PhuckItImDone
SILVER Star
Should I use the Factor55 Prolink or Flatlink E? Bought one, moved, couldn't find it, bought the other, naturally the first one turned up. So now it's a what do I put on, what do I sell?
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Should I use the Factor55 Prolink or Flatlink E? Bought one, moved, couldn't find it, bought the other, naturally the first one turned up. So now it's a what do I put on, what do I sell?
I'm sure i could, but its more work than I'm willing to put in, ill end up selling one to someone.
Awesome, how did it hold up?
EDIT: ugh, it says 2016-2020, my 11 is tooooo old.![]()
In for answer. I tried a cheap Amazon card, but it didn’t work in my ‘19.Where is the best price to get the toyota nav sd Map update for 2019 or 2020?
Part number is 86271-GN8LC-20 for 2020 and 86271-GN8LC-19 for 2019
Does anyone make this with a TOPO map overlay?
Is there any way to start the vehicle if the battery in the FOB is dead?
@Fisher23 Yes, press the fob against the starter button.
Regarding the NAV card - it's for sale here and the only one I found that looks legit.
But I wouldn't call it a great price:
Nav Msd Card V.20.1 - Toyota (86271-GN8LC-20)
Does anyone know when these get updated?
I'd hate to actually buy one of these things and have them come out with an update in a month.
I thought the last two digits to noted your model year of the vehicle. When I go to the Toyota parts website it tells me the latest for my 2019 Land Cruiser ends in 19They get updated every year in November. the last 2 digits indicate the update so ending in "20" indicates the 11/2020 update.
I asked the dealer the other day and that is what I was told.
Most dealers sell them for about $210, but I think jobber price is about $165.
I found it for $189 here
Nav Msd Card V23 86271-GN8LC-23 | OEM Parts Online
Nav Msd Card V23 86271-GN8LC-23parts.freemantoyota.com
I thought the last two digits to noted your model year of the vehicle. When I go to the Toyota parts website it tells me the latest for my 2019 Land Cruiser ends in 19
Zip Ties
did you ever figure out what the creak was? im having what i believe is the same issueThree days before a 3 day overland trip and I have a worrying front end creak/pop on drivers side. Fearing the CV issues, but for now, noticed the lower control arm (LCA) is moving when turning the wheel. This might be source of the metal rubbing sound.
Few questions:
1) Is any moment acceptable between the lower control arm and frame? In the pic you can see the difference between full tilt left versus right of the steering. I tightened the cam nut a bit, but I don’t have a torque wench for 207 ft lb… I did not want to break the bolt. The Toyota service manual -> Front Lower Suspension Arm > Installation, step 13 states tighten bolt and nut if lower sub-assembly to 207 ft lb. After tightening, I have less movement but the same creaking.
2) Has anyone had their LCA bushings fail?
3) Any other quick tips on ruling out CV issue. I did jack up the front and turn the wheel while in Park. No noticeable grinding.
4) Also, is it normal of the upper CV (joint to differential) to move in and out. (C in pic) I could have sworn I saw this move while my son was turning the wheel back and forth. But not 100% sure.
View attachment 2078695
I am not 100% sure if the sound is coming from the CV or the Lower Control Arm. Occasionally it sounds like it is ehco’ing off the skid plates (budbuilt) and coming from below the cab. I get the sound when turning the wheel and sometimes on suspension compression. (eg. taping the brakes) I don’t hear anything at speed, but most likely the road noise is just drowning it out. I have not yet noticed a rhythm to the noise (ie wheel/axle/cv spinning) But maybe my brain is blocking out the CV possibility.
2014 LC200 with ToughDog suspension. About 2.5in of lift. Very light built with only sliders and ALU skid plats. No Diff drop. About 6000 miles on the suspension. Only 46K on the truck. I still have stock Upper Control Arms. Still drives straight with what I think is acceptable tire wear. I will most likely have an aftermarket Upper Control Arm put on asap, but it's unlikely I can find anyone to do that or CV replace work in the next three days, so I feel that If I can rule out CV issues, I will continue with the trip. Plus buy a bigger torque wrench and tighten more, provided it's not the supposed to move and the bushings are not shot. Which is main question above.
Thanks,
noticed I am missing the small oil drain plug access cover and 2 bolts, anyone got a part number for this?
also need 1 each 12mm skid plate bolt (noticed during oil/filter change)
Can someone point me to instructions on how to tap and hardwire into the mirror 12v power on a ‘10? Looking to connect a dash cam under the front windshield mirror assembly. Thanks