Builds Spyduh's LX450 Build (Motor Rebuild + Wits End Turbo Kit) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter spyduh
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I've never seen this before, but it's ingenious and I hate that I've never thought of zip tying the timing chain down
- Thread starter
- #124
GRRRRR. Frustrated at this part time back to full time tcase conversion.
Was able to press out both spool and oem center bearing to swap over. Well apparently out of my random used bearings at home. I do not have the right size old bearing that's deep enough or a socket that will go all the way down. So I'll need to go to my buddies shop tomorrow to use his press and find something that will press it all the way down.
Additionally the damn Viscous Coupler has a snap ring that holds it on. Well my original doesn't have one any more and one didn't come in my used VC kit i bought. It probably wouldn't have worked anyway since there are 13 different sizes just for this damn VC. FSM says pick the right one so there no play or very little. There was no way for me to measure it with calipers or shims. So what did i do? Buy all 13 from Toyota to my local dealership. $40. Sigh. Could have been worse.
So now my tcase will sit apart till maybe next week.
F****
Was able to press out both spool and oem center bearing to swap over. Well apparently out of my random used bearings at home. I do not have the right size old bearing that's deep enough or a socket that will go all the way down. So I'll need to go to my buddies shop tomorrow to use his press and find something that will press it all the way down.
Additionally the damn Viscous Coupler has a snap ring that holds it on. Well my original doesn't have one any more and one didn't come in my used VC kit i bought. It probably wouldn't have worked anyway since there are 13 different sizes just for this damn VC. FSM says pick the right one so there no play or very little. There was no way for me to measure it with calipers or shims. So what did i do? Buy all 13 from Toyota to my local dealership. $40. Sigh. Could have been worse.
So now my tcase will sit apart till maybe next week.
F****
- Thread starter
- #126
For those that have factory elockers you should probably insulate your harness as its really close to the turbo and down pipe.
Here's a pic of it wrapped up as well as the small AC lines next to the firewall.
The elocker harness does not need to be wrapped that low like how mine is shown. I'm only doing that just now, but when the engine goes in I'll trim off what I don't need. If you look close enough i have my 2ga wire running from my second battery all the way to the back quarter panel where my inverter lives. I will use the trimmed heat sleeve to also protect as much as this wire fom the heat.
Here's a pic of it wrapped up as well as the small AC lines next to the firewall.
The elocker harness does not need to be wrapped that low like how mine is shown. I'm only doing that just now, but when the engine goes in I'll trim off what I don't need. If you look close enough i have my 2ga wire running from my second battery all the way to the back quarter panel where my inverter lives. I will use the trimmed heat sleeve to also protect as much as this wire fom the heat.
- Thread starter
- #127
Now that I stare at this pic more. I'm not sure I routed this factory wire in the right place.
I did a axle swap from a locked donor 80. I can't remember now that's its been so long that I pulled the axles how the original wire ran. Its easy enough to reroute since its so damn long. I think I will move it forward of the motor mount to get it away from Jpipe and Downpipe.
Hmm I'll need to account for flex too. After its running and driving again I'll go to my buddies shop to use his fork lift to flex the front to see if it will not rip the elocker wiring after the forward motor mount relocate.
I did a axle swap from a locked donor 80. I can't remember now that's its been so long that I pulled the axles how the original wire ran. Its easy enough to reroute since its so damn long. I think I will move it forward of the motor mount to get it away from Jpipe and Downpipe.
Hmm I'll need to account for flex too. After its running and driving again I'll go to my buddies shop to use his fork lift to flex the front to see if it will not rip the elocker wiring after the forward motor mount relocate.
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Awesome! About to do this same thing any night now. I am installing new seals on the trans output and t-case input as well. Do you have similar plans?
- Thread starter
- #129
My trans output actually looks good so I probably wont do it. Its easy enough to do in the truck if it ever leaks. Both halves are sealed independent units (atf and gear oil). But then again it's another while im there and its real easy on the floor right now. Damn it. I'm waiting for those stupid c-clips might as well order it.
For the tcase input seal, well that's already been done as well as everything inside it. This was a rebuilt by Marlin Crawler tcase that was converted to part time and low range. Its a long story but I picked it up already completed from someone that went a different direction.
Exactly! This is why my head gasket job is taking forEVER. I'm trying to avoid any extra maintenance issues popping up for a long time. Everything is easier with the motor and trans out of he truck.
- Thread starter
- #131
Yup.... way easier to do it now when you have full access. But half the things I'm doing is definitely not for everyone. I
It also depends how much you love your land cruiser and how long you want to keep it for. I do not ever plan to sell my 80. Didn't before and definitely not now after I literally rebuilt nearly the entire thing. This is pretty much on par of a new 200 series just way better offroad =).
