SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (6 Viewers)
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Looks like a diode to prevent backfeed of illumination and ignition. Maybe for the provided Arb switch? SwitchPros would make those superfluous.
What is the maximum ft lb spec on the 200 series? Looking for torque wrenches. Anyone have a favorite?
Over 200 lbs for some specialty stuff. For that I would borrow one. Are you going to be rebuilding differentials?
I use one that goes to 100 lbs. Does most stuff.
A small one is good also, that does nm.
I’ve amassed a few over the years. My favorite is an Armstrong 1/2” 25-250# ft torque wrench. Spendy, but a great tool that’s served me well for about 10 years so far.
Once our roof rack is removed, what do you need to do to keep things water tight is you don't put anything back on?
I replaced my factory rack with a FrontRunner years ago and didn't save any of the factory hardware. I remember putting silicone in some places before putting the FrontRunner on, but can't remember what it looked like under there.
I want to take the rack off for the winter so I can fit the 200 my garage, so thanks for the help.
I replaced my factory rack with a FrontRunner years ago and didn't save any of the factory hardware. I remember putting silicone in some places before putting the FrontRunner on, but can't remember what it looked like under there.
I want to take the rack off for the winter so I can fit the 200 my garage, so thanks for the help.
Once our roof rack is removed, what do you need to do to keep things water tight is you don't put anything back on?
I replaced my factory rack with a FrontRunner years ago and didn't save any of the factory hardware. I remember putting silicone in some places before putting the FrontRunner on, but can't remember what it looked like under there.
I want to take the rack off for the winter so I can fit the 200 my garage, so thanks for the help.
Can you leave the mounts in place? Then there is no issue.
Wish I could but still won't clear the top of my garage door if I leave it on.
I would also consider the lowest spec torque. It’s super good to have at least 2 wrenches, one for the little stuff and one for the big stuff. Don’t pay too much! Unless you‘re a pro picking up your wrench several times a day, you can get ok wrenches for much less than a $100. For example, the Tire Rack sells the 1/2 drive Gorilla brand for $45. My small 3/8 drive is an ETORK that cost me $60.
Get coverage from 15-250. Span it across 2 wrenches.
Did the front runner make use of the factory nuts that are clipped in under the roof skin? If so then m8 bolts and some form of water proofing will work. The factory setup is gasket material, a washer that is metal on top with a rubber lining on bottom and a standard m8 bolt. You would need 8 per side. I know some of the racks have you install nutserts. If that’s the case, the only thing I imagine would work is reusing the rack bolts or something shorter and a lot of silicone.Once our roof rack is removed, what do you need to do to keep things water tight is you don't put anything back on?
I replaced my factory rack with a FrontRunner years ago and didn't save any of the factory hardware. I remember putting silicone in some places before putting the FrontRunner on, but can't remember what it looked like under there.
I want to take the rack off for the winter so I can fit the 200 my garage, so thanks for the help.
I'd also suggest at least 2 wrenches, but for a different reason. Torque wrenches are more accurate towards the middle of their range than at the edges, so you really don't want to use a 10-250 wrench to tighten something to 11 ft lbs.
The front hubs call for 251 ft lbs. Not sure if anything requires more
CharlieS
GOLD Star
^ this!
I have several to cover the range (I even had a gigantic one for tightening the crank pulley bolt on my 80 when I installed the supercharger, but I never used it after that, so I sold it). I find it useful to have one in inch pounds for engine building, some in the middle range where most fasteners get torques, and a bigger one for higher torque things like lugnuts, suspension bolts, etc.
Also, talking to @Taco2Cruiser a couple of years ago, who is super knowledgable, most of us DIY types are probably using junk torque wrenches. If I remember right, he said that if you aren't using a $1000 plus Snap On or equivalent that is regularly calibrated, then they aren't accurate. I think he used more colorful words, but I'd leave that to him.
greynolds
SILVER Star
Yeah, the general consensus seems to be that using a cheap torque wrench is worse than not using one at all. This is one of those tools where it's a really bad idea to cut corners.^ this!
I have several to cover the range (I even had a gigantic one for tightening the crank pulley bolt on my 80 when I installed the supercharger, but I never used it after that, so I sold it). I find it useful to have one in inch pounds for engine building, some in the middle range where most fasteners get torques, and a bigger one for higher torque things like lugnuts, suspension bolts, etc.
