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Here's the yaw sensor reset procedure, which looks like it's also to be used to reset the skid control ECU. In the TIS docs this is under "VSC->Calibration"

Last Modified: 2-6-2018​
6.8:8.0.48Doc ID: RM00000452J00EX
Model Year Start: 2013​
Model: Land Cruiser​
Prod Date Range: [01/2012 - ]​
Title: BRAKE CONTROL / DYNAMIC CONTROL SYSTEMS: VEHICLE STABILITY CONTROL SYSTEM: CALIBRATION; 2013 MY Land Cruiser [01/2012 - ]​
CALIBRATION
1. DESCRIPTION
(a) After replacing VSC-related components, clearing and reading the sensor calibration data and system information is necessary.
(b) Follow the chart to perform calibration.
REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT PART​
NECESSARY OPERATION​
Skid Control ECU (Master Cylinder Solenoid)
  1. Clearing zero point calibration data
  2. Yaw rate and acceleration sensor zero point calibration
Yaw Rate Sensor Assembly
  1. Clearing zero point calibration data
  2. Yaw rate and acceleration sensor zero point calibration
2. PERFORM YAW RATE AND ACCELERATION SENSOR ZERO POINT CALIBRATION AND SYSTEM INFORMATION (WHETHER VGRS IS EQUIPPED) (When Using Techstream)
NOTICE:
  • While obtaining the zero points, keep the vehicle stationary and do not vibrate, tilt, move, or shake it (do not start the engine).
  • Be sure to perform this procedure on a level surface (with an inclination of less than 1%).
(a) Clear the zero point calibration and system information data.
(1) Turn the engine switch off.
(2) Check that the steering wheel is centered.
(3) Check that the shift lever is in P.
(4) Connect the Techstream to the DLC3.
(5) Turn the engine switch on (IG).
(6) Turn the Techstream on.
(7) Enter the following menus: Chassis / ABS/VSC/TRAC / Utility / Reset Memory.
(8) Select the skid control ECU (master cylinder solenoid) to clear the zero point calibration data using the Techstream.
(9) Turn the engine switch off.
(b) Perform zero point calibration of the yaw rate and acceleration sensor and store the system information.
(1) Turn the engine switch off.
(2) Check that the steering wheel is centered.
(3) Check that the shift lever is in P.
NOTICE:
  • DTCs C1210 (Zero Point Calibration of Yaw Rate Sensor Undone) and C1336 (Zero Point Calibration of Acceleration Sensor Undone) are stored if the shift lever is not in P.
  • If a DTC is output that indicates zero point calibration is incomplete, repeat the procedure starting at the step for clearing the zero point calibration data and system information.
(4) Connect the Techstream to the DLC3.
(5) Turn the engine switch on (IG).
(6) Turn the Techstream on.
(7) Enter the following menus: Chassis / ABS/VSC/TRAC / Utility / Test Mode.
(8) Keep the vehicle stationary on a level surface for 5 seconds or more.
(9) Check that the slip indicator light comes on for several seconds and then blinks in the test mode pattern (0.125 seconds on and 0.125 seconds off).
HINT:
  • If the slip indicator light does not blink, perform zero point calibration again.
  • The zero point calibration is performed only once after the system enters test mode.
  • Calibration cannot be performed again until the stored data is cleared.
(10) Turn the engine switch off and disconnect the Techstream.
(c) Check if DTC C120A (ECU Initial Setting Incomplete) is output.
HINT:
If DTC C120A is not output, calibration was performed successfully.
3. PERFORM YAW RATE AND ACCELERATION SENSOR ZERO POINT CALIBRATION AND SYSTEM INFORMATION (WHETHER VGRS IS EQUIPPED) (When Using SST Check Wire)
NOTICE:
  • While obtaining the zero points, keep the vehicle stationary and do not vibrate, tilt, move, or shake it (do not start the engine).
  • Be sure to perform this procedure on a level surface (with an inclination of less than 1%).
(a) Clear the zero point calibration and system information data.
(1) Turn the engine switch off.
(2) Check that the steering wheel is centered.
(3) Check that the shift lever is in P.
(4) Turn the engine switch on (IG).
(5) Using SST, connect and disconnect terminals 12 (TS) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3 4 times or more within 8 seconds.
(6) Check that the slip indicator light comes on.
(b) Perform zero point calibration of the yaw rate and acceleration sensor and store the system information.
(1) Turn the engine switch off.
(2) Check that the steering wheel is centered.
(3) Check that the shift lever is in P.
NOTICE:
  • DTCs 36 (Zero Point Calibration of Yaw Rate Sensor Undone) and 98 (Zero Point Calibration of Acceleration Sensor Undone) are stored if the shift lever is not in P.
  • If a DTC is output that indicates zero point calibration is incomplete, repeat the procedure starting at the step for clearing the zero point calibration data and system information.
(4) Using SST, connect terminals 12 (TS) and 4 (CG) of the DLC3.
(5) Turn the engine switch on (IG).
(6) Keep the vehicle stationary on a level surface for 5 seconds or more.
(7) Check that the slip indicator light comes on for several seconds and then blinks in the test mode pattern (0.125 seconds on and 0.125 seconds off).
HINT:
  • If the slip indicator light does not blink, perform zero point calibration again.
  • The zero point calibration is performed only once after the system enters test mode.
  • Calibration cannot be performed again until the stored data is cleared.
(8) Turn the engine switch off and disconnect SST from the DLC3.
(c) Check if DTC 13 (ECU Initial Setting Incomplete) is output.
HINT:
If DTC 13 is not output, calibration was performed successfully.
 
