SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (6 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

My low fuel light comes on at 19.5.

@Markuson said he’s put a full 25 gallons in before. I’ve never tried to go full Kramer on my tank though, and the 23.9 was the result of going through 3 towns on the way from Abilene to Oklahoma which had no stations.

Yep.
What I described way back when… was the time I literally *coasted* into the gas station after the engine cut off without fuel….and then pumped *beyond* the full 24.6 main tank capacity. So yep. The tanks hold what the spec claims…plus (I assume) the fill-tube space, etc.

I’ve also verified that my Aux tanks holds what it says it holds.

It’s funny how often the warning light warning light question comes up with confusion about remaining fuel.
Its been consistently established that dropping to about 4 - 4.5 gallons triggers the light. Definitely not an exact amount of course… 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
2013 LX570

I have a garage that is pretty tight and I accidentally swiped my driver side mirror on the wall backing in. It bent it forward and the glass popped out.

Luckily, it appears to be working just fine actuator wise. I will need to replace the turn signal as that cracked but the housing seems to be okay as well.

Questions - what part of the mirror needs to come off to get to the side marker? Also, is there an easier way to put the glass back in other than lining up about 7 different holes? If you've done this before you probably know exactly what I'm talking about
 
Actually, it looks like I took part of the actuator assembly with it (the white part behind the mirror). I guess I'll be ordering that...
 
2013 LX570

I have a garage that is pretty tight and I accidentally swiped my driver side mirror on the wall backing in. It bent it forward and the glass popped out.

Luckily, it appears to be working just fine actuator wise. I will need to replace the turn signal as that cracked but the housing seems to be okay as well.

Questions - what part of the mirror needs to come off to get to the side marker? Also, is there an easier way to put the glass back in other than lining up about 7 different holes? If you've done this before you probably know exactly what I'm talking about
I can’t answer the glass question, but I can answer the turn signal question, assuming the mirror assembly is similar to a 2016 Land Cruiser. The painted part of the mirror pops off along the black frame. There are 4 or 5 hooked tabs that snap in. Use a really thin trim tool of a putty knife, taped up to unseat the tabs. The painted cover can be bought from the parts department pre painted if you want to replace it. The turn signal is a separate part and screws down with a couple of screws and an electrical plug, about $70 from the dealership.

IMG_1674.jpeg


IMG_1675.jpeg
 
I hope to baseline my new-too-me 2018 LX.
Would it be ok to mix used engine oil, gear oil, transmission fluid, AHC fluid?
Would autozone take all these fluids, mixed or not? I know they would happily help to dispose used engine oil.
 
I hope to baseline my new-too-me 2018 LX.
Would it be ok to mix used engine oil, gear oil, transmission fluid, AHC fluid?
Would autozone take all these fluids, mixed or not? I know they would happily help to dispose used engine oil.
Yes, those are fine to mix and should be accepted as such at any recycling facility without issue.
 
I hope to baseline my new-too-me 2018 LX.
Would it be ok to mix used engine oil, gear oil, transmission fluid, AHC fluid?
Would autozone take all these fluids, mixed or not? I know they would happily help to dispose used engine oil.

I’m not sure whether it’s regional but I’ve found autozone much easier to deal with than oreilly on the used fluids. The O has refused to accept atf before, whereas autozone doesn’t even ask me what it is, just once in a while whether it’s contaminated with water.

I also like that they let me do the dumping myself as I’m somewhat OCD about keeping the container outside as clean as possible for transport inside my 200.

All of that said yes a good parts place will accept most of that mixed without issue.
 
Thank you @bryson and @bloc

More questions:
1) Shall I apply Loctite blue 242 on almost everything, since they shake/vibrate with the truck all the time, from spark plugs, to body armor like skid plates, sliders etc? The main concern I see for body armor is we need to put all the screws in, check fit and adjust, before we torque them to finish the installation, which will take longer than 10mins. Is it okay to keep tightening the screws after Loctite blue has set in (~10min) but before fully cured (24hours)? // maybe not the drain plugs for which I apply a touch of whatever oil/liquid.

2) Does FRONT RUNNER OUTFITTERS have predictable sales around the year? Hope to get some typhoon bags before June.
 
Thank you @bryson and @bloc

More questions:
1) Shall I apply Loctite blue 242 on almost everything, since they shake/vibrate with the truck all the time, from spark plugs, to body armor like skid plates, sliders etc? The main concern I see for body armor is we need to put all the screws in, check fit and adjust, before we torque them to finish the installation, which will take longer than 10mins. Is it okay to keep tightening the screws after Loctite blue has set in (~10min) but before fully cured (24hours)? // maybe not the drain plugs for which I apply a touch of whatever oil/liquid.

