If you are talking about the brown strip it looks like sound dampening material. If you can reach it see if it is sticky on the back. Might just need to be pressed back into place or pulled off.
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (16 Viewers)
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If you are talking about the brown strip it looks like sound dampening material. If you can reach it see if it is sticky on the back. Might just need to be pressed back into place or pulled off.
Maybe @Killacaviar can chime in. This is one of the cleanest engine bays I've ever seen.
What have you done to your 200 Series this week?
First oil change on my 2011. Bought my LC last November with a little under 50,000 miles from a Toyota dealer in southeast Texas. It was a trade-in on a new one. One owner, clear carfax and the dealer had service records since it was purchased and maintenanced there. First, took off entire...
forum.ih8mud.com
Yeah the brown strip. It's a few inches wide (3-4" I think) and feels like something woven, but stiffer than a seatbelt. It seems to run along ~75% of the width of the trunk lid, and it's attached in the middle. I can't find any evidence of it in a partsouq diagram, oddly.
I can't really get my absurdly large meathooks in there *and* maneuver around enough to do anything but tap part of it with a finger where I can tell it's "dropping" from the outside of the trunk lid to somewhere on the inside when the lid goes up. I thought at first maybe it was something to do with the trunk release, but probably not. Sadly I think I need to pull the panel to get to it, at which point probably some VHB tape will secure it. The way it moves it almost seems like it's supposed to be that way or something.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I’m going to say sound deadening material. I don’t remember anything like that flopping around in my 13 or 16 hatches when I’ve had them apart. Thankfully that area is absurdly easy to remove the trim panels to get a better look.
And a Parks and Rec fan? Sounds like a line Perd Hapley would use.
I definitely have something flopping around in the hatch of my 2010 LX. I can hear it every time I lift the hatch. I was planning to take it off soon to figure out some sort of lighting option anyways. So maybe I can kill two birds here.
TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
I happen to have my entire rear of the truck torn apart, so here are some photos. The wire hanging in my photos is for the inside release I added. Let me know if you need other views or angles.
TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
Pretty sure on the sound deadening as well. Thats actually part of why mine is torn apart as I add sound deadening and rewire/rerun mods in split looms. the brown material is still attached firmly to the sheet metal in mine.
Yeah that long wide tan ribbon is it. Did you secure yours with that silver tape or did it come the way? If you added the tape we’re they attached to the trunk lid or “loose”? In that position the ends flop down inside mine.
Ok so I’ve gotta pop it apart and break out the VHB tape, apparently
Got a “check tire pressure system” twice today. When it happens I cannot see info about any of the sensors. First time I had to shut the truck off and restart it to get it to clear, at which point 4 of 5 registered quickly and the 5th took a minute or two. Second time it happened a few hours later I couldn’t see the other tire values but the error cleared after maybe 30 seconds and then they were all reading fine
2013 with 114k. Wondering if this is what happens when TPMS batteries start to go, or if it’s an issue with the TPMS receiver. Seems odd that one failing sensor prevents me from seeing the other 4
I had this happen once last summer about 5k miles ago but stop and restart cleared it at the time and I hadn’t seen this since
2013 with 114k. Wondering if this is what happens when TPMS batteries start to go, or if it’s an issue with the TPMS receiver. Seems odd that one failing sensor prevents me from seeing the other 4
I had this happen once last summer about 5k miles ago but stop and restart cleared it at the time and I hadn’t seen this since
That is SOP for the TPMS, at least in a Lexus. The dashboard will not show you any pressures if one sensor is missing/down. Seems like a poor design. Luckily, if you use a OBDII tool (or techstream) you can see which sensor is not working.
Thanks. That’s what I thought but good to confirm. I’ll run a code scan this evening… hadn’t initially thought of that. If it’s a bad sensor though I assume I might as well replace them all since they’re all the same age (8.5 years)… or are you guys seeing a lot longer life and thinking it might just be a single bad one?
greynolds
SILVER Star
Here's one that could be answered with a multimeter, but I'm hoping someone else has checked it because access is awkward... In the passenger side footwell fusebox (2020 LC), there are a couple of fuses for AHC circuits. Does anyone know if those are: 1) hooked up to power (I suspect they are since fuses are plugged in) and 2) only on when the ignition is on or in accessory mode? If the answer is yes to both, is there enough room under the cover to plug in an add a circuit fuse tap and route a wire out under the cover? I pulled off the main cover under the glovebox and then the fuse box cover, but the fuse panel is at a really weird angle and I'm not as flexible as I was when I was in my 20s and 30s LOL, so I'm hoping someone else has checked these.
I know there's a switched trailer circuit in the rear cargo area (driver's side) that could be tapped into, but I'm trying to avoid cutting or splicing any factory wiring for any of my projects.
Once I get the switched power figured out, I need to figure out if I can run an Ethernet cable from the glovebox area to the cargo area; the wire itself would be easy, but I'm hoping to be able to route a pre-made cable so I don't need to splice on an end. The plan is to locate my cellular router inside the door where the jack is located (in the first aid kit bin). The antenna for the router will be attached to the passenger side window with the same velcro that's used for toll booth transponders on the windshield.
Since I installed a Kaon shelf, I'm planning on mounting a first aid kit to the bottom using a Molle first aid pouch with rip away velcro for quicker access.
I know there's a switched trailer circuit in the rear cargo area (driver's side) that could be tapped into, but I'm trying to avoid cutting or splicing any factory wiring for any of my projects.
Once I get the switched power figured out, I need to figure out if I can run an Ethernet cable from the glovebox area to the cargo area; the wire itself would be easy, but I'm hoping to be able to route a pre-made cable so I don't need to splice on an end. The plan is to locate my cellular router inside the door where the jack is located (in the first aid kit bin). The antenna for the router will be attached to the passenger side window with the same velcro that's used for toll booth transponders on the windshield.
Since I installed a Kaon shelf, I'm planning on mounting a first aid kit to the bottom using a Molle first aid pouch with rip away velcro for quicker access.
EverywhereBear
SILVER Star
I had this happen to my 08LX when it was about 8-9 years old (can’t recall exactly when). It did this a few times, twice on a road trip. It was a bad TPMS sensor in one of the wheels. Once I replaced them the issue went away.
It’s annoying for sure. It’s doesn’t make any sense why this happens. I just keep the headrest at lowest position and when someone is in the passenger seat and the headrest is raised, the rattle is gone.
Don't know where to ask and don't feel like a new thread.
Is there any "bad" reason to leave the remote winch connected? I have not done so, just because I was not sure.
Kind of like here :
Amazon product ASIN B00D2HI32U
Is there any "bad" reason to leave the remote winch connected? I have not done so, just because I was not sure.
Kind of like here :
Amazon product ASIN B00D2HI32U
A wireless controller like the one you linked where you can deactivate it while the receiver is still plugged into the control box is fine (as long as you actually deactivate it when not in use). A traditional wired remote with no way to deactivate I would not leave plugged in just because the chance of accidental engagement.
