SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (14 Viewers)

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I've got one: How do you remove the panhard bar? In particular looking at the axle side mount the nut on the back end looks almost impossible to get a tool on. Is that nut welded or what trick did you use to keep that nut from spinning? I have not tried tackling this yet, but looked at it since I have play and bushings are shot I plan to replace. So if there is a trick looking for the answer before trial and error.

Only 1 sentence there describing process, but seems fairly simple.
 
I've got one: How do you remove the panhard bar? In particular looking at the axle side mount the nut on the back end looks almost impossible to get a tool on. Is that nut welded or what trick did you use to keep that nut from spinning? I have not tried tackling this yet, but looked at it since I have play and bushings are shot I plan to replace. So if there is a trick looking for the answer before trial and error.
The nut is welded on. Removing the bolt was easy, I loosened it with a breaker bar and then used a ratchet/socket to remove the bolt. It was a simple install when I swapped out the OEM panhard for the tough dog adjustable bar. No issues with alignment with the new panhard. It has been a while since I installed it, can’t remember if I had to jack up the rear bumper (I have the Dissent offroad bumper) inorder to get the alignment right for the bolt to to slide through.
My axle was about 1/2” off, adding the adjustable panhard bar centered it up.
 
The nut is welded on. Removing the bolt was easy, I loosened it with a breaker bar and then used a ratchet/socket to remove the bolt. It was a simple install when I swapped out the OEM panhard for the tough dog adjustable bar. No issues with alignment with the new panhard. It has been a while since I installed it, can’t remember if I had to jack up the rear bumper (I have the Dissent offroad bumper) inorder to get the alignment right for the bolt to to slide through.
My axle was about 1/2” off, adding the adjustable panhard bar centered it up.
Good to know! I just ordered OEM. Refreshing everything, and panhard has a lot of play in the bushing which I think will solve my issues
 
Shredded a 2 YO tire. Any advice for how much wear is allowable on the good 3 to just replace the popped one to not cause driveline issues?
Not sure if this is helpful, but if your other tires are still in decent shape, TireRack can sell you the same tire and "shave" it down to whatever amount of tread you want to match the others.
 
Not sure if this is helpful, but if your other tires are still in decent shape, TireRack can sell you the same tire and "shave" it down to whatever amount of tread you want to match the others.
Interesting. Yes, the others are good but not new.
 
Anyone installed the OME trim packers before? Do these go on top of the bump stop between the bump stop and the frame, or do they go on top of the spring between the spring and the bump stop?
 
Anyone installed the OME trim packers before? Do these go on top of the bump stop between the bump stop and the frame, or do they go on top of the spring between the spring and the bump stop?
I have installed their 10mm trim packers. They went between the spring and bump stop. I had no trouble doubling up two to get 20mm of lift.
 
These are the ones I used.

20201008_131606.jpg
 
What’s the consensus on longer brake lines after the Tundra front end swap? Is there a simple part number from an aftermarket supplier that people find a good fit?

TIA
 
These are the ones I used.

View attachment 3027790
Thanks. I bought one in the event I need to level when I put new springs in soon, but there were no instructions. I thought they’d be installed as you suggest but I saw an OME install guide for 4Runners which said to put them on top
 
Anyone installed the OME trim packers before? Do these go on top of the bump stop between the bump stop and the frame, or do they go on top of the spring between the spring and the bump stop?
I’ve searched for an answer to this myself. I don’t know the correct answer, but it appears they’ve been installed both ways:

Post in thread 'Trim Packers / Rear Spacers who’s running them?'
Trim Packers / Rear Spacers who’s running them? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/trim-packers-rear-spacers-whos-running-them.1227019/post-13394553

I recently installed 10mm OME spacers on top of bump stop/spring isolator to preserve design gap for my airbags. Went together fine. No ill effect so far. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
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Thanks. I bought one in the event I need to level when I put new springs in soon, but there were no instructions. I thought they’d be installed as you suggest but I saw an OME install guide for 4Runners which said to put them on top
As @JAS4 mentioned I believe both ways are acceptable. I felt better installing it in between the bump stop and the spring in order to have the bump stop seat as it was designed from the factory. @TeCKis300 i believe he runs or has run spacers /packers on top of the stops. But ill let him chime in to confirm.
 
