SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (8 Viewers)

[FrazzledHunter]

Thanks .. you got me looking in the right area.
The 40 amp blue is for the trailer brakes and the 30 amp red is for the 12 volt charging line that I was looking for.

I found this - it's for a 2008 but might still apply:

 

[Fisher23]

I found this - it's for a 2008 but might still apply:

Thanks .. yes same for the2016.

This clearly shows the 12 volt is 40 amps as lx200inAR pointed out. Way better than guessing, and better than I thought.

There will be the drop from the run but it's good enough to charge a trailer battery. The gain from a dc 2 dc would be for lithium.

 

[TeCKis300]

Thanks .. yes same for the2016.

This clearly shows the 12 volt is 40 amps as lx200inAR pointed out. Way better than guessing, and better than I thought.

There will be the drop from the run but it's good enough to charge a trailer battery. The gain from a dc 2 dc would be for lithium.

Hate to ruin the party, but fuse size does not equal nominal wiring capacity. Fuse sizing always include margin above for transient and temperature. Typically 135% of nominal capacity.

If it's the 40amp fuse, 30amps is probably okay. If 30amp fused, probably good for 20 amp. If there's voltage drop and too small gauge of wire, it'll cause more current to be pulled over the fuse so that probably needs to be taken into consideration.

 

[Julian73]

Hate to ruin the party, but fuse size does not equal nominal wiring capacity. Fuse sizing always include margin above for transient and temperature. Typically 135% of nominal capacity.

If it's the 40amp fuse, 30amps is probably okay. If 30amp fused, probably good for 20 amp. If there's voltage drop and too small gauge of wire, it'll cause more current to be pulled over the fuse so that probably needs to be taken into consideration.

its the opposite way around, a X fuse allows for a transient margin above its rating, however as the fuse is to protect the wire, the nominal fuse rating is typically set at 80% of the wires capacity.

 

[TeCKis300]

its the opposite way around, a X fuse allows for a transient margin above its rating, however as the fuse is to protect the wire, the nominal fuse rating is typically set at 80% of the wires capacity.

That's fair. But realistically, are you suggesting it's okay to pull the full 40amps on the stock circuit?

In the stock configuration and application, the wiring resistance over the long run is self limiting. Putting a DC-DC charger across that changes things.

 

[dubyahard]

Do any of the Toyota UCAs work for Lexus LX? Specifically the 2008 models.

I need to replace my driver side UBJ and it sounds like more work than just replacing the whole UCA assembly. I have a AHC lift so I think adjustable ones or set extra caster ones would be preferred. I can get a discount on the Ironman ones so they'd only be less than ARB. Any feedback? Would any of them work? Could they be made to work? Should I just start a separate thread?

UCA options I've seen:
OEM: 48630-60030 from Partsouq $215.90 (single side) $431.80
OME: UCA-0001 $588 for a set
Ironman 4x4: UCA056FA $640/set
Total Chaos: TCS-87504 $871.83/set
SPC: 25465 $669.96/set
Trail Tailor: UCAs 200 Series $719/set
Camburg: CAM-310042 $800/set
Icon: ICON-58570DJ $1,500/set
Nitro: NPUCA-TLC200 $866.24/set
Dobinsons: UCA59-001K $715/set

 

[Fisher23]

Hate to ruin the party, but fuse size does not equal nominal wiring capacity. Fuse sizing always include margin above for transient and temperature. Typically 135% of nominal capacity.

If it's the 40amp fuse, 30amps is probably okay. If 30amp fused, probably good for 20 amp. If there's voltage drop and too small gauge of wire, it'll cause more current to be pulled over the fuse so that probably needs to be taken into consideration.

Thanks got it,

FYI .. I'm swapping the AGM for a Lithium in my off road trailer.
Since it has a 40 amp fuse I'm going to put a 20 amp DC 2 DC charger in the trailer and a 1000w pure sign inverter.

 

[Julian73]

That's fair. But realistically, are you suggesting it's okay to pull the full 40amps on the stock circuit?

In the stock configuration and application, the wiring resistance over the long run is self limiting. Putting a DC-DC charger across that changes things.

