Build Spyduh's LX450 Build (Motor Rebuild + Wits End Turbo Kit)
- Thread starter spyduh
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
So, how close are the pistons to ‘zero deck’ on the 1FZ ?
- Thread starter
- #43
No idea. I just did a very light deck on it last night. Need to clean up the block and pistons before anything goes back in. I only took off maybe a thousandth off the top. Very little. It was already flat but I wanted to clean it up a tiny bit.
This is a simple oem rebuild and I'm not planning to go with new light weight pistons or anything performance. I don't need a 1000 hp 1fz. I just want double the HP what I got now and a reliable offroad rig so I don't great stranded in the middle of nowhere. Not a show or go truck, just want reliability!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #44
All I did today on my 80 was cleaned my pistons.
Then went over to my buddies to help him work on his 1gen pickup rock crawler build. 1uz swap on 80 axles. Because its a 2wd frame we decided to weld frame reinforcement plates inside and outside since we are 4 linking his rig. bomb proof now.
Then went over to my buddies to help him work on his 1gen pickup rock crawler build. 1uz swap on 80 axles. Because its a 2wd frame we decided to weld frame reinforcement plates inside and outside since we are 4 linking his rig. bomb proof now.
Rivman1243
SILVER Star
What are the bolts through the frame for?
- Thread starter
- #48
Don't make my mistake and order the rod bearing set unless you plan to grind down your crank. I ordered OEM 1320466031 and thought this was a standard bearing set. I should have checked better because the only sets that Toyota sells are 0.25. I should have taken the block apart and looked at the FSM first because they list the specs to match up the crank and rods to have exact size. I ordered the OEM set before I tore the block apart because I wanted to have all parts on hand for quick reassembly. I know there have been a lot of good reviews on Clevite bearings with 0.001 clearance, but I like to stick with factory tolerances if my budget allows me too.
My crank are all 2's and the piston rods are all 2's. FSM says I need Mark 4 bearings. I just ordered 130416603104 (mark 4) bearings and they should hopefully come in soon.
Anyone looking to grind their crankshaft; I now have a brand new / open box set of OEM rod bearings 1320466031 (0.25) for sale.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #49
I've been thinking about putting in low range gears in my tcase since my tranny is coming out for the Transgo Shift kit. I know I want the lower gears in the 80. I know first hand benefits of lower range gears because my Rock Crawler has the ultimate crawler dual marlin cases. Makes wheeling and crawling easier to not bounce. less skinny peddle = better control = less chance for breakage something mechanically and exterior body panels.
The thing Im struggling with is if should also to upgrade at the same time and go part time 4wd spool since I'm already in there doing low range gears.
Pros: less wear on front end, 2wd = turbo burn outs (even when I know I shouldn't because on thinner 4.88 spider gears), wheel out 2wd if front birf/gear damage, slightly better mpg (not counting on this).
Cons: $$$$, need to go double snap ring birf (either machine oem long birf, find 91-92 short birf or go Chromo). If I go the machine route I will need to do 4 birfs (I have a trail set I keep in my drawer as well), carry a spare aisin manual hub $, loose ABS (I hate abs but its good when the wife drives my rig cause she cant handle manually pumping the break in an emergency), 2wd (less traction and I'm already use to how the 80 handles).
Can I deal with it yeah, but 4wd all time makes it pretty predictable to drive. I enjoy driving the 80 long distances because it's plush and easy to drive. My rock crawler I love driving it when it's a short drive, anything longer that 1.5 hours I dread driving it. The crawler has hydro steer and 5.29s it sucks steering 37s.
I'm really leaning on just getting low range gear for the 80 and leaving it 4wd. I'll not have the ability to do 2wd turbo burn outs but I think my pocket book will thank me not replacing tires and 4.88 rear diff gears when I blow them up repeatedly.
The thing Im struggling with is if should also to upgrade at the same time and go part time 4wd spool since I'm already in there doing low range gears.
Pros: less wear on front end, 2wd = turbo burn outs (even when I know I shouldn't because on thinner 4.88 spider gears), wheel out 2wd if front birf/gear damage, slightly better mpg (not counting on this).
Cons: $$$$, need to go double snap ring birf (either machine oem long birf, find 91-92 short birf or go Chromo). If I go the machine route I will need to do 4 birfs (I have a trail set I keep in my drawer as well), carry a spare aisin manual hub $, loose ABS (I hate abs but its good when the wife drives my rig cause she cant handle manually pumping the break in an emergency), 2wd (less traction and I'm already use to how the 80 handles).
