SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (30 Viewers)

[MrCWineMan]

So at least it's "normal". I'd ask my dealer but they only sell one, sometimes two LCs in a year, so...

Are you suggesting they use the camera below the cowboy hat and combine it with the windshield camera in some sort of composite for the forward facing view?

I thought that at first, but wouldn't it be sort of backwards since the windshield camera is clear in the wedge shape (so the other part would be the dim part)?

Yeah, the dealers done see very many of these so their knowledge is thin.

You are correct, I am saying that the “below the hat” cam is the clear and the windshield cam is the tinted section: my assumption is, that since the upper front facing camera assists with adaptive cruise and auto high beams , that it must have a tinted lense to decrease sun and headlight interference, and when it gets combined into the composite, the tint is showing.

Now instead of me guessing more, I’m going down to the car and testing this right now.

 

[MrCWineMan]

Yeah, the dealers done see very many of these so their knowledge is thin.

You are correct, I am saying that the “below the hat” cam is the clear and the windshield cam is the tinted section: my assumption is, that since the upper front facing camera assists with adaptive cruise and auto high beams , that it must have a tinted lense to decrease sun and headlight interference, and when it gets combined into the composite, the tint is showing.

Now instead of me guessing more, I’m going down to the car and testing this right now.

And with some judicious sticky note use I have proved myself wrong. Cover the top camera and the forward display does not change, cover the “below the hat” cam and lose the entire display. So..... Toyota decided to gray out the top portion of the image or tint a tiny sliver of the lense.

 

[LBridges]

Thanks. While you might have been wrong, at least you had more on the ball then me - and went out to test.

Right now I'd say @mcgaskins has the most probable answer - especially given how lawsuit shy Toyota is these days (with cause).

 

[kevinfoutch]

I have a SQOD related to the wireless remote key FOB / push to start button / proximity sensor. Periodically, about once a quarter, I'll shut off the engine, exit the vehicle, close the door, and I won't be able to lock the doors using the push button on the handle. Also, I am unable press the lock button on the FOB from a relatively close distance to lock the doors - the vehicle simply doesn't respond.

When this happens, I enter the still-unlocked vehicle, and I'll need to place the key FOB on the push-to-start button to 're-initialize' (my words) the FOB with the vehicle. Then, I can exit, lock & unlock the doors as expected.

I've searched the 2011 LC Owner's manual and came up empty as to why I have to place the FOB on the PTS button. It's just an annoying thing, and I wondered if anyone knew what was causing it?

The FOB battery is relatively new, about 2 months old. Note, I have witnessed (and reported elsewhere on MUD) that my FOB battery life is terrible - I replace, on average, every 6 months. Not sure if this is related or not.

Any ideas why I have to place my FOB on the PTS button about once every three months? Thanks!

Edit - due to above terrible battery life, I have been using both of my FOBs on rotation spanning several months per at bat. I cannot rule out this PTS re-syncing issue is due to only one FOB, or both.

 

[gaijin]

I have a SQOD related to the wireless remote key FOB / push to start button / proximity sensor. Periodically, about once a quarter, I'll shut off the engine, exit the vehicle, close the door, and I won't be able to lock the doors using the push button on the handle. Also, I am unable press the lock button on the FOB from a relatively close distance to lock the doors - the vehicle simply doesn't respond.

When this happens, I enter the still-unlocked vehicle, and I'll need to place the key FOB on the push-to-start button to 're-initialize' (my words) the FOB with the vehicle. Then, I can exit, lock & unlock the doors as expected.

I've searched the 2011 LC Owner's manual and came up empty as to why I have to place the FOB on the PTS button. It's just an annoying thing, and I wondered if anyone knew what was causing it?

The FOB battery is relatively new, about 2 months old. Note, I have witnessed (and reported elsewhere on MUD) that my FOB battery life is terrible - I replace, on average, every 6 months. Not sure if this is related or not.

Any ideas why I have to place my FOB on the PTS button about once every three months? Thanks!

Edit - due to above terrible battery life, I have been using both of my FOBs on rotation spanning several months per at bat. I cannot rule out this PTS re-syncing issue is due to only one FOB, or both.

Do you, by any chance, keep your alternate key fob inside the vehicle - or in close (within 20 feet) proximity - when not in use? Your symptoms suggest that the vehicle is recognizing two fobs at the same time. This would account for the reluctance to lock and also the reduced battery life. It is best not to store a fob in the vehicle, and to always keep all fobs well away from the vehicle when not in use. It is also advisable to keep the vehicle locked at all times when not in use.

HTH

 

[KLF]

It is also advisable to keep the vehicle locked at all times when not in use.

Even when it's in my garage? Well that's a pain.

My gripe is the sensors seem to have gone numb. Often when I approach the truck (doors locked, spare key at home), the interior lights will wake up, so I know the truck know's I'm there, but when I put my hand on the door handle, nothing happens. Hand off, back on... still nothing. Sometimes it takes 3-4 tries to get the truck to unlock the doors. I feel like a damned fool doing this hand on, hand off dance out in the parking lot.

And often when I get out and shut the doors, I have to push the little button on the door or tailgate 3-4 times to get the truck to lock. Really annoying.