No you size the wire to about 150% of your continuous load or (more likely larger still to reduce voltage drop) and the size fuse 80% of wire to protect the wire. The wire resistance over the long run is only limited by too much cola tags drop to run you device, which unfortunately raise the current even more amps= watts/voltage, which raise the voltage drop more in a vicious circle until the wire overheats and melts first the insulation and starts a fire or melts the wire itself. Back to protect the wire with the fuse and hopefully wire and fuse are large enough that the device smdows not trip the fuse under normal operations.

 

[TeCKis300]

FYI .. I'm swapping the AGM for a Lithium in my off road trailer.
Since it has a 40 amp fuse I'm going to put a 20 amp DC 2 DC charger in the trailer and a 1000w pure sign inverter.

That should work beautifully. I'm interested to know how it works out as that's something I may try in the future. Not with the Airstream as it has enough roofline to be self sufficient with solar, but possibly an off-road trailer.

No you size the wire to about 150% of your continuous load or (more likely larger still to reduce voltage drop) and the size fuse 80% of wire to protect the wire. The wire resistance over the long run is only limited by too much cola tags drop to run you device, which unfortunately raise the current even more amps= watts/voltage, which raise the voltage drop more in a vicious circle until the wire overheats and melts first the insulation and starts a fire or melts the wire itself. Back to protect the wire with the fuse and hopefully wire and fuse are large enough that the device smdows not trip the fuse under normal operations.

I think we're more on the same page than not and perhaps looking at it from two different perspectives. The wiring and fuse is already there so the question is not how to size it but what it'll realistically and safely support.

 

[CharlieS]

Do any of the Toyota UCAs work for Lexus LX? Specifically the 2008 models.

I need to replace my driver side UBJ and it sounds like more work than just replacing the whole UCA assembly. I have a AHC lift so I think adjustable ones or set extra caster ones would be preferred. I can get a discount on the Ironman ones so they'd only be less than ARB. Any feedback? Would any of them work? Could they be made to work? Should I just start a separate thread?

UCA options I've seen:
OEM: 48630-60030 from Partsouq $215.90 (single side) $431.80
OME: UCA-0001 $588 for a set
Ironman 4x4: UCA056FA $640/set
Total Chaos: TCS-87504 $871.83/set
SPC: 25465 $669.96/set
Trail Tailor: UCAs 200 Series $719/set
Camburg: CAM-310042 $800/set
Icon: ICON-58570DJ $1,500/set
Nitro: NPUCA-TLC200 $866.24/set

Don't forget Dobinsons. I have them and they're great. Check with @crikeymike .

 

[Julian73]

Thanks got it,


That should work beautifully. I'm interested to know how it works out as that's something I may try in the future. Not with the Airstream as it has enough roofline to be self sufficient with solar, but possibly an off-road trailer.




I think we're more on the same page than not and perhaps looking at it from two different perspectives. The wiring and fuse is already there so the question is not how to size it but what it'll realistically and safely support.

I agree with you. I think we are dance around the same stage at a different pass angle. So 40 amp breaker I would assume max 30 amp max load if voltage drop is not critical, maybe 25 amps if must support electronics within 3% drop

 

[terrapin]

I live in the Southwest and my 100 and 200 series LX's are never garaged and I rarely use sun shades and only occasionally use Armour All. (please don't judge)

That said, do the dashes on these vehicles ever crack? My previous LX never had a problem, but other "lessor" vehicles I have owned had cracked dashboards.

 

[prwillard2]

I live in the Southwest and my 100 and 200 series LX's are never garaged and I rarely use sun shades and only occasionally use Armour All. (please don't judge)

That said, do the dashes on these vehicles ever crack? My previous LX never had a problem, but other "lessor" vehicles I have owned had cracked dashboards.

Can't speak to the dash but I'd really recommend you get a UV-A/B tint done to your front windshield. I had mine done, and when I forget to use my covercraft sunshade, it has made a huge difference with how hot the inside of my vehicle gets.

 

[grinchy]

Do any of the Toyota UCAs work for Lexus LX? Specifically the 2008 models.

I need to replace my driver side UBJ and it sounds like more work than just replacing the whole UCA assembly. I have a AHC lift so I think adjustable ones or set extra caster ones would be preferred. I can get a discount on the Ironman ones so they'd only be less than ARB. Any feedback? Would any of them work? Could they be made to work? Should I just start a separate thread?

