SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (6 Viewers)

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Is there any way to make the XM weather app default to my closest major city for the forecast feature? I'm getting severe weather alerts so I know it's linked somehow via GPS. I always have to scroll and select Chicago when I want to check the forcast.
 
Earlier this week it was a bit chilly here (well, for here at least, low 40's) and a couple mornings in a row the CDL light was flashing. Once I drove it for a bit it would be off the next time I started it. I read the threads that came up, just wondering if anyone else has had this happen?
 
CDL = Center Diff Light Lock... Yep, lots of us have had this happen. Multiple threads on it as you stated. This winter was the first season where I really used my center diff lock and after a bunch of use, I have not seen the blinking diff lock light show up. Not sure if it just needs some frequent actuation or not, but it has definitely been seen by a bunch of us on this forum.
 
LCHardriver_02 said:
CDL = Center Diff Light Lock... Yep, lots of us have had this happen. Multiple threads on it as you stated. This winter was the first season where I really used my center diff lock and after a bunch of use, I have not seen the blinking diff lock light show up. Not sure if it just needs some frequent actuation or not, but it has definitely been seen by a bunch of us on this forum.
Click to expand...

Typically the user manuals on Toyotas with a CDL say to use them every month, as well as put the car in 4L. On the 4Runners, not locking the CDL frequently can make it stop working, and cause the seal to leak, which is a PITA to fix. Regular CDL use is a good idea.
 
LCHardriver_02 said:
CDL = Center Diff Light Lock... Yep, lots of us have had this happen. Multiple threads on it as you stated. This winter was the first season where I really used my center diff lock and after a bunch of use, I have not seen the blinking diff lock light show up. Not sure if it just needs some frequent actuation or not, but it has definitely been seen by a bunch of us on this forum.
Click to expand...

Thanks, what's odd is that I've had it locked (and required) less than a month ago. Only change was the cold weather...
 
Another question - what type of locking hitch pin are any of you using?

I bought one but it didn't fit, even after taking it to the grinding wheel it wouldn't fit in there, and I didn't want to start cutting plastic away...
 
ethernectar said:
Another question - what type of locking hitch pin are any of you using?

I bought one but it didn't fit, even after taking it to the grinding wheel it wouldn't fit in there, and I didn't want to start cutting plastic away...
Click to expand...
I use this but had to trim the plastic weather stripping off - super tight fit. Have to access key hole from bottom through where you'd attach safety chains.

Amazon.com: Master Lock 1469DAT 5/8" Heavy Duty Receiver Lock: Automotive

IMG_20170305_170544.jpg


(Ignore the dirt - thankfully that isn't rust even tho the crappy photo looks that way!)

Edit - have to give credit for this solution to one of the fellow Mudder's although I can't remember who! :bang:
 
Last edited:
I've got one that fits without any trimming, but it has no markings except for CCB on the key...
 
ethernectar said:
Another question - what type of locking hitch pin are any of you using?

I bought one but it didn't fit, even after taking it to the grinding wheel it wouldn't fit in there, and I didn't want to start cutting plastic away...
Click to expand...

I've been using this one for the past 5 years - it fits without any trimming or grinding:

HitchLock1_06MAR17_zps0iigy3xj.jpg


HitchLock2_06MAR17_zpsqdu138su.jpg


HitchLock3_06MAR17_zpsyrqpfrr9.jpg


If buying again today, I'd get the all stainless model not the red epoxy coated model I have - the red coating is starting to fail. All stainless model available here: Amazon.com: Trimax SXT3 Premium 5/8" Key Receiver Lock: Automotive

HTH
 
For the DIY suspension guru's, how the h--l do you torque the lower control arms rear nut to 207 ft/lbs? Per the manual (TIS) and local knowledge here on mud this must be done with the vehicle on the ground. Lots of room to loosen the control arm fasteners when on the jack stands, precious little when not. I was able to torque the fronts with an extension and the torque wrench handle out towards the tires. But the back nut/bolts now way, not enough room to get even a "click" on the torque wrench between the garage floor and the frame.
 
I tighten mine as much as I can given the room provided. I'm not sure I got them all the way to 207 ft/lbs but neither are they exactly loose. I always tighten my LCA cam bolts after an alignment due to three different times having them finger loose after an alignment. It's hard to believe there are that many incompetent mechs out there but I've learned the hard way.
 
Narkhelek said:
I tighten mine as much as I can given the room provided. I'm not sure I got them all the way to 207 ft/lbs but neither are they exactly loose.
Click to expand...

For the rear bolts I also tightened them as much as possible, then used my foot on the 1/2" drive ratchet for a bit more. The OCD person in me doesn't like leaving those two bolts at just tight. I used the Toyota TIS to get the correct torque for everything I put back together, well almost everything.
 
Spent a good bit of time searching and a good bit of time playing with fuses... figure it's time to call in the cavalry before i break something... I'm installing a dash cam with a hardwire power cable. I am connecting using the fuses in the driver side foot well area. I've connected my ACC cable to "RADIO" and my B+ or always-on cable to "DOME". I've tried numerous other configurations and they always end up with either 1.) Turn the vehicle off and the dashcam dies, or 2.) Turn the vehicle off and the dashcam stays on, but doesn't detect that the vehicle has turned off.

I really thought the radio fuse was a good ACC one to connect to. As I said, I've tried others, but maybe someone knows a better one that I may not have tried?

I'm using a Thinkware F770.
 
Question, and it surely belongs here :p Has to do with type of oil to use for Front/Rear Diffs vs Transfer case (center diff). FSM calls for "Toyota Genuine Diff Gear Oil LT 75W-85 or equiv). And for the transfer case "Toyota Genuine Transfer Gear Oil LF SAE 75W or quiv". Is there a difference between the Diff Oil and Trans Oil? I watched @MScruiser youtube vids and it seems he used the same Mobile 1 Synthetic 75W-90 in all three applications (front, rear, and trans/center). Looking to confirm the gear oil is the same in all three, plan to do this service soon.
 
Mogwai said:
Question, and it surely belongs here :p Has to do with type of oil to use for Front/Rear Diffs vs Transfer case (center diff). FSM calls for "Toyota Genuine Diff Gear Oil LT 75W-85 or equiv). And for the transfer case "Toyota Genuine Transfer Gear Oil LF SAE 75W or quiv". Is there a difference between the Diff Oil and Trans Oil? I watched @MScruiser youtube vids and it seems he used the same Mobile 1 Synthetic 75W-90 in all three applications (front, rear, and trans/center). Looking to confirm the gear oil is the same in all three, plan to do this service soon.
Click to expand...

M1 Syn 75w-90 is an excellent replacement for 75w-85 (which is hard to find) to use in the diffs and transfer case. I have done the same in 2 Tacomas, Tundra, 2 FT 4WD 4Runners and will do to my LC when it is due.
 
I have 2 questions about camping inside the 200 with the key fob inside the truck with you. If you have the key inside and the doors are locked, can someone walk up to it and unlock it by trying to open the handle because of the proximity of the key? This is on the 13+ of course because I don't think the earlier 200s had the comfort access or whatever it is in Toyota speak. Also I'm fairly confident there is no motion sensor inside the 200, but I wanted to verify there wasn't one that had to be turned off before sleeping inside. Several German cars I've owned in the past had the motion sensors that needed to be defeated with a very subtle and usually hidden button if you or your pets were going to be in the car after you locked it.
 
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