Initially I went cheap thinking "I'm only going to need to use this a couple times". Then it sheered off and didn't make it through one use.
teejnut
SILVER Star
Does Toyota sell the LCA BJ? I thought they didn't. At least for my previous GX I replaced the entire LCA...
They don’t but you can buy they from cruiseroutfitters. However my LBJs are fine, it’s the sleeved bushings that are cracking a bit and the sleeve is separating from the bushing. A new pair of bushings is like $150 so might as well drop $230 on sale and get the full arm with bushings and new BJs installed. If anyone wants my old arms to R&R once I’m done you’re welcome to them
Is there a good thread breaking down the difference between the mark Levinson and standard 9 speaker setup for the 08-11 lx? I thought the lx I bought would have had the ML given the spec but looks like the original owners opted to stick with the standard stereo and tick every other box.
bloc
SILVER Star
A pitman arm puller works great for the UBJ, I can get the size and part number of the tool I use, no love taps required. On the lower we’re fortunate in that the bridge separates from the knuckle giving plenty of room to work. I’d have to see what the parts store offers but I guarantee there’s a good option without resorting to the SST.
That lever style tool you used is for places with little clearance and much smaller ball joints, like on fwd compact cars, especially European ones.
Thanks. Yeah I realized after it arrived that it wasn’t ideal. I didn’t think it would snap in two though.
Worst case I can remove the lower portion from the hub and then pry it apart on the garage floor if needed. But I always like excuses to buy the right tools…
bloc
SILVER Star
Yeah I forget I’m the only person that refers to the lower part as the ball joint “bridge”
Worst case bring the whole LCA to the parts store to see what they rent..
Can you burn them out? Once it’s off the truck?
Does anybody know of another crossbar for the LC rails other than OEM and LFD that sits at the same level as the OEM bars?
OEM lacks holes to put bolts and the like through and LFD sit too proud above the rails. I wish LFD had made them flush with the OEM bars.
Ultimately, I know I can drill into the OEM bars but would like to avoid that.
OEM lacks holes to put bolts and the like through and LFD sit too proud above the rails. I wish LFD had made them flush with the OEM bars.
Ultimately, I know I can drill into the OEM bars but would like to avoid that.
I thought the OEM bars sit higher than the LFD bars ultimiately because they are arc shaped. So in the center they are probably higher.
Also, this option:
Get more from your factory roof rack with t-slotted aluminum (8020)
Hey gang, In the summer I keep an XL Thule box on top, plus maxtrax, shovel, and a pop-up shelter that I hope to replace with a fixed awning. Someday I want to get a Gobi or FrontRunner rack for my 570. But today ain’t that day. One common improvement is extra crossbars. But rather than do...
forum.ih8mud.com
Previous owner had the windshield replaced by someone who didn’t know 200 series, now my moulding is not flush. Any quick way to tell if the moulding is bent beyond use or if I can salvage it by trying to get the clips to seat?
Yeah, the LFD might actually be lower at the center because of that arc. But I meant I was looking for cross bars that are lower at the edges near the rails. Really, it's just an esthetic thing for me. I try to keep the look as stock as possible – even though that horse left the barn a while ago for my LC.I thought the OEM bars sit higher than the LFD bars ultimiately because they are arc shaped. So in the center they are probably higher.
Also, this option:
Get more from your factory roof rack with t-slotted aluminum (8020)
Hey gang, In the summer I keep an XL Thule box on top, plus maxtrax, shovel, and a pop-up shelter that I hope to replace with a fixed awning. Someday I want to get a Gobi or FrontRunner rack for my 570. But today ain’t that day. One common improvement is extra crossbars. But rather than do...
But that link is gold! Thank you! It’s exactly what I am looking for.
I have searched this forum extensively for something like that but must have been using the wrong wording.
We got some nice weather this weekend and I was able to work on the high pressure power steering line. It is fairly an easy job. Main tool needed is a 17mm crowsfoot with roughly an 8"-10" extension. Best access point to get to the hard line in the steering rack is from the drivers side front wheel well. I have atached pics below showing the crowfoot with the extension.
I'd check Amazon for the extruded pieces now. It's more readily available from lots of vendors than it used to be and much better pricing than the websites like tnutz and 8020.
