SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (19 Viewers)

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Ok. I posted this question in the LX pic forum but though this might be a better place. I just installed 17” wheels with 285/75/17s. While I have no rubbing on full lock as far as I can tell at this point, what I do have is occasional rubbing while driving at speed on the highway and hitting a dip that causes deep compression. The rubbing is on the outer edge of the tire against a protruding edge of the liner just inside the wheel well. I am trying to figure out how to handle this. Any suggestions would be much appreciated:

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Top plate spacer might give you just enough clearance to prevent this. ...And it would level things out a bit.

Part# 43136-60020
 
Top plate spacer might give you just enough clearance to prevent this. ...And it would level things out a bit.

Part# 43136-60020

Thanks.

I’ve been considering this anyways, but I was hoping to wait for a while. If i can’t find an easy solution, I may need to move this near the top of the todo list.
 
It might be better to not try a home run on first bend but rather small increments? I have had a few misadventures by getting buck fever if you catch my drift.
 
Here's a head scratcher. Why would installing .75" Bora spacers improve the brake feel?!

Since I got my LC I haven't been impressed with the brakes. I have a hunch that the accumulator is going out, but I don't want to throw 2 grand at a hunch. I have had to double tap the brakes to get them to firm up for the past two years. Yesterday I had the spacers installed with my stock wheels, as I bought them planning on going to 34"s. I wanted to give a local shop some business, and I needed an alignment anyways. After the install I don't have to double tap the brakes. They have the right amount of pressure on the first press, every time. I called the guy afterwards asking if he did anything to the brakes, or if there was something dumb that he fixed. No changes at all to the brakes. Spacers installed, alignment performed, instant brake feel increase.

I motiv pressure bled the brake lines two weeks ago before I pulled a trailer 4,000 miles round trip. The brakes operated as I expected, double taps, the entire trip. And all week afterwards, before I dropped off the LC yesterday for the alignment/spacers.

What on earth could have happened?!
 
Here's a head scratcher. Why would installing .75" Bora spacers improve the brake feel?!

Since I got my LC I haven't been impressed with the brakes. I have a hunch that the accumulator is going out, but I don't want to throw 2 grand at a hunch. I have had to double tap the brakes to get them to firm up for the past two years. Yesterday I had the spacers installed with my stock wheels, as I bought them planning on going to 34"s. I wanted to give a local shop some business, and I needed an alignment anyways. After the install I don't have to double tap the brakes. They have the right amount of pressure on the first press, every time. I called the guy afterwards asking if he did anything to the brakes, or if there was something dumb that he fixed. No changes at all to the brakes. Spacers installed, alignment performed, instant brake feel increase.

I motiv pressure bled the brake lines two weeks ago before I pulled a trailer 4,000 miles round trip. The brakes operated as I expected, double taps, the entire trip. And all week afterwards, before I dropped off the LC yesterday for the alignment/spacers.

What on earth could have happened?!
Just a swag, but if you had some loose lug nuts, or some debris on the mounting surface of the wheel or disc, could a wheel been shifting slightly on the first tap?
 
With LC being a full-time 4wd, do tires need to be rotated? I do, but i have heard old saying that if you have full-time 4wd, rotation is much less needed?

Any truth?
 
With LC being a full-time 4wd, do tires need to be rotated? I do, but i have heard old saying that if you have full-time 4wd, rotation is much less needed?

Any truth?
You’ve got to rotate. The front axle tires experience a very different environment than the rear tires due to being an active during cornering. Think of two tires actively rotating at slightly different speeds while undergoing a lateral loading (forward momentum of the truck v deflection of the steering).

It can be even more exaggerated if you’re running other than factory offsets, more aggressive tread patterns, or larger tires. In other words, a change in scrub radius.
 
I can vouch for the fact that not rotating can result in uneven wear. I badly scalloped the outside edges of my last KO2s by not rotating. I replaced them much sooner than I should have due to road noise.
 
Here's a head scratcher. Why would installing .75" Bora spacers improve the brake feel?!

Since I got my LC I haven't been impressed with the brakes. I have a hunch that the accumulator is going out, but I don't want to throw 2 grand at a hunch. I have had to double tap the brakes to get them to firm up for the past two years. Yesterday I had the spacers installed with my stock wheels, as I bought them planning on going to 34"s. I wanted to give a local shop some business, and I needed an alignment anyways. After the install I don't have to double tap the brakes. They have the right amount of pressure on the first press, every time. I called the guy afterwards asking if he did anything to the brakes, or if there was something dumb that he fixed. No changes at all to the brakes. Spacers installed, alignment performed, instant brake feel increase.

