SQRRRL
SILVER Star
Heat gun/ hair dryer. Shape plastic to your liking.
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Heat gun/ hair dryer. Shape plastic to your liking.
Ok. I posted this question in the LX pic forum but though this might be a better place. I just installed 17” wheels with 285/75/17s. While I have no rubbing on full lock as far as I can tell at this point, what I do have is occasional rubbing while driving at speed on the highway and hitting a dip that causes deep compression. The rubbing is on the outer edge of the tire against a protruding edge of the liner just inside the wheel well. I am trying to figure out how to handle this. Any suggestions would be much appreciated:
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Top plate spacer might give you just enough clearance to prevent this. ...And it would level things out a bit.
Part# 43136-60020
What could be any easier, hair dryer or heat gun and 1 adult beverage per side?
Just a swag, but if you had some loose lug nuts, or some debris on the mounting surface of the wheel or disc, could a wheel been shifting slightly on the first tap?Here's a head scratcher. Why would installing .75" Bora spacers improve the brake feel?!
Since I got my LC I haven't been impressed with the brakes. I have a hunch that the accumulator is going out, but I don't want to throw 2 grand at a hunch. I have had to double tap the brakes to get them to firm up for the past two years. Yesterday I had the spacers installed with my stock wheels, as I bought them planning on going to 34"s. I wanted to give a local shop some business, and I needed an alignment anyways. After the install I don't have to double tap the brakes. They have the right amount of pressure on the first press, every time. I called the guy afterwards asking if he did anything to the brakes, or if there was something dumb that he fixed. No changes at all to the brakes. Spacers installed, alignment performed, instant brake feel increase.
I motiv pressure bled the brake lines two weeks ago before I pulled a trailer 4,000 miles round trip. The brakes operated as I expected, double taps, the entire trip. And all week afterwards, before I dropped off the LC yesterday for the alignment/spacers.
What on earth could have happened?!
You’ve got to rotate. The front axle tires experience a very different environment than the rear tires due to being an active during cornering. Think of two tires actively rotating at slightly different speeds while undergoing a lateral loading (forward momentum of the truck v deflection of the steering).With LC being a full-time 4wd, do tires need to be rotated? I do, but i have heard old saying that if you have full-time 4wd, rotation is much less needed?
Any truth?
Here's a head scratcher. Why would installing .75" Bora spacers improve the brake feel?!
Since I got my LC I haven't been impressed with the brakes. I have a hunch that the accumulator is going out, but I don't want to throw 2 grand at a hunch. I have had to double tap the brakes to get them to firm up for the past two years. Yesterday I had the spacers installed with my stock wheels, as I bought them planning on going to 34"s. I wanted to give a local shop some business, and I needed an alignment anyways. After the install I don't have to double tap the brakes. They have the right amount of pressure on the first press, every time. I called the guy afterwards asking if he did anything to the brakes, or if there was something dumb that he fixed. No changes at all to the brakes. Spacers installed, alignment performed, instant brake feel increase.
I motiv pressure bled the brake lines two weeks ago before I pulled a trailer 4,000 miles round trip. The brakes operated as I expected, double taps, the entire trip. And all week afterwards, before I dropped off the LC yesterday for the alignment/spacers.
What on earth could have happened?!
What your describing sounds like a form of brake pad knockback. Meaning something is causing the brake pads and brake caliper piston to be pushed away from the brake rotor surface. Normally when not braking, the pads continue to ride on the rotor surface. with very little pressure. Some run-out or deflection of the rotor is causing the pads to push further away from the rotor than normal. Your first brake application will close that distance, then the second brake application will perform as normal.
This usually happens in highly modified race cars on the track when there's deflection of the stub axle causing the rotor to push the brake pads in.
In your case, could be what @fasteddie2015 is proposing. Loose lugs causing rotor deflection. Or debris on the mounting surface (either between axle and rotor, or rotor and wheel) causing runout. Do you experience any vibration during normal driving? Braking?
Could also be worn wheel bearings causing abnormal deflection of the rotor. Check for play.
I'd keep an eye on it as you seem to no longer have the symptoms but it is something that you will definitely want to fix if it re-occurs.
Anyone know where to find a factory kdss enclosure? Just realized mine is missing.