I want to see a 80 Turbo vs 200 series drag race and how close they will be to each other. Obviously in level playing fields with the same amount of mods to each or bone stock. I think @NLXTACY should find someone with a bone stock 200 on 35s to a race =)
ppc
M Go Blue
The locker harness goes from the locker, along the axle to the control arm, down to where the control arm attaches to the body, doubles back onto the body before rising vertical to where the harness attaches to the connector below the cruise control.
ppc
M Go Blue
No pictures and got the flu today so I rather not crawl around on the cold floor today. May be some one can accommodate your request.
The route I described will be very apparent if you look at it. It eliminates/minimizes any concerns with flexing the harness because everything connects at the pivot points of the axle and body.
The route I described will be very apparent if you look at it. It eliminates/minimizes any concerns with flexing the harness because everything connects at the pivot points of the axle and body.
Thanks for the pic. That totally helps! I'm missing a few of those clips and the sway bar bracket.
one things missing though. I don't see a turbo =D
- Thread starter
- #138
You might get yours installed before me anyway. I'm taking FOREVER. lol
And it's not because of the turbo being hard to install or time consuming. It's my fault for doing a lot of the "while I'm in there" things. I'm keeping this forever and I want it to run problem free for the next 10-20 years. After looking back on how easy it was to install the turbo. It truly is bolt on! The only one thing you need to weld in the exhaust cat/dp. Relatively easy for any shop to do or if you happen to know how to weld and have your own equipment. It's also a good excuse to tell the wife you need a new tool =)
Besides the welding part, everything else a hobbyist can knock out in a weekend if you didn't dive into all the "while I'm in there" things and just kept it straight install turbo and drive.
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- Thread starter
- #139
What I worked on today:
Pressed bearing into the oem center bearing and test fit gears back into tcase. Still waiting on my $40 of c clips before I can button it up.
Thanks for the pic earlier @TYM4FUN. I was able to mostly route the elocker wiring to the factory location. Made a different turn to limit distance to the downpipe. I use the leftover sleeving and covered my 2ga battery wire that goes back.
Changed my rear heater hoses. Bought the 1/2 Gates Green Stripe from @NLXTACY. Its easier to reach the hoses when theres no trans, tcase or exhaust and cat in the way
One trick my mechanic buddy taught me is when you change any hoses. You use carb clean and spray the inside of the hose. Why?
1. It acts as lube so it slides in really easy.
2. It actually sort of melts and softens the rubber so when it dries it seals it to the tube almost like glue.
Pressed bearing into the oem center bearing and test fit gears back into tcase. Still waiting on my $40 of c clips before I can button it up.
Thanks for the pic earlier @TYM4FUN. I was able to mostly route the elocker wiring to the factory location. Made a different turn to limit distance to the downpipe. I use the leftover sleeving and covered my 2ga battery wire that goes back.
Changed my rear heater hoses. Bought the 1/2 Gates Green Stripe from @NLXTACY. Its easier to reach the hoses when theres no trans, tcase or exhaust and cat in the way
One trick my mechanic buddy taught me is when you change any hoses. You use carb clean and spray the inside of the hose. Why?
1. It acts as lube so it slides in really easy.
2. It actually sort of melts and softens the rubber so when it dries it seals it to the tube almost like glue.
I won't but I am waaaaay on the other side of the spectrum for install.
I am the run what you brung specimen. When my kit comes in I will install it and the transgo kit n smash the pedal.
Still original head gasket also. If something goes then I will fix it at that time.
What I worked on today:
Pressed bearing into the oem center bearing and test fit gears back into tcase. Still waiting on my $40 of c clips before I can button it up.
Thanks for the pic earlier @TYM4FUN. I was able to mostly route the elocker wiring to the factory location. Made a different turn to limit distance to the downpipe. I use the leftover sleeving and covered my 2ga battery wire that goes back.
Changed my rear heater hoses. Bought the 1/2 Gates Green Stripe from @NLXTACY. Its easier to reach the hoses when theres no trans, tcase or exhaust and cat in the way
One trick my mechanic buddy taught me is when you change any hoses. You use carb clean and spray the inside of the hose. Why?
1. It acts as lube so it slides in really easy.
2. It actually sort of melts and softens the rubber so when it dries it seals it to the tube almost like glue.
View attachment 2198109
View attachment 2198110
Welcomes.
Good tip on the hose install. I also have one of using hair spray. Very temporary lube then sticks in place. Helpful for installing motorcycle and bicycle grips too.
