SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (18 Viewers)

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If I have an actual puncture I prefer to stick to the gooey rope strip things that I've used with 100% success for a couple decades. In my head at least, these don't disturb the cords as much as the metal core of those rubber screws from the repeated impacts with the road.
Same here. My fix was for a short screw on the edge of the tread. It wasn’t leaking when I took it out, but I found those repair screw plugs. I added extra compound when I inserted the plug.
 
Same here. My fix was for a short screw on the edge of the tread. It wasn’t leaking when I took it out, but I found those repair screw plugs. I added extra compound when I inserted the plug.
Personally if something wasn’t leaking I wouldn’t mess with it at all.
 
Is there a specific thread/video/info link for transmission fluid replacement for 2016+ (MY 2021 specifically)? I know earlier ones had a thermostat bypass need (paperclip hack), but thought the later models didn't have this. TIA.

This is the only video I've found for the 8 speed and he only does a drain and fill. Be warned he does the entire video in his sexy whisper lol

But you are correct there is no thermostat bypass needed on the 8 speed. Also I remember reading somewhere that the radiator return line is the bottom line instead of the top line as it was on older models. I've got all the parts on the shelf but haven't gotten around to changing mine yet so I can't confirm.
 
Question:

Dealership saying my truck's transmission is slipping going from 2nd to 3rd gear. 2021 with 27k miles. Claiming my transmission fluid smelled "burnt" when drained as well. They're currently in the process of dropping the transmission pan. Tranny was already flushed once.

Was the 2nd to 3rd gear slipping thing an issue with the 18/19 model years? Unsure of where this issue could have come from.
 
Question:

Dealership saying my truck's transmission is slipping going from 2nd to 3rd gear. 2021 with 27k miles. Claiming my transmission fluid smelled "burnt" when drained as well. They're currently in the process of dropping the transmission pan. Tranny was already flushed once.

Was the 2nd to 3rd gear slipping thing an issue with the 18/19 model years? Unsure of where this issue could have come from.
"flushed" as in fluid/solvent forced through it? Or just a fluid exchange where they hook up a machine and replace the fluid as it is pumped out of the pan..
 
"flushed" as in fluid/solvent forced through it? Or just a fluid exchange where they hook up a machine and replace the fluid as it is pumped out of the pan..
Unsure, but probably the former. Was in an accident where the front end was damaged and oil cooler dumped everything. They're now trying to say that this was caused by the vehicle being put on a tow truck and pushed off the tow truck without any oil in the transmission.
 
Unsure, but probably the former. Was in an accident where the front end was damaged and oil cooler dumped everything. They're now trying to say that this was caused by the vehicle being put on a tow truck and pushed off the tow truck without any oil in the transmission.
If the engine wasn’t running and transmission in neutral when that happened there is absolutely no harm that can come from it.
 
If the engine wasn’t running and transmission in neutral when that happened there is absolutely no harm that can come from it.
This is what I've reiterated with them, but sounds like I'm going to have a fight on my hands. They're trying to blame the accident, I'm trying to say if anything is wrong it needs to be a warranty claim. Just was hoping for someone else who is more mechanically inclined to deny/confirm my thoughts.
 
This is the only video I've found for the 8 speed and he only does a drain and fill. Be warned he does the entire video in his sexy whisper lol

But you are correct there is no thermostat bypass needed on the 8 speed. Also I remember reading somewhere that the radiator return line is the bottom line instead of the top line as it was on older models. I've got all the parts on the shelf but haven't gotten around to changing mine yet so I can't confirm.
Thanks for the heads up. I will have to figure out what exactly I can glean without the sound....
 
This is what I've reiterated with them, but sounds like I'm going to have a fight on my hands. They're trying to blame the accident, I'm trying to say if anything is wrong it needs to be a warranty claim. Just was hoping for someone else who is more mechanically inclined to deny/confirm my thoughts.
If the transmission was not in gear then there's no damage to it from loading it onto the truck without fluid in it.

That said if you do end up with a fight on your hands, you may need a lawyer and to hire an independent mechanic as an expert witness willing to testify that the dealership is full of sh*t.
 
This is what I've reiterated with them, but sounds like I'm going to have a fight on my hands. They're trying to blame the accident, I'm trying to say if anything is wrong it needs to be a warranty claim. Just was hoping for someone else who is more mechanically inclined to deny/confirm my thoughts.