2) Does FRONT RUNNER OUTFITTERS have predictable sales around the year? Hope to get some typhoon bags before June.

I've never put locktite on any of the things you mentioned. In fact with the skid plates and sliders I believe I put on some anti-sieze.
 
I've never put locktite on any of the things you mentioned. In fact with the skid plates and sliders I believe I put on some anti-sieze.

Agreed. Only where called for in the manual (or aftermarket part instructions), and that is extremely few places. On a vehicle designed to bash around Africa..
 
Thanks both; glad i asked and have my "common sense" corrected (not sure where I picked up that idea)
 
I've been looking hard at a 2018 LX and ran across the fact that the RSCA switch was deleted in 2018.

Is this an issue if I intend to offroad it? Has anyone experienced air bag deployment on a 2018+ LX or LC without the switch? All the threads I have found just kind of trail off with no real conclusion.
 
I've been looking hard at a 2018 LX and ran across the fact that the RSCA switch was deleted in 2018.

Is this an issue if I intend to offroad it? Has anyone experienced air bag deployment on a 2018+ LX or LC without the switch? All the threads I have found just kind of trail off with no real conclusion.

I kinda forgot mine had a switch if that’s any consolation. I don’t know if any accidental air bag deployments.
 
I kinda forgot mine had a switch if that’s any consolation. I don’t know if any accidental air bag deployments.
I almost always forget to hit that switch when I'm off road...
 
I seem to have vomited a quart of oil last night... No it's not a drinking problem.

Steering rack was replaced 2 weeks ago. My gut says the mechanic didn't tighten something, but I'm not sure what it would be.

My SQOD - aside from a double-O ring on the oil filter (oil was changed ~1500 miles ago back in ~Sept I think) any idea where this came from? Ignore the location on the floor as that's just an artifact of the skid having a slight angle and the puddle of oil running back - the issue is somewhere up front (see second photo) as I can see oil dripping off the hose behind the oil filter, oil was dripping down the filter door on the skid, etc.

I've had a timing cover leak for a while but it's just been a slight seep.. nothing on the floor or skid up until now, so unless the FIPG completely gave out that seems unlikely. I do see oil on the large bolts on the oil cooler housing but I couldn't see exactly what's above/around it.

I had the truck flatbed towed to the dealer because it seemed to be more than a drip and driving 30 minutes is probably unwise. Didn't have time to drop the skid and investigate further as I had meetings this morning. Oil was just barely at the bottom tip of the dipstick.. no oil pressure or low oil level warnings, thankfully. Glad I caught this before making a 3 hour trip this weekend...

1707323165630.png

1707323373796.png
 
I seem to have vomited a quart of oil last night... No it's not a drinking problem.

Steering rack was replaced 2 weeks ago. My gut says the mechanic didn't tighten something, but I'm not sure what it would be.

My SQOD - aside from a double-O ring on the oil filter (oil was changed ~1500 miles ago back in ~Sept I think) any idea where this came from? Ignore the location on the floor as that's just an artifact of the skid having a slight angle and the puddle of oil running back - the issue is somewhere up front (see second photo) as I can see oil dripping off the hose behind the oil filter, oil was dripping down the filter door on the skid, etc.

I've had a timing cover leak for a while but it's just been a slight seep.. nothing on the floor or skid up until now, so unless the FIPG completely gave out that seems unlikely. I do see oil on the large bolts on the oil cooler housing but I couldn't see exactly what's above/around it.

I had the truck flatbed towed to the dealer because it seemed to be more than a drip and driving 30 minutes is probably unwise. Didn't have time to drop the skid and investigate further as I had meetings this morning. Oil was just barely at the bottom tip of the dipstick.. no oil pressure or low oil level warnings, thankfully. Glad I caught this before making a 3 hour trip this weekend...

View attachment 3552503
View attachment 3552506

Bummer. Is it definitely engine oil? Or ATF from power steering? Could also be gear oil?
 
Bummer. Is it definitely engine oil? Or ATF from power steering? Could also be gear oil?
Definitely smells like engine oil. And definitely gold/brown, not red. And I'm definitely over a quart shy... it's below the bottom dot on the dipstick, just barely on the tip.
 
Hey everyone, I need to replace my high pressure steering line part # 44410-60710. Has anyone replaced this before? If so, any tips or tricks to get the union nut (don't know if that's what it is called) that goes into the steering rack assembly out and back in? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!
Toyota 44410-60710
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom