@Mogwai any input on this from your recent repair? I know these parts were replaced as part of your WP install, but how long would you estimate the replacement of the idler and tensioner pulleys to take? Do you have the torque specs for bolts?
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (3 Viewers)
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@Mogwai any input on this from your recent repair? I know these parts were replaced as part of your WP install, but how long would you estimate the replacement of the idler and tensioner pulleys to take? Do you have the torque specs for bolts?
He posted up the FSM pages I gave him. If you need them again, I can dig them up. But they're on the forum somewheres.
@TonyP - I checked out the FSM pages in his write-up, but didn't see the pulleys in question mentioned in the manual screenshots.
Would you happen to have those page screenshots?
When I tackle this project, I'd like to throw together a write-up for posterity.
A couple hours is my best guess since you've done a similar exchange before, should be easier than doing the WP and thermostat (but why not replace these at the same time unless you know they've already been changed?
TonyP could get you any of the missing FSM pages - I also referenced the Tundra Chiltons manual.
DM if you have any questions, I realize I took a bunch of pics but not too many of the pulleys.
Here you go for the torques. It's for replacing the entire front cover so disregard the sequence. Let me know if it's missing something.
supercarrera
Club Esprit de Four
I think once upon a time, for earlier Land Cruiser generations, these spoilers used to be designed to vent the airflow down over the rear hatch and tailgate to keep dirt from sticking to them. The one on my LX seems to not have that functionality. It seems like the LX spoiler is there just for looks and to provide shade on the back window only. I kind of like the looks of these without the spoiler. Does anyone know what is involved with removing them and what kind of bolt holes, if any are left behind when removed?
supercarrera
Club Esprit de Four
I guess it fastens to the bolts that fasten the hatch to the hinges? I don't really see where there are any other bolts it could fasten to.
Nope, you need to pull the top interior trim off. Also, there are two on the outside under rubber caps.
The creamy substance got 1/2 way up bottom grate. Does this draw air in, and cool before being blown back into cooler from top grill?
Smells like Holy Hell.
Outing baking soda in shallow bowl into cooler
Overnight and seeing if it draws
Out some of the stench.
Markuson
SILVER Star
I do wish for dust clearer scoops back there. My 100 series didn't have one, but my friend's did, and it actually helped.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Unfortunately for you...yes, that lower grill is the in-take...and top is blower.
Bummer.
gaijin
GOLD Star
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
@supercarrera , if you remove the rear spoiler, you will be left with 4 holes to fill. the previous owners of my truck used a garage door to remove their spoiler.... I filled the holes with silicon,(rush job) as we were in the rainy season and I was getting water inside the rear hatch.
plastic plugs with a marine, or white silicon will cover the holes nicely.
plastic plugs with a marine, or white silicon will cover the holes nicely.
The spoilers on the rear of SUVs are there for aerodynamics these days. Not so much for dirt clearing. You'd be surprised how much that spoiler affects aero drag. I also dislike it cause it tends to interfere with stuff on the roof rack when it extends beyond the car. But I would not take it off due to potential efficiency losses.
My wife has a RAV4 EV. It has an extended spoiler longer than the run of the mills RAV4s. In the technology brief for that car, it is said that the extension further reduced drag significantly and was compared to removing a tethered chute worth of drag.
My wife has a RAV4 EV. It has an extended spoiler longer than the run of the mills RAV4s. In the technology brief for that car, it is said that the extension further reduced drag significantly and was compared to removing a tethered chute worth of drag.
Not sure how the skid plates are arranged... though potentially with a Fumoto oil drain valve and a short section of tubing, you could drain the oil with skid plate in place? I imagine one could reach around the side of the skid plate to open the valve?
Other than BudBuilt I’m not aware of a skid you can access the filter/drain without removing it.
I’ve owned my first Land Cruiser for about three weeks now, a 2014. I was at an event and a guy was all excited to check out my new rig. He has a 100 or 80 series. He was asking me about auto height control (AHC) and I told him I didn’t think mine had it. He was certain they all had it because the 100s all had it and was looking for the switch(es). He finally said it must be controll via the screen and wandered off.
I’ve checked the manual and searched online. Best I can figure only the Lexus LX570s have it and not the Toyota Land Cruisers. So my SQoD is just that.
I’ve checked the manual and searched online. Best I can figure only the Lexus LX570s have it and not the Toyota Land Cruisers. So my SQoD is just that.
He was wrong.
Early 100s of the LC variety did not have it. AFAIK all the 100 LXs had it (my 2000 LX has it), and I think it was an option for the later LC 100s (beginning in 2004 or '05?).
In the US none of the LC 200s have AHC (unless it got added to the 2018 model). It wasn't available for my '17.