Can I deal with it yeah, but 4wd all time makes it pretty predictable to drive. I enjoy driving the 80 long distances because it's plush and easy to drive. My rock crawler I love driving it when it's a short drive, anything longer that 1.5 hours I dread driving it. The crawler has hydro steer and 5.29s it sucks steering 37s.
I'm really leaning on just getting low range gear for the 80 and leaving it 4wd. I'll not have the ability to do 2wd turbo burn outs but I think my pocket book will thank me not replacing tires and 4.88 rear diff gears when I blow them up repeatedly.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #50
No work on it today except for ordering new rod bearings from the stealership. Took some pics of the exhaust cut and the weld on pipe that will vband to the larger downpipe.
Also took a pic of my cracked factory muffler just after the cats. Need to get a good used oem one or maybe go after market muffler.
Also took a pic of my cracked factory muffler just after the cats. Need to get a good used oem one or maybe go after market muffler.
- Thread starter
- #52
There's only two ways to get an Oiler bushing for a Landcruiser. One is to buy a complete short block from Toyota and that's about 3.5k. I believe they are discontinued. I think there less than 10 of them in the states from the person I read that bought one. Toyota never sold that bushing separate and there's no part number for it. The second way is to buy it from Wits End. This is not cheap, but it's a whole lot cheaper than buying a short block. I bought the install tool and the bushing. Unfortunately the install tool is not a removal tool =(. So I had to make my own removal tool. I essentially pulled the old bushing out of the block. I found some random washer as close to diameter of the new bushing. I hooked it up onto my drill and used sandpaper in my hand to turn it down to the exact size (go slow and measure a bunch of times). Then grab a size 32 mm Craftsman 12 point socket to put against the block. Find a long bolt as well as some random washers smaller than the one just turned down. (I used random Toyota hardware from my spare hardware bucket). Put the 32 mm socket against the block, long bolt through the socket, exact washer + more smaller washers for strength and then finally a nut. Tighten till it pops out of the block. Clean it up and put the new bearing using the the Wits End install tool. It is good as new now!
Edit: spoke with Joey at wits end and he said he just pounded the old one out and then the new one in. We're thinking there are variations of the block castings that prevented mine and some others from pounding it in. Oh well, still worked but just had to spend extra time to make a tool.
Edit: spoke with Joey at wits end and he said he just pounded the old one out and then the new one in. We're thinking there are variations of the block castings that prevented mine and some others from pounding it in. Oh well, still worked but just had to spend extra time to make a tool.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #53
More pics
Edit: spoke with @NLXTACY Joey at wits end and he said he just pounded the old one out and then the new one in. We're thinking there are variations of the block castings that prevented mine and some others from pounding it in. Oh well, still worked but just had to spend extra time to make a tool.
Edit: spoke with @NLXTACY Joey at wits end and he said he just pounded the old one out and then the new one in. We're thinking there are variations of the block castings that prevented mine and some others from pounding it in. Oh well, still worked but just had to spend extra time to make a tool.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #54
More pics 3
Edit: spoke with Joey at wits end and he said he just pounded the old one out and then the new one in. We're thinking there are variations of the block castings that prevented mine and some others from pounding it in. Oh well, still worked but just had to spend extra time to make a tool.
Edit: spoke with Joey at wits end and he said he just pounded the old one out and then the new one in. We're thinking there are variations of the block castings that prevented mine and some others from pounding it in. Oh well, still worked but just had to spend extra time to make a tool.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #55
Rebuilt power steering pump using Wits End @NLXTACY power steering rebuild kit. Took enough pics (30+) to make a very detailed how to guide. There's plenty of threads already but if someone wants one I can make a install guide.
- Thread starter
- #56
Tomorrow I plan on starting final assembly for the motor. I'm tired. Reallllly tired of ordering part at least once a day from either local dealer, partsouq, amayama and I hate to say it wits end. But its getting stupid expensive and I'm tired of waiting for parts to come in. I'm still missing some key parts but I hope to get them all by Monday. I'm missing a lot of wheeling trips because my 80 is down. My buddies and I go one a month. I have a rock crawler to go wheeling still but I feel guilty for wasting a weekend having fun when there's still so much more work to do on the 80. I want to get this buttoned up before Jan and I'm having a hard time at this point making that date. I'm shooting for mid Feb at this point.
Heres what I have left to do
1. Assemble motor
2. Pull tranny, install transgo shift kit and reinstall
3. Bolt on my fresh marlin rebuilt low range tcase (its supposed to have PT but both flanges still spin even after I manually power probed the center lock 4. times). Need to figure out another time.