If the wrecker tried to drive it onto the flat-bed under it's own power, yes it could absolutely burn things up.

Did they keep any of the old fluid? I'd want to grab a used oil analysis of it if possible.
 
If the wrecker tried to drive it onto the flat-bed under it's own power, yes it could absolutely burn things up.

Did they keep any of the old fluid? I'd want to grab a used oil analysis of it if possible.
Was not driven, winched on while in neutral.

No old oil kept, but they said that it "smelled burnt" when it was drained.
 
Fluid may well have been burnt if the transmission was slipping. If they're going to claim the bands are burnt and it's slipping I would ask them to go through the FSM and report back the results of the stall speed test and the other tests.

Not sure the dates/mileage history of the prior flush, the accident, and this service so it's hard to say where your issue started, but if there's a period between the accident and this service where things seemed fine then it's hard to believe the tow truck operator destroyed the transmission as you would have noticed that right away once you were driving it again

BTW low fluid level will cause slipping, so I'd make sure the level was right before trusting that dealer If the last flush was recent it's entirely possible they neglected to fill the transmission correctly and they're trying to CYA.
 
Fluid may well have been burnt if the transmission was slipping. If they're going to claim the bands are burnt and it's slipping I would ask them to go through the FSM and report back the results of the stall speed test and the other tests.

Not sure the dates/mileage history of the prior flush, the accident, and this service so it's hard to say where your issue started, but if there's a period between the accident and this service where things seemed fine then it's hard to believe the tow truck operator destroyed the transmission as you would have noticed that right away once you were driving it again

BTW low fluid level will cause slipping, so I'd make sure the level was right before trusting that dealer If the last flush was recent it's entirely possible they neglected to fill the transmission correctly and they're trying to CYA.
-2021 Heritage. 27000 miles. Standard maintenance by the toyota manual, I did my own oil changes.
-Accident happened June 30th. From accident to drop off, the vehicle was only moved in neutral to be winched onto the tow truck, and then winched off the tow truck.
-My collision rep told me that toyota drove the vehicle from where I had dropped it to the service bay after "installing a bypass around the oil cooler".
-I picked up the repaired vehicle from service on October 6th. They had "flushed the transmission" during the repair of my vehicle because the engine was throwing codes related to the solenoids and because they had to replace my oil cooler from my front end accident. No transmission slip noted by anyone during the insurance repair nor during my test drive before accepting the vehicle back.
-I drove the vehicle the weekend of 7/8/9 October and noticed a "ticking sound" at low speeds like something was in my tire. checked my tires and nothing there. I never felt anything different from previous driving during this 3 day period where I put about 150 miles on the vehicle via highway driving.
-Returned the vehicle to toyota Carlsbad collision center on 10 October to diagnose the ticking noise.
-Called on 11 October to say my transmission was slipping. This "slipping" was confirmed by two master techs at the toyota service center, both have 20+ years of experience. Collision GM also said it was very noticeable.
-They're dropping the transmission pan today, expect an update this morning/afternoon.

I'm trying to say that this should be a warranty claim not an insurance claim.
 
I'm trying to say that this should be a warranty claim not an insurance claim.

Agreed.

After the accident did the engine shut down? Or stay running pumping out fluid?

The bypass is plausible.. just put some nipples and rubber hose in place to eliminate the leaking cooler. Here’s my issue.. often communication from the service writer to whoever moved the vehicle isn’t great and it’s totally plausible they went out there to move it without any knowledge of or effort to do the bypass or top up previously lost fluid initially. Until it made a huge mess and wouldn’t move. 100% speculation, but could explain the problem.

I agree with @linuxgod you may need to get a third party mechanic involved to back up the true claim that movement in neutral won’t harm anything. The dealer owes you a transmission.
 
Agreed.

After the accident did the engine shut down? Or stay running pumping out fluid?

The bypass is plausible.. just put some nipples and rubber hose in place to eliminate the leaking cooler. Here’s my issue.. often communication from the service writer to whoever moved the vehicle isn’t great and it’s totally plausible they went out there to move it without any knowledge of or effort to do the bypass or top up previously lost fluid initially. Until it made a huge mess and wouldn’t move. 100% speculation, but could explain the problem.

I agree with @linuxgod you may need to get a third party mechanic involved to back up the true claim that movement in neutral won’t harm anything. The dealer owes you a transmission.