Also, talking to @Taco2Cruiser a couple of years ago, who is super knowledgable, most of us DIY types are probably using junk torque wrenches. If I remember right, he said that if you aren't using a $1000 plus Snap On or equivalent that is regularly calibrated, then they aren't accurate. I think he used more colorful words, but I'd leave that to him.
That's probably true, to an extent. I'm not sure I'd rebuild an engine with the $40 EPAuto click wrench I bought off Amazon but it's sufficiently accurate for, say, torqueing lug nuts and most suspension bolts in my experience. Especially since most mechanics I've seen don't actually break out a torque wrench, but just have a sense for when it's done. I know I'll be publicly shamed for saying so, but 95, 97, 99 ft lbs... I really don't think the difference matters for any of us, except possibly @cruiseroutfit during the Baja.Also, talking to @Taco2Cruiser a couple of years ago, who is super knowledgable, most of us DIY types are probably using junk torque wrenches. If I remember right, he said that if you aren't using a $1000 plus Snap On or equivalent that is regularly calibrated, then they aren't accurate. I think he used more colorful words, but I'd leave that to him.
I OTOH have gone too far enough times using the German "gutentight" method that I'll use a torque wrench, even a cheap one is much better than nothing in most cases.
It's anecdotal of course, but I've spoken to a couple 4x4 shops, one a Land Cruiser specific shop, that swore by the Harbor Freight Icon/Quinn digital torque wrenches. The info I've found about them online seems to be pretty good as well. Depends on the use case of course and I try to avoid HF like the plague, but it's something to consider I suppose.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
That is when working with valves under 40 ft lbf.^ this!
I have several to cover the range (I even had a gigantic one for tightening the crank pulley bolt on my 80 when I installed the supercharger, but I never used it after that, so I sold it). I find it useful to have one in inch pounds for engine building, some in the middle range where most fasteners get torques, and a bigger one for higher torque things like lugnuts, suspension bolts, etc.
Also, talking to @Taco2Cruiser a couple of years ago, who is super knowledgable, most of us DIY types are probably using junk torque wrenches. If I remember right, he said that if you aren't using a $1000 plus Snap On or equivalent that is regularly calibrated, then they aren't accurate. I think he used more colorful words, but I'd leave that to him.
Over 40, a cheap one is not a super big deal, as @linuxgod mentioned. I personally wouldn’t use one, but I will also always be transparent and say that they aren’t as far off when at higher valves. Usually.
The issue is see a lot is when guys use torque wrenches on M8 bolts that have a factory spec of 21 ft lbf. The shear amount of broken captive nuts and frame crossmember deformed from being cranked down way past 21 is mind blowing.
@JetFuel, I would still be cautious when an automotive shop says that things always work great. I feel that lots of people say things work great, but when cross checked, issues seem to arise. Point being, don’t trust me, but don’t trust them. The only way to know, is to have your specific tools checked.
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PhuckItImDone
SILVER Star
I need to hook up power to a LitePlate license plate light for the rear, running the tire carrier cuts the visibility on the rear plate. Where/how/which power do I go into back there? I'm no electrical expert or genius. 2018 LC. TIA
I would pull off the trailer connector harness, peel open the loom, then splice into the wires there. I can't remember which color wire is the running lights, but can probably dig it up if you need it.
Hi All,
Gotta SQOD. So check this out. A while back I brought my truck into the dealer for an oil change and a clearly specified 5 tire rotation. My tires had 6-7K miles on them at the time, and so I wanted the spare mixed into the rotation. Got it back, didn't think much about it.
Flash forward to today and I'm removing the spare because I'm in the middle of Fluid Filming underneath and realize they never grabbed the 5th wheel! So now I have four tires with 10K miles (Yokohama A/T GeoLandars) and one with zero miles, and I'm wondering if it's safe to put the spare into the mix because of tread wear. Should I measure the tread depth difference between the new one and an old one and calculate from there?
Thanks!
Gotta SQOD. So check this out. A while back I brought my truck into the dealer for an oil change and a clearly specified 5 tire rotation. My tires had 6-7K miles on them at the time, and so I wanted the spare mixed into the rotation. Got it back, didn't think much about it.
Flash forward to today and I'm removing the spare because I'm in the middle of Fluid Filming underneath and realize they never grabbed the 5th wheel! So now I have four tires with 10K miles (Yokohama A/T GeoLandars) and one with zero miles, and I'm wondering if it's safe to put the spare into the mix because of tread wear. Should I measure the tread depth difference between the new one and an old one and calculate from there?
Thanks!
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