5. Bolt in motor in bay and bolt tranny and tc
6. Install Aisin hubs and test out Wits End 8mm spacers. If it dont work, I'll need to cut a second groove for the snap rings.
7. Remove slider where exhaust is.
8. Remove muffler (its cracked) I have a good used one to install but the factory flange was cut off because the wrecking yard cut it off to recycle the cats. So I'll need to cut mine off, flare the pipe and reweld to the good use muffler.
9. Install Wits End Turbo housing + Down pipe and blankets
10. Clamp short down pipe with v band
11. Install good used muffler with my cats. Measure distance I need to trim the short down pipe and cut some off. Grind some of the Cerakote off then weld to CAT then change out all ex gaskets.
12. Reinstall slider
13. Reinstall every thing for the engine
14. Reinstall condenser and rad stuff
15. Reinstall lights and grill
16. Reinstall dual batt and wiring
17. Fix my s***ty fuse system with the new SPro system bought. New wiring galore!
18. Reinstall bumper and winch and wiring
19. Figure out what wind shield washer bottle fits
20. Install Delta Vehicle System Shifter Console + Center Console
21. Install PLX module and TRD (original) boost gauge into Delta gauge slots and run wiring.
22. Fill and triple check allllllll fluids. Use high Zinc oil for break in.
23. Pull coil wire and crank to build oil pressure. Pull turbo oil feed and crank to make sure oil is primed. Reattach to turbo to prime.
24. Reattach coil wire and cross your fingers
25. @100 mile brake in engine oil change
26. @500 mile brake in engine, tranny, tcase and power steering fluid change.
27. @ 1k or 3k engine oil change. Depends how up tight I want to be. Not sure at this point if I'm going with my usual Shell Rotella 15w40 or if I'll wait till 7k to 10k miles.
28. 2wd burn out since @NLXTACY hasnt posted any videos yet.
Heres what I have left to do
1. Assemble motor
2. Pull tranny, install transgo shift kit and reinstall
3. Bolt on my fresh marlin rebuilt low range tcase (its supposed to have PT but both flanges still spin even after I manually power probed the center lock 4. times). Need to figure out another time.
5. Bolt in motor in bay and bolt tranny and tc
6. Install Aisin hubs and test out Wits End 8mm spacers. If it dont work, I'll need to cut a second groove for the snap rings.
7. Remove slider where exhaust is.
8. Remove muffler (its cracked) I have a good used one to install but the factory flange was cut off because the wrecking yard cut it off to recycle the cats. So I'll need to cut mine off, flare the pipe and reweld to the good use muffler.
9. Install Wits End Turbo housing + Down pipe and blankets
10. Clamp short down pipe with v band
11. Install good used muffler with my cats. Measure distance I need to trim the short down pipe and cut some off. Grind some of the Cerakote off then weld to CAT then change out all ex gaskets.
12. Reinstall slider
13. Reinstall every thing for the engine
14. Reinstall condenser and rad stuff
15. Reinstall lights and grill
16. Reinstall dual batt and wiring
17. Fix my s***ty fuse system with the new SPro system bought. New wiring galore!
18. Reinstall bumper and winch and wiring
19. Figure out what wind shield washer bottle fits
20. Install Delta Vehicle System Shifter Console + Center Console
21. Install PLX module and TRD (original) boost gauge into Delta gauge slots and run wiring.
22. Fill and triple check allllllll fluids. Use high Zinc oil for break in.
23. Pull coil wire and crank to build oil pressure. Pull turbo oil feed and crank to make sure oil is primed. Reattach to turbo to prime.
24. Reattach coil wire and cross your fingers
25. @100 mile brake in engine oil change
26. @500 mile brake in engine, tranny, tcase and power steering fluid change.
27. @ 1k or 3k engine oil change. Depends how up tight I want to be. Not sure at this point if I'm going with my usual Shell Rotella 15w40 or if I'll wait till 7k to 10k miles.
28. 2wd burn out since @NLXTACY hasnt posted any videos yet.
Last edited:
Having just bought a new 1FZ Toyota short block at the dealer this past Saturday, I can confirm there are now only FOUR left.
- Thread starter
- #60
Lots of work tonight. Short block is fully assembled now. Didn't take too many pics tonight. Concentrated on knocking it out. I don't know how youtuber's getting anything done if they have to work the camera, perform the task and explain it to the audience. I barely can take pics every step of the way. There was 2 hour span I didn't even touch my phone to take pics.
