I bought the flea-bay ones. I’ll report back on quality when they arrive.
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (18 Viewers)
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The OEM ones cost me less than $7.00 each, and were in stock... Why even bother with the more expensive knockoffs?
Quick Q, I swear I saw someone on here recommend an aussie company that could do aftermarket wheels made to order but for the life of me have no recollection of the company or able to find anything in my emails or online... if anyone has an answer that would be great. Not even for a LX/LC but for another vehicle as I need a 5x160 with an ET less than +40 and centre hole of around 108mm.
Would have been for a set of EvoCorse wheels.
*edit* and just like that I found the company.. always happens once you ask.
Would have been for a set of EvoCorse wheels.
*edit* and just like that I found the company.. always happens once you ask.
Last edited:
elcie200
SILVER Star
2013 LC. I want to run a dash am wire from the liftgate to the front windshield.
Two Three "stupid" questions:
1. Does the rubber seal at the rear of the cargo area just pull off, or do I need to loosen/remove d-pillar panels first? (I know I have to go thru the little "boot" that links the roof to the liftgate.)
2. Given the choice of running the wire across the top of the headliner vs tucking it between the headliner and trim panels, what would you choose?
3. Anything I should look out for?
Thanks!
1. Does the rubber seal at the rear of the cargo area just pull off, or do I need to loosen/remove d-pillar panels first? (I know I have to go thru the little "boot" that links the roof to the liftgate.)
2. Given the choice of running the wire across the top of the headliner vs tucking it between the headliner and trim panels, what would you choose?
3. Anything I should look out for?
Thanks!
CharlieS
GOLD Star
The rear hatch rubber bulb seal pulls right off. They always seem to have some black sticky goo on them, so be mindful, especially if you have a light colored headliner. No need to remove or loosen internal trim panels to get the rubber trim out.
However, to get to the little rubber passthrough boot, you do need to remove more - upper seatbelt anchors, interior upper cargo trim, roof seatbelt and trim (maybe more, it has been a hot minute since I was in there last). There are several typical plastic trim fasteners along the back edge and around the roof seatbelt trim that you need to pop, and if you aren't careful, you could damage the headliner. Trim panel plier tools help immensely here.
I'd run wires along the door sills myself, but I suppose there's no harm in running them along the headliner or between the headliner and panels. In either case, I'd be cautious of loose 12v+ wires and chafing creating risk of a short. If the wire isn't attached to something every now and again it can move around and chafe; if it is jammed between other trim panels that move with body flex, it can chafe. I'm not a fan of wires flopping around on my installs. I prefer tidy wire management wherever possible.
However, to get to the little rubber passthrough boot, you do need to remove more - upper seatbelt anchors, interior upper cargo trim, roof seatbelt and trim (maybe more, it has been a hot minute since I was in there last). There are several typical plastic trim fasteners along the back edge and around the roof seatbelt trim that you need to pop, and if you aren't careful, you could damage the headliner. Trim panel plier tools help immensely here.
I'd run wires along the door sills myself, but I suppose there's no harm in running them along the headliner or between the headliner and panels. In either case, I'd be cautious of loose 12v+ wires and chafing creating risk of a short. If the wire isn't attached to something every now and again it can move around and chafe; if it is jammed between other trim panels that move with body flex, it can chafe. I'm not a fan of wires flopping around on my installs. I prefer tidy wire management wherever possible.
more space in the right (US passenger) side floor rails/sills vs the driver side.
To make your choice more difficult (
) there's also option 3: run the wire down to the floor, along the door sills, and up the a-pillar.
elcie200
SILVER Star
Thanks great info! So passenger door sills... And the goo.To make your choice more difficult (
Fourth question: Im pretty sure I can get from the a-pillar thru the second row. Does the third row (and drawers) need to come out to route thru the cargo area to the liftgate? Or is it possible to fish the wire thru the cargo area section?
