SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (31 Viewers)

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Just a general note for inverters. Be sure to read the owners manual of the inverter before you start your wiring. The 1000W Xantrex inverter I linked above, it is 900W continuous duty but it has surge capacity of 2000W. The literature recommends a 150A DC fuse/breaker to feed the inverter. Xantrex recommends 0 gauge cabling less than 6 feet between inverter and battery.

This is just an example, just a word of caution to not size cable based on the advertised inverter size, read the fine print.
 
I am anole.
Anyone know where I can find this USB cover?View attachment 2965766
i would buy one of these for 6 bucks on amazon, and spend the rest on beer for the weekend.

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Do you want my USB cover? I leave a short USB cable inserted into mine all the time anyway. It's only ~6" so it's not in the way, and it makes it easy to plug in a phone to charge when a battery is low. To me the little USB cover is just in the way
 
Do you want my USB cover? I leave a short USB cable inserted into mine all the time anyway. It's only ~6" so it's not in the way, and it makes it easy to plug in a phone to charge when a battery is low. To me the little USB cover is just in the way
I appreciate the offer but I do keep things plugged in there a lot too.
Not a big deal, thanks though....


Another SQOD however:

I recently tried pluggin the old SNES in the HDMI located in the back seat.
I want to play on the MFD screen as I have removed the rear ones.


Is there a trick to getting that to work?
Already am aware of the ebrake needing to be engaged to watch DVDs. etc..tried that too.
 
I think I have a slow leak : stock wheel with K02. Not confirmed but I suspect something related to the valve stem.

SQOD: if the valve stem / TPMS sensor require replacement, do I need to replace it with factory (trip to the dealer) or is this a commodity, any thing off the shelf, is good enough?
 
You can buy them from Denso Pacific, but there are different numbers for model different years, and the Denso fitments charts were wrong for a long time. No idea if they were ever updated. Toyota sells them too, of course. There are also programmable and clonable aftermarket copies, etc. Lots of info here on 'mud if you search.

TPMS seals can also be rebuilt. They have a seal kit that may solve your problem. I've purchased them at NAPA auto parts before.
 
I think I have a slow leak : stock wheel with K02. Not confirmed but I suspect something related to the valve stem.

SQOD: if the valve stem / TPMS sensor require replacement, do I need to replace it with factory (trip to the dealer) or is this a commodity, any thing off the shelf, is good enough?
There’s some useful info in this thread.

 
Thanks guys. If I do need to replace parts, can I assume that an '08 LX would be the same part as an '08 LC? Toyota dealer is much more convenient than a Lexus dealer. If not available locally, then I'll look online at Denso. So, whatever they would use at a big box store like Discount Tire or Big O would not be preferred - replace w/ factory? I wouldn't be replacing / fixing myself - I'd take it to a shop.
 
Thanks guys. If I do need to replace parts, can I assume that an '08 LX would be the same part as an '08 LC? Toyota dealer is much more convenient than a Lexus dealer. If not available locally, then I'll look online at Denso. So, whatever they would use at a big box store like Discount Tire or Big O would not be preferred - replace w/ factory? I wouldn't be replacing / fixing myself - I'd take it to a shop.
If you’re buying one online, you can get the Lexus part at Lexuspartsnow.com. The part number they list is 2 digits off from the Toyota part. Discount Tire can install it and set it up for your LX.
 
Stupid Question: disassembled my secondary air pumps to remove the destroyed foam. The old gasket appears to be a form in place foam gasket. My plan is to reseal with 3M 8662 (super silicone sealant). Wanted to see if anyone has other suggestions/recommendations, as I cannot find the gasket itself anywhere….

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RTV silicon sealant really isn’t a true FIPG (form in place gasket).
Toyota makes a black FIPG that comes in a tube and the stuff is incredible. Nothing like silicon RTV.
I’d recommend using Toyota’s goop.
There’s a black and orange formula. Orange is for contact with automatic transmission fluid, black is for contact with engine oil.
 
Stupid Question: disassembled my secondary air pumps to remove the destroyed foam. The old gasket appears to be a form in place foam gasket. My plan is to reseal with 3M 8662 (super silicone sealant). Wanted to see if anyone has other suggestions/recommendations, as I cannot find the gasket itself anywhere….

View attachment 2973367
I think that I would just clean up the current gasket and reassemble it. Silicone or FIPG will just make a mess now, and a nightmare should you ever have to take it apart again.
 
Ended up using some Toyota FIPG I had laying around. Figure after 12 years if I have to open these up again I’m using a sledgehammer and replacing them anyway
 
Stupid question, but....what's the "normal" for the parking brake? As in hold the vehicle in neutral on an incline? Or hold in Drive without applying throttle?
 
Stupid question, but....what's the "normal" for the parking brake? As in hold the vehicle in neutral on an incline? Or hold in Drive without applying throttle?
From the factory service manual:

Slowly pull the parking brake lever all the way, and count the number of clicks. Standard Parking Brake Lever Travel when Pulled with a Force of 200 N (20 kgf, 45 lbf): 5 to 7 clicks. If the parking brake lever travel is not as specified, adjust the parking brake shoe clearance and parking brake lever travel.
 
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Slowly pull the parking brake lever all the way, and count the number of clicks. Standard Parking Brake Lever Travel when Pulled with a Force of 200 N (20 kgf, 45 lbf): 5 to 7 clicks If the parking brake lever travel is not as specified, adjust the parking brake shoe clearance and parking brake lever travel.
I just yank mine up until it won't move anymore
 
I've noticed on my 2013 w/ 65k miles that in the morning on the way out of the neighborhood it will shift rough and hang in first longer than seems appropriate. I have never noticed this issue once the truck warms. Anyone else experienced this? It's not a huge deal, so long as it isn't a warning sign of an issue that needs addressed, but if that's what it is I'd rather do something about it now vs. have a much larger problem later.
 
I've noticed on my 2013 w/ 65k miles that in the morning on the way out of the neighborhood it will shift rough and hang in first longer than seems appropriate. I have never noticed this issue once the truck warms. Anyone else experienced this? It's not a huge deal, so long as it isn't a warning sign of an issue that needs addressed, but if that's what it is I'd rather do something about it now vs. have a much larger problem later.
My 2013 with almost 150k miles does this. Would also like to know if this is normal.
 
a full fluid flush and filter replace should help. My transmission ran smoother and quieter after doing this. Of course, I had 225k miles at the time.
 

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