Last edited:
Thank you all for the responses. It's good to hear that it's not an unheard of problem and that there is a simple fix. I'll try the calibration steps this afternoon.
 
Alright, for the sake of completeness here's where I am. I may have a problem with my VSC system somewhere, from what I can tell. That or I can't analyze the results correctly, which is quite possible at this point.

Following the instructions that @linuxgod posted last page:

First section: (a) Clear the zero point calibration and system information data.

It shows no codes, no problems.
Reset memory - clears fine
Turn key off
(b) Perform zero point calibration of the yaw rate and acceleration sensor and store the system information.
Turn key on
Enter test mode. ABS light flashes. VSC light never comes on.
Instructions says:
  • If the slip indicator light does not blink, perform zero point calibration again.
Turn key off
Turn key on
Reset memory - shows "check VSC system".
No codes show up.
Turn key off
Turn key on
Enter test mode. ABS light flashes. VSC light never comes on.

Second part, trying with a wire to see if that makes a difference.

I'm using this diagram for the VSC3:

M-Fig-2-5-1.jpg


Pins 4 and 12, wire between them disconnecting 12 while 4 is static.

(a) Clear the zero point calibration and system information data.

4 is connected, turn key on
tap 12 four times in 8 seconds
ABS light starts flashing. VSC light is solid for about 5 seconds and then disappears.
turn key off
(b) Perform zero point calibration of the yaw rate and acceleration sensor and store the system information.
4 still connected
connect 12
turn key on
ABS light comes on solidly then flashes repeatedly. The VSC light never comes on.
turn key off.

Repeating that second part with the wire always gives consistent results. Repeating the first part with techstream, I can make "check VSC system" come up when I reset the memory, test mode, then reset memory again.. If I go into test mode and then reset memory again, it doesn't show up as "Check VSC system".

Do you think I'm good, and the statement that says "Check that the slip indicator light comes on for several seconds and then blinks in the test mode pattern" is referring to the ABS light and NOT the burnout light, which I have been calling the VSC light this entire time?
 
Right, but from those instructions:

"Turn the ignition to the on position, and then short out the pins, 4 times or more within an eight second period. If you're successful the ABS light, and the slip indicator light will flash simultaneously at a steady interval. "

That doesn't happen. The ABS light flashes, but the VSC light does NOT.