After I got into my accident I shut down the engine. Was only put into accessory mode to enable the vehicle to be put into neutral via the "key in the slot" method.
 
...
-My collision rep told me that toyota drove the vehicle from where I had dropped it to the service bay after "installing a bypass around the oil cooler".
-I picked up the repaired vehicle from service on October 6th. They had "flushed the transmission" during the repair of my vehicle because the engine was throwing codes related to the solenoids and because they had to replace my oil cooler from my front end accident. .
..
I'm trying to say that this should be a warranty claim not an insurance claim.
If you have full coverage for the accident, honestly I'd call the insurance company and also complain to the dealer manager and then let them sort it out. If the tow truck operator screwed up (by the dealer's description) then the insurance company should cover it as it's part of the accident. If the dealer's description is a crock of sh*t then the insurance company should call them out on it and make them take responsibility and warranty the repair. Either way it's fair to say it's not your responsibility.

I don't buy the dealer's explanation but it is possible that during the accident something else happened which is causing some slippage. Solenoid codes can be thrown if a solenoid has failed, but also if the valve assembly in the transmission has a crack, or probably other reasons. Could the sudden impact have broken something? Maybe?

I will say that your "clicking" noise doesn't immediately make me think transmission. I would be thinking about a bad CV first or maybe a bad bearing... could be a wheel bearing or could be something else in the drivetrain. Just my $0.02, IANACASEM (I am not a certified ASE mechanic)
 
If you have full coverage for the accident, honestly I'd call the insurance company and also complain to the dealer manager and then let them sort it out. If the tow truck operator screwed up (by the dealer's description) then the insurance company should cover it as it's part of the accident. If the dealer's description is a crock of sh*t then the insurance company should call them out on it and make them take responsibility and warranty the repair. Either way it's fair to say it's not your responsibility.

I don't buy the dealer's explanation but it is possible that during the accident something else happened which is causing some slippage. Solenoid codes can be thrown if a solenoid has failed, but also if the valve assembly in the transmission has a crack, or probably other reasons. Could the sudden impact have broken something? Maybe?

I will say that your "clicking" noise doesn't immediately make me think transmission. I would be thinking about a bad CV first or maybe a bad bearing... could be a wheel bearing or could be something else in the drivetrain. Just my $0.02, IANACASEM (I am not a certified ASE mechanic)
Have full coverage, my insurance adjuster has authorized the investigation. But I've told the collision manager several times, "I don't care who is paying for this, but I'm not paying a cent out of pocket".

Impact wasn't serious on my accident, had the literal bumper cover ripped off at a 90 degree angle, no airbags, no nothing. Just ripped off the very front end, bumper support bar not impacted. Lots of damage to the electronics and sensors.

I also don't think the click is the transmission. They told me they still hadn't solved the issue with the clicking, I too think it could be a CV but unsure.
 
Have full coverage, my insurance adjuster has authorized the investigation. But I've told the collision manager several times, "I don't care who is paying for this, but I'm not paying a cent out of pocket".

Impact wasn't serious on my accident, had the literal bumper cover ripped off at a 90 degree angle, no airbags, no nothing. Just ripped off the very front end, bumper support bar not impacted. Lots of damage to the electronics and sensors.

I also don't think the click is the transmission. They told me they still hadn't solved the issue with the clicking, I too think it could be a CV but unsure.
CVs tend to click when turning because it’s the ball bearings which aren’t smooth rotating in the cage. When the wheel is straight the bearings aren’t turning nearly as much. Not that they can’t click when going straight, it’s just less common.

Lots of other possible reasons for clicking, like a bent brake shield contacting the rotor. If it’s periodic to wheel speed vs variable that can help track it down. Something like a bent brake shield would be easy to find on a lift though.
 
CVs tend to click when turning because it’s the ball bearings which aren’t smooth rotating in the cage. When the wheel is straight the bearings aren’t turning nearly as much. Not that they can’t click when going straight, it’s just less common.

Lots of other possible reasons for clicking, like a bent brake shield contacting the rotor. If it’s periodic to wheel speed vs variable that can help track it down. Something like a bent brake shield would be easy to find on a lift though.
caused by wheel speed, gets faster and faster and then after ~20mph no longer there or drowned out by the hum of my all terrains.
 

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