SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (3 Viewers)

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Hey, I just noticed this when I was peaking under the vehicle looking for the sound of a squeak (likely my BP-51s). Its the line from my LRA tank to the aux fuel pump. I have never really dealt with fuel lines, is this something I can just tighten and check on it later or is it more involved?View attachment 2788891


A common mistake is to use white Teflon tape when you should use yellow Teflon tape. I would take it apart use yellow tape and put it back together.

It looks like it is leaking where the 90 meets the other 90 and you maybe able to tighten it to correct the issue.

There is a write up on squeaky bp51 shocks. I had the same problem and eventually figured out if you add a bushing at the top between the frame and the large washer, or use you oem washers it fixes the issue. the problem is with the ARB parts and they will also send these washers if you tossed your OEMS ones. I may have been TACO who did the original post.?
 
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When installing the Slee rear bumper, how does one trim the reflector? How do you even separate the reflector from the housing? Cut the housing as well?
Also, getting the parking sensors into the grommets for the bumper?
 
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When installing the Slee rear bumper, how does one trim the reflector? How do you even separate the reflector from the housing? Cut the housing as well?
Also, getting the parking sensors into the grommets for the bumper?
I was told you cant cut the reflector successfully so I had some small LED lights fitted to improve the lighting spread when reversing.

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Per the instructions, im to cut the reflector. That sounds easier than it is, especially since I can't figure out how to separate the housing from the reflector. I suppose I could find something to fill that blank spot also
 
The rear parking sensors and the grommets for the slee bumper? Any tips/ideas/ know how? I don't want to break them, and can't figure out how they fit.
 
I found the grommets are almost impossible to remove without breaking them, they are very fragile and get brittle back in that dirty environment. Fortunately they are cheap, ~$4 each. Be careful, they are not all the same.

The sensors are crazy expensive, I think around $200 each, so be careful with them. I scuffed mine with some 220 sandpaper and sprayed a very thin coat of paint on them to convert from white to black, no ill effects.
 
Yea I can't get the sensors into the grommets and they feel like they want to break
I can't say for certain but it's entirely possible if the Slee bumper reuses your existing grommets they are not the same as whatever Slee tested.

I had this issue with my Trail Tailor front bumper... Jason had tested with TonyP's 2013 and the snapped in fine but the grommets and sensors would absolutely not fit in mine without enlarging the holes. Later after I broke a grommet and bought a replacement for my 2013 the one sent was slightly different and was effectively too small for the new hole. I used a bit of epoxy to hold it in place, but I'm 99.9% sure the replacement grommet would've fit into the original hole perfectly. Weird thing is that I now think my original front sensor grommets were actually REAR sensor grommets as the one that broke was one of those slightly angled grommets and not the completely flat ones.
 
Cabin filter. If you drive past something stinky (dead skunk, cattle farm, oil refinery) you can press it and it'll remove the smell from your interior in about 30-60 seconds.

Funny, I never really noticed this button on my 2010 until I saw this post.

I still wonder what it does and how it works. Isn't all of the air filtered through the cabin filter?
 
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I can't say for certain but it's entirely possible if the Slee bumper reuses your existing grommets they are not the same as whatever Slee tested.

I had this issue with my Trail Tailor front bumper... Jason had tested with TonyP's 2013 and the snapped in fine but the grommets and sensors would absolutely not fit in mine without enlarging the holes. Later after I broke a grommet and bought a replacement for my 2013 the one sent was slightly different and was effectively too small for the new hole. I used a bit of epoxy to hold it in place, but I'm 99.9% sure the replacement grommet would've fit into the original hole perfectly. Weird thing is that I now think my original front sensor grommets were actually REAR sensor grommets as the one that broke was one of those slightly angled grommets and not the completely flat ones.
The grommets did change at some point, they actually got smaller, but I'm not sure when. Possible with the '13 refresh. I bought my RLC rear bumper used, and apparently it was on an earlier truck, because the holes were already drilled, but they were larger. The grommets from my '15 sensors wouldn't snap to fit, they just fell back out. I had to buy new grommets anyway, as most of mine broke when removing them. So I ordered grommets for the older trucks, and they snapped right in. The grommets come already color matched, so I bought all black ones. I only had to paint the noses of the sensors black.
 
Yes. Unplug if you want to go back to old fashioned intermittent.
Can you expand on this? Is it simply unplugging the wires right above the box or somewhere in/under the dash? I’d really like to go back to old fashioned intermittents as the rain sensing doesn't seem to work at all for me.

Separately, what is the range of volume on the Mark Levinson 19-speaker system? It sounds really good when I start to increase the volume but I’m not sure if 40 on the volume scale is middle or in the high range.

Lastly, does anyone have the part numbers for the plastic engine cover “bolts”? I have a few broken I’d like to replace. And maybe the part numbers for the plastic trim pieces under the plastic engine covers that sit on the fender sheet metal? Thank you in advance for the help!
 
On my old '13 there was a black
box by the rear view mirror, you opened that and unplugged the electrical connector, which disabled the rain sensing and made them into regular intermittent wipers. They work so much better on my '16 that I've just left them.
 
Can you expand on this? Is it simply unplugging the wires right above the box or somewhere in/under the dash? I’d really like to go back to old fashioned intermittents as the rain sensing doesn't seem to work at all for me.

Separately, what is the range of volume on the Mark Levinson 19-speaker system? It sounds really good when I start to increase the volume but I’m not sure if 40 on the volume scale is middle or in the high range.

Lastly, does anyone have the part numbers for the plastic engine cover “bolts”? I have a few broken I’d like to replace. And maybe the part numbers for the plastic trim pieces under the plastic engine covers that sit on the fender sheet metal? Thank you in advance for the help!
Unplug the connector in the black box next to the mirror.
I want to say it is 59 or 60. If your source is clean you can turn it to full volume with no distortion.
 
Funny, I never really noticed this button on my 2010 until I saw this post.

I still wonder what it does and how it works. Isn't all of the air filtered through the cabin filter?
yes, exactly. If you normally run with recirc on, then all this button does is raise the fan speed and maybe redirect air to upper vents only - then returns everything back how you had it after a few mins. If you normall run in fresh-air mode, it does all the above + enable recirc mode.
 
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Anyone ever had to replace/repair any of the metal clamps on the stock air housing? If so, what was used as it appears these clamps cannot be purchased separately.
 
This link is somewhat dead, but seems to apply.


Also, this looks like the right part, but not sure.

 
Alright, this is pissing me off, and I can't figure out how to get it to stop.

If I leave the headlight stalk switch in "Auto", when I shut the truck off and open the door, I get an annoying "beeeeeeeeeep" noise, like "hey you left your headlights on dummy". If I ignore it and get out and walk away, when I come back to the truck many minutes later the headlights are still on. Like, it's gonna kill the battery. The only way I can get it to stop is flip the switch all the way down to "Off", then back up to "Auto" again.

I have my DRL disabled, if that matters. Does it?

Or did some setting change somewhere? I looked in the options, and nothing is relative to this.

Stupid truck. What a POS. Time to trade for a Prius and join the sheeple. :p
 

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