 

[kevinfoutch]

Do you, by any chance, keep your alternate key fob inside the vehicle - or in close (within 20 feet) proximity - when not in use? Your symptoms suggest that the vehicle is recognizing two fobs at the same time. This would account for the reluctance to lock and also the reduced battery life. It is best not to store a fob in the vehicle, and to always keep all fobs well away from the vehicle when not in use. It is also advisable to keep the vehicle locked at all times when not in use.

HTH

The keys are stored inside the house, about 15 feet from the vehicle. Never keep one inside. Also, the strange behavior never happens at home, always while out and about.

I don't lock my car while it is parked in my garage, but I could see where an unlocked state might keep some of the electrical dodads from going dormant, so I'll try locking the doors at all times and see if that improves battery life at least.

 

[Swampmonger]

Next month we'll be moving out of the desert to a place where it actually rains. What should I do to prepare? DIY Fluid Film and grease up the KDSS valves? Find a Fluid Film installer? Have the dealer install undercoating?

 

[Willy beamin]

Next month we'll be moving out of the desert to a place where it actually rains. What should I do to prepare? DIY Fluid Film and grease up the KDSS valves? Find a Fluid Film installer? Have the dealer install undercoating?

Maybe clean out your drain plugs. What you mentioned above would be excellent to do especially if you think metal will rust where ever you're headed - best of luck on your move!

 

[Ali FJ80]

The keys are stored inside the house, about 15 feet from the vehicle. Never keep one inside. Also, the strange behavior never happens at home, always while out and about.

I don't lock my car while it is parked in my garage, but I could see where an unlocked state might keep some of the electrical dodads from going dormant, so I'll try locking the doors at all times and see if that improves battery life at least.

Hey Kevin, have you checked to see if you have any codes stored for the keyless entry system with techstream. I have both of ours one always unlocked in the garage and one out always locked right outside with all fobs within 15 feet and have had instances where multiple fobs are in the car (wife has one in her bag and if I'm driving hers I have one also) and zero issues. Your symptoms and constantly dying batteries makes it seem as though something is off somewhere in the system.

 

[kevinfoutch]

I'll take a look - I remember a while back I checked TS for another reason (was going to add the Lexus credit card FOB) and think only my two fob's were listed but I'll definitely check that out. Thanks!

 

[Ali FJ80]

Sorry, I meant error codes. If there is an issue the ecu may save a diagnostic code.

 

[Swampmonger]

Will the LC ever control the A/C on it's own with the climate control set to full auto? In AZ it never really gets that cold, but I would have thought the auto A/C would have turned off in the 40s and 50s. I've seen it control the heat (with A/C on), the fan speed, the vent(s) used, the recirc setting, and the seat heaters/vent. So far, though, I've had to turn the AC on and off manually and once on/off it seems to stay that way until I change it again.

 

[Ali FJ80]

On auto it will always keep the compressor on even when you raise the temp to heat. Its to pull humidity out of the cabin which helps your windows not to fog up.

 

[Swampmonger]

On auto it will always keep the compressor on even when you raise the temp to heat. Its to pull humidity out of the cabin which helps your windows not to fog up.

I assume when it’s cold outside the compressor has very little load on it so there’s no reason not to just leave it on?

 

[KLF]

In my experience with this truck and all the Lexus cars (4) I've had, any time you push the Auto button, it will also turn on the AC compressor. However, the system has a humidistat and a temp sensor, so it will know when the incoming air is too cold and may cause icing on the evaporator coil. It will then automatically disengage the compressor clutch.

 

[Ali FJ80]

Agree with KLF and not just Toyota/Lexus, all the brands I have seen do the same thing when you use the auto function.

It will regulate when it is needed and not needed automatically. No ill effect will occur by just leaving it on all the time.

 

[OregonLC]

I haven't tried this on the 200 (never really cared for the auto mode on any vehicle I've had), however on other vehicles you can start deselecting auto features with the remaining features still on auto. For example, you can turn off the a/c and manually select the outlet mode and the fan will continue to ramp based upon temperature select. This doesn't, however, work with in either of the defog modes. In that case the a/c will always be on.

Living in a moderate climate, I've always had the habit of running a/c off except when needed. Continuos running has a slight penalty in milage and some degree of addtional wear on a moving part.

 

[Markuson]

I haven't tried this on the 200 (never really cared for the auto mode on any vehicle I've had), however on other vehicles you can start deselecting auto features with the remaining features still on auto. For example, you can turn off the a/c and manually select the outlet mode and the fan will continue to ramp based upon temperature select. This doesn't, however, work with in either of the defog modes. In that case the a/c will always be on.

Living in a moderate climate, I've always had the habit of running a/c off except when needed. Continuos running has a slight penalty in milage and some degree of addtional wear on a moving part.

Just to throw in another detail...the cool-box also depends on the AC compressor...

 

[TonyP]

My toyota emblem was iced up on the interstate so the radar cruise wasn't working. Found out you can press and hold the cruise control stalk back to switch to regular cruise without radar. Also, in regular cruise mode you can adjust the speed in 1mph increments as opposed to 5mph in radar mode. Never knew that. Maybe I'm just late to the show.