What’s the consensus on longer brake lines after the Tundra front end swap? Is there a simple part number from an aftermarket supplier that people find a good fit?

TIA

One option is to get Tundra calipers, Tundra hardline, and Tundra brake lines, and that might solve two birds with one stone sorta thing. Tundra lines are 1.6" longer. I do recall someone getting a custom long line built but I forget the vender.



As @JAS4 mentioned I believe both ways are acceptable. I felt better installing it in between the bump stop and the spring in order to have the bump stop seat as it was designed from the factory. @TeCKis300 i believe he runs or has run spacers /packers on top of the stops. But ill let him chime in to confirm.

I have had spacer both under and over, and both at the same time.

Technically, the best spot is between the bump stop and spring. Problem is that some trim packers inner diameter isn't large enough to fit over the bump stop without modifying so I've cheated before.

I wouldn't put more than say a 5mm spacer between the bump stop and chassis. It works there, but reason not to is the bump stop at the center won't be supported well when it engages on a hard bump or landing. I currently only have a 20mm spacer between the bump stop and spring.

Could almost take it out as I have airbags and they work dang well, being adjustable to suit the task at hand.
 
One option is to get Tundra calipers, Tundra hardline, and Tundra brake lines, and that might solve two birds with one stone sorta thing. Tundra lines are 1.6" longer. I do recall someone getting a custom long line built but I forget the vender.





I have had spacer both under and over, and both at the same time.

Technically, the best spot is between the bump stop and spring. Problem is that some trim packers inner diameter isn't large enough to fit over the bump stop without modifying so I've cheated before.

I wouldn't put more than say a 5mm spacer between the bump stop and chassis. It works there, but reason not to is the bump stop at the center won't be supported well when it engages on a hard bump or landing. I currently only have a 20mm spacer between the bump stop and spring.

Could almost take it out as I have airbags and they work dang well, being adjustable to suit the task at hand.
Thanks for that link. I’ll just follow your process 👌🏼
 
The nut is welded on. Removing the bolt was easy, I loosened it with a breaker bar and then used a ratchet/socket to remove the bolt. It was a simple install when I swapped out the OEM panhard for the tough dog adjustable bar. No issues with alignment with the new panhard. It has been a while since I installed it, can’t remember if I had to jack up the rear bumper (I have the Dissent offroad bumper) inorder to get the alignment right for the bolt to to slide through.
My axle was about 1/2” off, adding the adjustable panhard bar centered it up.

So looks like my welds are no longer there anymore.. The nut just spins. This will be fun
 
So looks like my welds are no longer there anymore.. The nut just spins. This will be fun
Wire brush it and tack it back on with flux core mig or a stick welder that can handle a slightly dirty weld?
 
So looks like my welds are no longer there anymore.. The nut just spins. This will be fun
Wow! That sounds like something i would manage to do lol. I dont think youll have any trouble removing the nut and bolt now. Probably could get away without welding it back on but if you have acess to a welder I would get it tacked on.
 
Shredded a 2 YO tire. Any advice for how much wear is allowable on the good 3 to just replace the popped one to not cause driveline issues?

So long as you have a factory differential, replacing with a new tire will not cause harm. No need to shave it down either.
 
So long as you have a factory differential, replacing with a new tire will not cause harm. No need to shave it down either.
Too late. 😆 Read different things from different manufacturers. Was a little over 30% wear. More than I was comfortable with to run a new, odd tire, but too much life on the others to justify dumping the set.
7B18002B-6608-4500-B229-72CB1B3379E8.jpeg

Just arrived. Added $20 to the tire for some piece of mind. Really wanted to have an excuse to just buy a whole new set of tires, but I will put off that cost for at least a few more years.
 
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