Same here:

"Short out the pins with your wire, leave the wire in there, turn ignition to on position. Be careful not to disturb the truck, must remain very still for two seconds during calibration. Observe the ABS light and the slip indicator light they will be flashing simultaneously at a steady rapid interval, faster than before. Congratulations you've just calibrated the VSC computer."

The VSC is solid for a few seconds and disappears. The ABS light will flash at the correct interval.

I'll give it another shot with a paperclip today. It sat overnight with the battery disconnected.
 
Don't know if it makes any difference or not, but the ZPC steps that @linuxgod posted are for 2013 (+?) model year Cruisers... Will they still apply to the 2008 @NDizzle is having issues with?
 
Had the plastics out of the back of my truck last week for a bunch of wiring upgrades, so I removed the third row seat belts. Wondering if anybody has found a good cargo hook or tie down that bolts into the empty holes in the D pillars.
 
Had the plastics out of the back of my truck last week for a bunch of wiring upgrades, so I removed the third row seat belts. Wondering if anybody has found a good cargo hook or tie down that bolts into the empty holes in the D pillars.

Do you mean like a loop or ring to hook TO?
 
Had the plastics out of the back of my truck last week for a bunch of wiring upgrades, so I removed the third row seat belts. Wondering if anybody has found a good cargo hook or tie down that bolts into the empty holes in the D pillars.
These will thread right in. I currently have them in the upper and lower holes where the 3rd row shoulder harnesses were bolted. They come with a nut and large fender washer that you won't need to use. I just used the lock washer and threaded them in. They are rock solid.

They are 7/16" 20 thread, and I promise they fit. And yes, there are standard bolts in your metric Land Cruiser.
 
I was really thinking of rings similar to the ones that are already in the floor, so they will fold flat against the pillar when not in use. I found these, will probably just go with them.

4 V-Ring Tie Down Anchors | 2" Diameter Steel Bolt-on D-Rings for Cargo on Trucks, Pickups, Trailers | Flush Mount TieDown Anchor, Replacement for D-Ring Tie-Down w/Plastic Pan Fitting B016YJY7L8 Amazon product ASIN B01CGXSNC0
Those eye bolts from Summit look nice, but I'm not looking forward to the dents they will leave on my noggin. Yeah, I knew about the odd thread pitch, I already have the bolts on hand. It must be some DOT mandated fastener, it's been that spec for at least 40 years.
 
Anyone with the TRD rock warriors successfully use the ARB ez-deflator? I just tried using the deflator for the first time but it seems like the RW ring seems to be in the way of the valve stem.
 
Anyone with the TRD rock warriors successfully use the ARB ez-deflator? I just tried using the deflator for the first time but it seems like the RW ring seems to be in the way of the valve stem.
My TPMS have rubber valve stems, so the deflator works no problem. But yes, those of you with OEM TPMS sensors will likely have issues.

I think I'd prefer to pick up an extension for the valve stem before I'd go grinding the rings...
 
My TPMS have rubber valve stems, so the deflator works no problem. But yes, those of you with OEM TPMS sensors will likely have issues.

I think I'd prefer to pick up an extension for the valve stem before I'd go grinding the rings...
That's an innovative solution. I like it!
 
Thanks for the input. I don't have much experience with tire deflation options, and getting ready to head out to LCDC. Any other options/products anyone with Rock Warriors can recommend? I thought about ordering the Staun deflators, but unsure if I'd run into the same problem with the RW ring (plus unlikely to arrive in time for the trip).
 
Thanks for the input. I don't have much experience with tire deflation options, and getting ready to head out to LCDC. Any other options/products anyone with Rock Warriors can recommend? I thought about ordering the Staun deflators, but unsure if I'd run into the same problem with the RW ring (plus unlikely to arrive in time for the trip).
Valve stem extensions are by far the simplest and readily available at most auto parts stores
 
Pulling into driveways or hitting a speed bump at low speed I'm hearing a loud pop coming from the front driver's side. I can feel something as well. Truck rides fine and alignment on the highway appears to be a-ok. I'm running the Medium OME lift with SPC upper control arms. Thanks!
 

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