I motiv pressure bled the brake lines two weeks ago before I pulled a trailer 4,000 miles round trip. The brakes operated as I expected, double taps, the entire trip. And all week afterwards, before I dropped off the LC yesterday for the alignment/spacers.

What on earth could have happened?!

What your describing sounds like a form of brake pad knockback. Meaning something is causing the brake pads and brake caliper piston to be pushed away from the brake rotor surface. Normally when not braking, the pads continue to ride on the rotor surface. with very little pressure. Some run-out or deflection of the rotor is causing the pads to push further away from the rotor than normal. Your first brake application will close that distance, then the second brake application will perform as normal.

This usually happens in highly modified race cars on the track when there's deflection of the stub axle causing the rotor to push the brake pads in.

In your case, could be what @fasteddie2015 is proposing. Loose lugs causing rotor deflection. Or debris on the mounting surface (either between axle and rotor, or rotor and wheel) causing runout. Do you experience any vibration during normal driving? Braking?

Could also be worn wheel bearings causing abnormal deflection of the rotor. Check for play.

I'd keep an eye on it as you seem to no longer have the symptoms but it is something that you will definitely want to fix if it re-occurs.
 
My SQOD -

I am going to be removing my winter set-up in the near future. I will be mounting KO2s on a set of TRD Pro rims. I have the previous generation TRD Pro rims. See pic. I have TRD Pro center caps. I am wondering if the regular Tundra center caps that are all black with the silver Toyota will fit the TRD Pro rim...? The part number for the all black center cap is 4260B-0C040. Looking at pictures they look the same...but would like to confirm they fit before I buy 4 of them. Anybody here running all black center caps on TRD Pro rims? It's not that I don't like the TRD Pro center caps, I just prefer the all black. TIA!

Guy

RIM.jpg


s-l1600.jpg


trd pro cap.jpg
 
What your describing sounds like a form of brake pad knockback. Meaning something is causing the brake pads and brake caliper piston to be pushed away from the brake rotor surface. Normally when not braking, the pads continue to ride on the rotor surface. with very little pressure. Some run-out or deflection of the rotor is causing the pads to push further away from the rotor than normal. Your first brake application will close that distance, then the second brake application will perform as normal.

This usually happens in highly modified race cars on the track when there's deflection of the stub axle causing the rotor to push the brake pads in.

In your case, could be what @fasteddie2015 is proposing. Loose lugs causing rotor deflection. Or debris on the mounting surface (either between axle and rotor, or rotor and wheel) causing runout. Do you experience any vibration during normal driving? Braking?

Could also be worn wheel bearings causing abnormal deflection of the rotor. Check for play.

I'd keep an eye on it as you seem to no longer have the symptoms but it is something that you will definitely want to fix if it re-occurs.

Thank you for the detailed response. I was searching the web trying to figure out what terms to use to describe what's happening, but not having much luck. This does sound like it's the exact issue that I'm having. I don't have any vibration while driving. I have had this issue since I got the cruiser. It came with what I assume were stock Toyota rotors which I replaced with DBA rotors, the issue persisted. The issue seems to be fixed at the moment. I'll have to keep an eye on things. What I'm thinking happened was that the surface was cleaned to install the spacers flush. I don't know about loose lugs, as I still have the same lugs in play at the moment, with a resolved issue. I've had the wheels off and on many times, 98 ft lbs when reinstalling.
 
Interestingly enough that the problem persisted through rotor changes and several wheel mounts/dismounts. Do you have a trusted torque wrench to know you weren't systemically under torquing the wheel bolts (97 ft-lb)? If not lug torque, or some other reason that causes rotor runout...

It's weird but plausible that the spacer improved geometry enough such that it's not stressing the wheel bearings as much. I would test whether there's too much play in the bearings.

Do some long hard turns like freeway ramps, both left and right. Or a series hard back and forth turns like you were warming up the tires in Nascar. Something that puts good load on the bearings. Does the problem return?

Have a mechanic check for excess play in the bearings by putting the car up on a lift.

Very well could be the calipers themselves, but that seemingly wouldn't improve with a spacer install.
 
Anyone know where to find a factory kdss enclosure? Just realized mine is missing.
 

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