I ran 2ga from the engine bay, along the passenger side door sills, to the rear cargo area (storage cubby on passenger side). For this I had to pry back, but not fully remove the passenger side, vertical, plastic side cover in the cargo. You may be able to get away without doing that for a thinner wire, but in the interest of doing a clean job and avoid possible tears/chafing issues, removing the drawers and prying back the plastic may be the better option.
Details of what I did start with this post: Builds - eatSleepWoof's '14 LX - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/eatsleepwoofs-14-lx.1112565/page-15#post-13367374
elcie200
SILVER Star
Update.
1. The goo is no joke. It's "inside the rubber weatherstripping channe"l that slips/pinches over the metal, so gets on the body/metal lip. Avoiding it is like that game "operation". OR be sure to wipe it off before futzing with the headliner.
2. Quickly abandoned the "over the headliner" idea.
3. Went with the advised "a-pillar to floor channel". For time expediency, went up c(?) Pillar (rear side of the second row) and ...
Promptly ran out of cable hahaha.
Apparently, rearview mirror, down a-pillar, under door sills, up the c-pillar to "mid cargo area side window" is 20'. Even if I went the floor route thru the cargo area, I'd need a few more feet of cable.
Next: I will get an extension cable ... Eventually move it from the roofline to the floor.
Thanks all for the insight/advice.
--ryan
Because I have to do nothing for them to arrive. Vs start a return process with eBay and then track down oem ones. I’m lazy.
PhuckItImDone
SILVER Star
Stupid question/problem....I rarely use the headlight washers, used them today and the passenger side won't retract. It'll spray, but doesn't go home. I can push it back in, and it'll stay, hit the button, works, just stays out. Anything I should or shouldn't do?
Markuson
SILVER Star
My 1.5 cents—
Its partly relative to *how drastically aired down* you are. If aired way down, just remember that you’ll want to avoid abrupt turns at speed, since squishy tires will add body rolll much like suspension that’s too soft.
Also remember that tires aired way down create more friction and heat in the rubber, especially with prolonged highway speed.
Some driver choose a less severe air-down level specifically so they don’t feel the need to air up every time between trail runs but that means also not airing down as far as you might normally want on some trails.
This question has wiggle room, so just be mindful of what the tires are doing and be reasonable.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Going feom memory bc my TJM bumper replaces those retracting washers with stationary…. so not sure of the following Q:
Can you also manually pull that one out without resistance? If so…you might be missing a spring that pulls with inward pressure (pulling it back in) when water pressure stops…
I don’t recall how the factory ones work but if you determine you need a replacement let me know - mine came off with my winch bumper and are just sitting in a box
PhuckItImDone
SILVER Star
No, it sits normally and I can't get anything in there without forcing it. I'll try to pry into it more tomorrow or this week.
foolforthecity
SILVER Star
Anyone else have rusting on the front license plate screw holders? I did have stainless steel screws in them but removed for the picture. Second question is this metal part easily removable? I just cannot stand to have these on the vehicle since they are rusting.
afgman786
SILVER Star
I've got one: How do you remove the panhard bar? In particular looking at the axle side mount the nut on the back end looks almost impossible to get a tool on. Is that nut welded or what trick did you use to keep that nut from spinning? I have not tried tackling this yet, but looked at it since I have play and bushings are shot I plan to replace. So if there is a trick looking for the answer before trial and error.
I haven't tried but the FSM makes it seem like you just remove the 2 bolts, nut, and washer and it'll come right out. (Step1-2 is just open the KDSS valve...) I'd assume the nut is captive/welded for the bolt in question since it says 2 bolts but then "nut", not "nuts".
afgman786
SILVER Star
Thanks, I looked at the FSM too and was feeling the same way. But looking at it I wasn't sure if that nut on the axle side is welded or not. Looked like it wasn't and just wanted to make sure I don't need anything special when I get the parts in. Even total Chaos steps don't mention anything special and just say remove 2 bolts. Install new part.
