Look at the engine size supported and go from there. Was a big thread on jump boxes last summer with several recommendations. Lots like the noco.
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter JamesC
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I bought this one. It is good for three consecutive starts (at least). I have to recharge every four months it gets down to 80% in that time.
This may be a stupid question, so it probably belongs here, but the posts above about jump packs reminded me of a question I've had for a while. If these jump packs are able to start a vehicle with a totally dead battery, while being *much* smaller, lighter, and possibly cheaper than a 12V battery, why aren't manufacturers using the jump-pack tech instead?
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Mostly related to cost and that a standard lead acid battery is a perfectly fine way to start a car. Peep these answers:
When will we see lithium-ion batteries as starting batteries in gasoline cars?
Answer (1 of 4): No, you won’t unless there’s a huge drop in cost. Lithium batteries are much more expensive for their energy vs similar lead acid cells commonly used to start cars. Because a starter battery is a small item of the cars weight, the much heavier lead acid battery is not a huge pena...
Fancy supercars have started to adopt the technology, I just checked the replacement battery cost for a McLaren 570s: $1,650
And yes, that's for a used battery. MSRP on a new one is nearly $2,500.
Eventually the batteries will get down in price, plus they need to modify the charging circuitry to work with the more advanced chemistry. Stay tuned.
Sac Cerevisiae
Reid
I’m planning on greasing the propeller / driveshaft this weekend but I’m unclear on which type of grease to use. FSM calls for “Lithium based chassis grease (NLGI 2)”. The diagram points out all six zerks, however if I understand correctly, universal / spider joints should not have molybdenum.
Do I need two separate greases for the slip joints and the u joints? Is it ok to use non-moly on the slips, or to use moly in the I joints?
I’ve read most of the threads discussing manufacturer preferences: e.g. Green Grease, Schaeffer 238, Lucas Red ‘N Tacky. Feel free to add your opinion as well.
Do I need two separate greases for the slip joints and the u joints? Is it ok to use non-moly on the slips, or to use moly in the I joints?
I’ve read most of the threads discussing manufacturer preferences: e.g. Green Grease, Schaeffer 238, Lucas Red ‘N Tacky. Feel free to add your opinion as well.
Do you want the technical answer or practical answer? I usually side on the technical side. For this however...
Buy any one of your favorite chassis greases in a 12.5oz pump cartridge and go to town. Mobil 1 Synthetic for chassis, wheel bearings, suspension is what I'm using at the moment as that's what's in my single gun, but any grease will work. IMO, it's more important to grease it regularly (I do it with every oil change) than any particular grease. Yet Toyota driveshafts have been known to go a lifetime without any grease as their owners didn't know better (and dealerships are lazy).
Sac Cerevisiae
Reid
I tend to side on technical most of the time, however I’m glad to hear that I can just pick one and go.
So any thoughts on moly percentages?
i think this is stupid question ...
What locker is available for the 2016+ on the front?
I was thinking of going with ARB lockers and part number RD151 (front) and RD152 rear however the ARB documentation says
"2016 on USA 200 series with 8 speed Auto 34.8 (1.37")=shaft diameter; 34=spline 3.307=ratio NA=availability" meaning the 2016+ USA version has a gear ratio of 3.307 in the front diff and there is no ARB front locker vailable for it? .. If I am reading that right?
I think it means the "RD152" can be used for the rear and nothing from ARB is available for the 2016+ Front .. is that correct?
What locker is available for the 2016+ on the front?
I was thinking of going with ARB lockers and part number RD151 (front) and RD152 rear however the ARB documentation says
"2016 on USA 200 series with 8 speed Auto 34.8 (1.37")=shaft diameter; 34=spline 3.307=ratio NA=availability" meaning the 2016+ USA version has a gear ratio of 3.307 in the front diff and there is no ARB front locker vailable for it? .. If I am reading that right?
I think it means the "RD152" can be used for the rear and nothing from ARB is available for the 2016+ Front .. is that correct?
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Sac Cerevisiae
Reid
After some additional research, per the 2016 OM, non-moly grease may be used in all locations (Slip/Slide Yokes & Universal/Spiders Joints). I purchased Lucas #2 Red "N" Tacky.
Chassis Grease / Lubrication Info
Front Propeller Shaft
Rear Propeller Shaft
afgman786
SILVER Star
This may have been discussed somewhere, but is there anyway to not have my high beams receive low draw to be the DRL. Even in the off position this is still happening. I run LED for high and low so it makes the high flicker. My way around for this has been just running my headlights on. Mine is a 2008
There is a grey metal resistor in the passenger side engine compartment, just in front of the PS reservoir You can bypass it, I believe, but then you'll be running hi beams at full power for DRLs. IIRC, you can turn off the DRLs by unplugging that resistor. (Worth a try) Later trucks have an option in the Nav screen to turn off the DRLs but I don't think a 2008 model does. This is all based on recall of things I've read, not on personal experience, so take it with a grain of salt.
Replace the LED high beams with some 2011. They are extremely bright and have a wonderful warm color temp.
Just have someone with Techstream disable the DRLs for you. Very easy process once you're in there. I did that on my 2008, and everything works as it should, just no DRLs.
afgman786
SILVER Star
Thanks! Now I just need to find someone with tech stream in the DC/NOVA area
Please confirm this is the correct TRD filter for ‘10 200. Thx!
And my turn, with my new to me LX570, after completing a turn - my turn signal doesn't stop blinking. Is this normal behavior? All my other cars, once the turn is complete, the blinker turns off. Even the wife's GX 2011.
Markuson
SILVER Star
There are trip-points in your steering that release the stick once you turn your wheel back tire straight after a turn.
You should be able to HEAR when it trips, and there are quite a few points. To hear all of the points, hold your keep holding the signal stick to on as you straighten for a full-lock turn. When you do, you should hear a number of clicks or small thumps as you hit the trip points.
If you hear nothing? Someone screwed up inside there somewhere or for got to attach some trigger, or whatever it’s called.
Normal trips are not activated with small lane changes on a highway though. Only if a turn spins your steering wheel a good bit off of straight, etc.
Google says that’s the right part number. As long as the filter in the box is correct, you should be good to go.
