SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (10 Viewers)

[terrapin]

I'm getting a new spare wheel and tire but when I removed the old spare I noticed that the wheel had a spot worn into the metal from rubbing. Am I missing some padding between the wheel and the frame or otherwise doing something wrong.

...yes, I know the tire is toast. Getting a new one today!

 

[CharlieS]

I'm getting a new spare wheel and tire but when I removed the old spare I noticed that the wheel had a spot worn into the metal from rubbing. Am I missing some padding between the wheel and the frame or otherwise doing something wrong.

...yes, I know the tire is toast. Getting a new one today!
View attachment 2726086

I'd speculate that it wasn't cranked tight, so the some road grit and vibration caused it to wear through the paint where it makes contact. Nether of the spares on my 13 or 16 looked like this. My 16 had a plastic cover that fit into the lug holes but I don't think it went out that far, so I don't think it would help.

 

[lx200inAR]

I'm getting a new spare wheel and tire but when I removed the old spare I noticed that the wheel had a spot worn into the metal from rubbing. Am I missing some padding between the wheel and the frame or otherwise doing something wrong.

...yes, I know the tire is toast. Getting a new one today!
View attachment 2726086

My LX definitely had rub marks there as well.. I didn't bother cleaning it up enough to see if it was worn through (I was replacing wheels), but I wouldn't be surprised. I think it's a "feature" of 20" wheels and tires that doesn't stick out past the rim much. I think somewhat of an oversite on Lexus/Toyota's part. My 17" wheels don't have the same issue because now the part that hits the carrier frame is the tire instead of the wheel.

 

[terrapin]

I think it's a "feature" of 20" wheels and tires that doesn't stick out past the rim much.

I suspect that is the case. Fortunately I'm replacing with an 18" wheel today.

 

[prharper]

My LX definitely had rub marks there as well.. I didn't bother cleaning it up enough to see if it was worn through (I was replacing wheels), but I wouldn't be surprised. I think it's a "feature" of 20" wheels and tires that doesn't stick out past the rim much. I think somewhat of an oversite on Lexus/Toyota's part. My 17" wheels don't have the same issue because now the part that hits the carrier frame is the tire instead of the wheel.

Same on LC with 18", there is a round rubber piece that is molded to fit into the wheel lug holes and extends about half way up the rim, but it doesn't extend that far out to the edge. When it's cranked tight, tire/wheel should not move.

 

[terrapin]

I'm getting a new spare wheel and tire but when I removed the old spare I noticed that the wheel had a spot worn into the metal from rubbing. Am I missing some padding between the wheel and the frame or otherwise doing something wrong.

Here's the culprit. These rubber bumpers are what the wheel is supposed to rest on when snugged up (viewed from below). They are surprisingly thin rubber. I just rotated it 180 degrees, but it probably won't match up with the 18" wheels anyway. The slot makes me wonder if it is adjustable.

 

[terrapin]

OK, I couldn't stand it, so I crawled underneath again to see what was going on. I always thought that the tire itself rested against the crossmember, but the tire does not touch. The wheel rim is the only thing that touches these rubber pieces. I removed the two middle ones (they are slotted but not adjustable) and the remaining ones sit OK on my Tundra wheels (YMMV). If you look at my original post photo you can see the rubber stuck on the rim next to the worn spot.

Again, I am surprised at how soft the rubber is and I will probably replace them. Anyone got a part number?

 

[KLF]

OK, I couldn't stand it, so I crawled underneath again to see what was going on. I always thought that the tire itself rested against the crossmember, but the tire does not touch. The wheel rim is the only thing that touches these rubber pieces. I removed the two middle ones (they are slotted but not adjustable) and the remaining ones sit OK on my Tundra wheels (YMMV). If you look at my original post photo you can see the rubber stuck on the rim next to the worn spot.

Again, I am surprised at how soft the rubber is and I will probably replace them. Anyone got a part number?

View attachment 2726711
View attachment 2726712

That looks like a job for a proper bump stop. Something like this:

Amazon product ASIN B000CN9DFI

 

[Ratchey]

When you guys replace the front brake pad slide pins, do you grease them or put them in dry? Never seen this type of system before.

 

[indycole]

When you guys replace the front brake pad slide pins, do you grease them or put them in dry? Never seen this type of system before.

I put a bit of anti-seize on the pins and grease on the pad shims and edges of the pads.

 

[MTKID]

I just wanted to confirm the correct carriers that I can search for for re-gearing my 08’. I have 4.88’s sitting at Zuk’s. He has Eaton E-Lockers on their way to him, and I would like to send him carriers to reduce my downtime. Am I right that I can use any 2008-2018 front carrier and any 2008-2015 rear? Or is the rear ok if it’s even later? If anyone has done this and has their own old carriers that I could purchase, I’d rather do that than purchase from EBay or Car-part.com

thank you!

 

[TeCKis300]

I just wanted to confirm the correct carriers that I can search for for re-gearing my 08’. I have 4.88’s sitting at Zuk’s. He has Eaton E-Lockers on their way to him, and I would like to send him carriers to reduce my downtime. Am I right that I can use any 2008-2018 front carrier and any 2008-2015 rear? Or is the rear ok if it’s even later? If anyone has done this and has their own old carriers that I could purchase, I’d rather do that than purchase from EBay or Car-part.com

thank you!

