Builds Spyduh's LX450 Build (Motor Rebuild + Wits End Turbo Kit) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter spyduh
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- #62
Dang... Not to many left in the states. Once its gone its either rebuild or you can still buy a new short overseas. I don't want to even guess shipping for something that heavy.
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- #63
Replaced the AC bearing with NSK 30BD5222.
30 X 52 X 22MM.
Upgrade with the newer toyota block drain fitting
Replace the oil level sensor gasket. If you have oil leaks. This is one place that it'll also leak from.
Part number 90430-27001.
When you take it out, handle it and put it back in, be !!!! extremely gentle !!!!. That bakelite (float) is stupid brittle. Don't ask me how I know.
you don't want to know how expensive that part is.
That gasket is supposed to be soft rubbery. Mine broke in 7 pieces when i tried to use the pick to get it off!
30 X 52 X 22MM.
Upgrade with the newer toyota block drain fitting
Replace the oil level sensor gasket. If you have oil leaks. This is one place that it'll also leak from.
Part number 90430-27001.
When you take it out, handle it and put it back in, be !!!! extremely gentle !!!!. That bakelite (float) is stupid brittle. Don't ask me how I know.
you don't want to know how expensive that part is.That gasket is supposed to be soft rubbery. Mine broke in 7 pieces when i tried to use the pick to get it off!
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Your todo list looks like mine, I feel your pain. 
No. That’s incorrect. Just because there are four left in the US does not mean supply will be gone, or the part discontinued after the remaining four have been purchased.
After the four are sold (or getting down to 1-2 blocks), they will be reordered from TMC and they will restock initially at the Japan warehouse first (NAPCC), then to other depots as requested based on min/max stocking levels.
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- #67
That's awesome! If I ever had to rebuild a block again I might just get a short block. It's just so much faster and less time consuming.
I wonder if they will ever discontinue the short block. Seems like the discontinued thread grows a little more every year.
That’s correct.
OEM short block is currently a D3 class code which means that it’s getting very long in the tooth.
But, as stated above, 4 still available in the US with another one inbound from Japan to NAPCC. So, plenty still available.
Hmm my local dealer has this for $3,723.00 plus tax. Might be worth snagging one this year and putting on a stand.
However my rig has 158k miles, so it would be a while before it would be used.
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- #71
Ive been thinking about doing this and buying a short. I have a 93 LC that drinks and leaks oil. 1qt every 100 miles no BS. I call it the rust prevention option. Lol. Its got about 255k on the odo but the Speedo doesn't work when I bought it. No telling actual mileage.
It'll be a whole lot faster than rebuilding the block again. Not cheaper but faster.
It'll be a whole lot faster than rebuilding the block again. Not cheaper but faster.
Betcha cost-wise, if your time is worth anything, the factory short block is well well worth it. I’ve got a whole spare engine sitting there and I’m still considering just picking up a short block and slapping a reworked head on it.
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- #73
I haven't added my time to the total parts list that keeps growing. But if I had to guess i spent 4 or 5 nights on just the block which includes painting.
Clean, paint, disassemble, deck, hone, clean, rings and and rod bearings, clean again and assemble.
The time consuming part is all the small stuff that I'm doing by rebuilding everything so its like new when it goes back in and cleaning all the oily mud off. Oil and grease soaked dirt sucks bad.
Still cheaper than buying a short. I enjoy wrenching just as much as I do wheeling. Just takes forever for me to finish projects
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- #74
More random work last night and today.
New OEM and Gates hoses for Plenum, TB and Charcoal can.
My head gasket kit had a coolant oring I couldn't figure out where it went. I remembered once I looked at the parts diagram..
Pulled the hood insulation. I've had hood vibrations on the freeway for some time now. The factory seam sealed gave out. Im going to try and repair the hood insulation and glue the fiber back together with 3M spray adhesive and maybe use foil tape too. If I can't repair it then I'll most likely buy a brand new OEM one. While i was in there I washed ans cleaned and degreased the under hood. I'll run seam sealer in the hood ribs tomorrow then reattach the insulation with my 12 brand new clips. Partsouq .69 each!
Partsouq finally shipped my much needed parts today. Mostly important thing that is preventing me from bolting the head on is the missing valve springs. Really close to having the engine back in. I'm taking out tcase and trans tomorrow for Transgo Shift kit and low range tcase gear install.
New OEM and Gates hoses for Plenum, TB and Charcoal can.
My head gasket kit had a coolant oring I couldn't figure out where it went. I remembered once I looked at the parts diagram..
Pulled the hood insulation. I've had hood vibrations on the freeway for some time now. The factory seam sealed gave out. Im going to try and repair the hood insulation and glue the fiber back together with 3M spray adhesive and maybe use foil tape too. If I can't repair it then I'll most likely buy a brand new OEM one. While i was in there I washed ans cleaned and degreased the under hood. I'll run seam sealer in the hood ribs tomorrow then reattach the insulation with my 12 brand new clips. Partsouq .69 each!
Partsouq finally shipped my much needed parts today. Mostly important thing that is preventing me from bolting the head on is the missing valve springs. Really close to having the engine back in. I'm taking out tcase and trans tomorrow for Transgo Shift kit and low range tcase gear install.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Interested to see what you think and how it holds up to the heat.
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- #78
I'm probably the only idiot that would pull apart a perfectly rebuilt T case with low range gears and part-time. I bought a fresh rebuilt tcase and didnt know if it had PT spool. It was rebuilt by a friends friend and never installed. He ultimately sold the truck before the project was finished and became parted out. I happened to buy this tcase. I verified it had low range by counting the number of rotations. High 1-1 and Low counted about 3.1-1.
The only reason why I took it apart was I wanted to make sure it actually had part-time spool in it. I tried using the power probe to lock and unlock the center diff multiple times and whatever I did both flanges still spun indicating that it was FT. It bothered me for a week. I finally gave in and decided to crack it open to verify. Yup it has PT spool. I'm pulling out a perfectly brand new Marlin PT spool to replace with a used OEM VC now. Why? Because I want Full Time. Everything I read is keeping me away from PT because of how it handles in the snow. I snow wheel and cant loose the ability to safely and predictably turn in the snow.
The only reason why I took it apart was I wanted to make sure it actually had part-time spool in it. I tried using the power probe to lock and unlock the center diff multiple times and whatever I did both flanges still spun indicating that it was FT. It bothered me for a week. I finally gave in and decided to crack it open to verify. Yup it has PT spool. I'm pulling out a perfectly brand new Marlin PT spool to replace with a used OEM VC now. Why? Because I want Full Time. Everything I read is keeping me away from PT because of how it handles in the snow. I snow wheel and cant loose the ability to safely and predictably turn in the snow.
Why not re-install it with the engine as one unit and call it done? No tranny jack required. (with sufficiently beefy hoist of course)