UCA options I've seen:
OEM: 48630-60030 from Partsouq $215.90 (single side) $431.80
OME: UCA-0001 $588 for a set
Ironman 4x4: UCA056FA $640/set
Total Chaos: TCS-87504 $871.83/set
SPC: 25465 $669.96/set
Trail Tailor: UCAs 200 Series $719/set
Camburg: CAM-310042 $800/set
Icon: ICON-58570DJ $1,500/set
Nitro: NPUCA-TLC200 $866.24/set

If you still have ahc you’ll need to make provisions for the hardline to the strut. Not hard, but it’s something to think about
<edit for future readers - height sensor bracket>

 

[Get Dirty]

From my 60k maintenance notes. Note capacities are per the manual but in my experience the diffs and transfer case seem to take a tad less.

· Motor Oil: 7.9 quarts 0w-20 synthetic
· Front Diff: 2.01 quarts LT, 75W-85 (fill plug uses crush washer, drain plug uses copper washer) - amsoil SVGQA-EA
· Rear Diff: 4.44 quarts LT, 75W-85 (fill and drain plugs use crush washer) - amsoil SVGQA-EA
· Transmission: 12.6 quarts ATF WS (only need 3 if just doing a pan drain/fill, or ~16 for a full flush) (fill and drain plugs use aluminum washer) - amsoil ATL1G-A
· Transfer Case: 1.53 quarts LF, SAE 75W (fill and drain plugs use aluminum washer) - ravenol 75w
· Air Filter
· Cabin air filter

3 Crush washers: 12157-10010 (for front diff fill and rear diff fill/drain)
1 copper washer: 90430-24003 (for front diff drain)
4 aluminum washers: 90430-18008 (for transfer case and A/T fill/drain)

Thank you! This helped me find a replacement kit here: Amazon product ASIN B07CJHTDVV

 

[dubyahard]

If you still have ahc you’ll need to make provisions for the hardline to the strut. Not hard, but it’s something to think about

Any ideas/pics?

 

[TeCKis300]

If you still have ahc you’ll need to make provisions for the hardline to the strut. Not hard, but it’s something to think about

Any ideas/pics?

This confuses me a bit? The hydraulic line for AHC in front doesn't touch the UCA. Perhaps what he's talking about it that you'll need a UCA that has the AHC height position sensor bracket, or transfer/weld the existing bracket to the aftermarket UCA. IIRC, there may be the sensor line routed on it too.

I vaguely remember that at least one aftermarket UCA already had the bracket provisions? I forget what brand that was.

 

[dubyahard]

This confuses me a bit? The hydraulic line for AHC in front doesn't touch the UCA. Perhaps what he's talking about it that you'll need a UCA that has the AHC height position sensor bracket, or transfer/weld the existing bracket to the aftermarket UCA. IIRC, there may be the sensor line routed on it too.

I vaguely remember that at least one aftermarket UCA already had the bracket provisions? I forget what brand that was.

Looking at the pictures of the actual Lexus part in linked above versus the others, they all look to have the same bracket. I may just give the Ironman ones a shot. I talked to someone who worked there and they've only had two warranty claims in the last two years.

 

[grinchy]

yep, sorry, i meant the height sensor. doh!

edit - is the bracket you see the brake line bracket? if so that isn't the height sensor bracket.

 

[CharlieS]

Looking at the pictures of the actual Lexus part in linked above versus the others, they all look to have the same bracket. I may just give the Ironman ones a shot. I talked to someone who worked there and they've only had two warranty claims in the last two years.

I expect flack for this, but I feel like Ironman is the Walmart of offroad parts. I've seen a lot of people regret having spent money on their stuff, only to replace it down the line with a higher quality brand. Granted, I haven't heard anything about their UCAs, but I'd rather buy a good set once and get a better brand than buying cheap and then buying the right stuff the second pass, pay for multiple alignments, etc. The savings in that situation become false economy.

Another thing I'll say about Dobinsons UCA is that they use high quality, replaceable Triple 5 ball joints, made in Japan. I also like that they use factory style bushings, and not higher maintenance urethane or spherical joints - mine is not a race car, and I don't maintain it like one. I got mine on sale when Exit offroad had a special offer, but I'd buy them again in a heartbeat.