IIRC:

Fronts:
- You'll want a pre-2016 200-series donor carrier. The later model years had the complexity of a different diff carrier deck height
- Or you can use a second gen 4x4 Tundra or Sequoia front carrier

Rears:
- Use any carrier from a 100-series (non-locked) or 200-series

You might have found this thread, and it may have more information

DIY 4.3 Re-Gear

Still in the early stages and I could use some recommendations on differential install kits/parts. I've got the keystone pieces in the garage as I attempt to collect the ancillary parts before I rip into the car. Planning a 4.3 re-gear with rear only Harrop e-locker. Locker is less of a...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[chazzmatazz]

I hope I didn’t just miss this while searching but will a 16+ steering wheel fit my 2013 and would all the buttons still function? US car, left hand drive.

 

[grinchy]

I just wanted to confirm the correct carriers that I can search for for re-gearing my 08’. I have 4.88’s sitting at Zuk’s. He has Eaton E-Lockers on their way to him, and I would like to send him carriers to reduce my downtime. Am I right that I can use any 2008-2018 front carrier and any 2008-2015 rear? Or is the rear ok if it’s even later? If anyone has done this and has their own old carriers that I could purchase, I’d rather do that than purchase from EBay or Car-part.com

thank you!

How are rentals prices in your area? A week might only be $100 if you’re not picky about the car. $200 likely cheaper than buying two carriers.

 

[MTKID]

IIRC:

Fronts:
- You'll want a pre-2016 200-series donor carrier. The later model years had the complexity of a different diff carrier deck height
- Or you can use a second gen 4x4 Tundra or Sequoia front carrier

Rears:
- Use any carrier from a 100-series (non-locked) or 200-series

You might have found this thread, and it may have more information

DIY 4.3 Re-Gear

Still in the early stages and I could use some recommendations on differential install kits/parts. I've got the keystone pieces in the garage as I attempt to collect the ancillary parts before I rip into the car. Planning a 4.3 re-gear with rear only Harrop e-locker. Locker is less of a...

forum.ih8mud.com

thank you TeC

How are rentals prices in your area? A week might only be $100 if you’re not picky about the car. $200 likely cheaper than buying two carriers.

that is worth considering. The looking I did would show a considerable more expensive purchase for f&r carriers. But I was only looking at the LX & LC options on car-part.com

 

[terrapin]

What is the general consensus on using anti-seize on spark plugs? I've always used it, but it seems that most spark plug manufacturers are not recommending it because it may cause you to over torque the plugs. The plugs already have an anti-seize plating on the threads.

Here is a quote from Denso: If using anti-seize compound, use sparingly and reduce torque by 30%.

https://www.densoproducts.com/denso-plug-torque-settings

...and NGK: Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.

5 Things You Should Know About Spark Plugs

The five things you should know about spark plugs include information on anti-seize, corona stain, gapping fine wire, torque and copper spark plugs.

ngksparkplugs.com

I'm changing the plugs in my 2010 LX with Denso and based on this will not use anti-seize. Going to be a hard habit to break

 

[CruiserFan88]

What is the general consensus on using anti-seize on spark plugs? I've always used it, but it seems that most spark plug manufacturers are not recommending it because it may cause you to over torque the plugs. The plugs already have an anti-seize plating on the threads.

Here is a quote from Denso: If using anti-seize compound, use sparingly and reduce torque by 30%.

https://www.densoproducts.com/denso-plug-torque-settings

...and NGK: Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.

5 Things You Should Know About Spark Plugs

The five things you should know about spark plugs include information on anti-seize, corona stain, gapping fine wire, torque and copper spark plugs.

ngksparkplugs.com

I'm changing the plugs in my 2010 LX with Denso and based on this will not use anti-seize. Going to be a hard habit to break

Used it with no issues...also have gone without with no issues...

 

[radman]

I’m preparing for a road trip, a I just pulled off my wheels to take them in for balancing (maybe I don’t trust DT to properly jack up the rig… and partly b/c I have spacers). Anyway, I lifted the rear via the pumpkin, and then released the parking break in order to listen to the hubs. To my surprise, the rear wheels spin with the transmission in Park.

SQOD: the Park Pawl only locks up the front wheels?

 

[ttrmike]

I’m preparing for a road trip, a I just pulled off my wheels to take them in for balancing (maybe I don’t trust DT to properly jack up the rig… and partly b/c I have spacers). Anyway, I lifted the rear via the pumpkin, and then released the parking break in order to listen to the hubs. To my surprise, the rear wheels spin with the transmission in Park.

SQOD: the Park Pawl only locks up the front wheels?

If all 4 wheels are off the ground the driveshafts can still turn since the parking pawl is upstream of the center differential, assuming the center diff is unlocked.

 

[montegofd3s]

I’m preparing for a road trip, a I just pulled off my wheels to take them in for balancing (maybe I don’t trust DT to properly jack up the rig… and partly b/c I have spacers). Anyway, I lifted the rear via the pumpkin, and then released the parking break in order to listen to the hubs. To my surprise, the rear wheels spin with the transmission in Park.

SQOD: the Park Pawl only locks up the front wheels?

As long as the center diff isn't locked you should be able to turn them. If you take the rear driveshaft off and don't lock the center diff you can roll the vehicle around in park. Reminder to chock the wheels.