Spring Green October 1969 production 1970 FJ40 rehab (1 Viewer)

simps80

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
265
Location
Colorado
 
 
I picked up a October 1969 production/ 1970 US market FJ40
it has a later 1F - Serial F 372729. Looks to be around a september of 1971 1f....

I noticed some PO wiring I didn't like.

Couple questions based on the pictures:
1. is this what the right ignition switch would look llike? would have thought the back of it would be covered with some type of rubber boot- or some way to insulate the connections on the back, would imagine it potentially was at some point. The switch says hecho in mexico on it - so just looking for an actual picture of the 'correct' ignition switch. Obviously the wiring for this and the light switch next to it, I will have to tear apart back into the harness a bit and patch with proper wires. Will order from @Coolerman website once I get the parts list together. <edit> ok its definitely the 'right' ignition switch up to 7/70 - just don't love the terminations not being covered on the back of the switch...wondering if I can 'upgrade' to the later style with a connector on the back - would think that is a yes (?)


2. does anyone have a good picture of what the harness - starter - coil wiring should look like?
this is a hodge podge of things that were done potentially to marry this 1971 1f to this 1970 chassis I would guess...I have never seen this junction block thing on the coil like this. But then I've never owned a 1970 with a 1971 engine -- only older and newer fj40s/fj45

3. lastly - not really a question but more of a judgment call at this point I'm interested in hearing opinions on .... the rear chassis harness exists of all the old wires not terminated to anything, and brand spanking new large gauge white wires ran from the right front fender all the way to the back. most of the original wiring is there, just not terminated. Having worked a long time to make combination brakes/turns/hazards and the like work in the past, I can certainly see why this PO chose to run all new wires. Just wish he would have picked soemthing other than a roll of white wire....
I am thinking of two options:
1. strip this whole harness out, put it on a big board and redo it - what I found under the dash for the light switch and the ignition switch isn't exactly 'confidence inspiring'
2. fix what I see to be wrong including 1 and 2 above, and the rear chassis harness.
3. wait for Coolerman to get back in the full replacement harness business - :)


I've never taken the harness out of an fj40 - but I think it might be warranted here.

The searches I've done haven't yielded much in terms of the two questions above.
I wouldn't mind replacing the IG switch with one that has the pigtail to a 4-prong plug, or other suggestions, options the group may have.

IMG_0844.jpg
IMG_0851.jpg
 
Last edited:

Living in the Past

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 21, 2005
Messages
19,351
 
 
 
switch says hecho in mexico on it <edit> ok its definitely the 'right' ignition switch up to 7/70
That is not the OEM ignition switch. I have a 10/69 US import FJ40. It has the same ignition switch as couple other early FJ40s I have. I have had another FJ25 with an aftermarket switch like the one you have.
 

simps80

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
265
Location
Colorado
 
 
yea not oem but what I guess I am wondering is...
Does the oem one have something that covers the back side where the terminals are...
The later ones have plugs
The earlier ones look to have wire terminals like this junky Hecho in Mexico version

or alternatively I suppose I could retrofit a newer one with the I think 4 conductor plug connection on the back...

Yes?
 

Living in the Past

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 21, 2005
Messages
19,351
 
 
 
No there is no type of weatherproof covering. That has never been a issue in my 68 that I've owned since 7/74. The ignition switch had been replaced when I bought it. Another OEM was used. Old ignition switch was in the glovebox. To get the key to match the door I switched the actual electric switch from the replacement on to the old ignition switch. Never had another problem. There are plenty of exposed terminals on the back side of the dash besides the ignition switch. If your working on anything on the dash just disconnect the battery.
 

simps80

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
265
Location
Colorado
 
 
I think I'm going to buy this cole-hersee switch that $OR sells.
their price is $48 and comes with the terminals/rear connector,

The nearest I can tell the one they sell is a 956xxx series switch, but can't find the right p/n with the rear connector like I want.
SOR is selling together, so I think I'm going to go that route. I could go with later style but isn't quite right for the barrel.
I know i'm overcomplicating this - that's what I do with these things.

this switch plus some OEM style wire from Mark will fix this up, and the light switch connector next to it will be next.
Then I've ordered two of the 82870-30020 blocks for the front fenders, i'll get 30 feet of the wire colors for the rear and a bunch of terminals and start with that.


But I'm going to tear into this electrical one thing and a time - return it to as close as stock as possible - and avoid trouble where I can.

After that I'll get a fusible link, put that in and redo this weird set-up with the coil, starter, harness situation.

Anyone know if that junction block on the coil is some weird stock situation I've never seen - if not I'll eliminate it and use the connectors that have been "repurposed" above.


Thanks for all the input

ignitionswitch.jpg
 

ToyotaMatt

Factory Focus-Point Mind-Set Approach
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Aug 12, 2007
Messages
12,665
Location
EAST COAST
 
 
I picked up a October 1969 production/ 1970 US market FJ40
it has a later 1F - Serial F 372729. Looks to be around a september of 1971 1f....

I noticed some PO wiring I didn't like.

Couple questions based on the pictures:
1. is this what the right ignition switch would look llike? would have thought the back of it would be covered with some type of rubber boot- or some way to insulate the connections on the back, would imagine it potentially was at some point. The switch says hecho in mexico on it - so just looking for an actual picture of the 'correct' ignition switch. Obviously the wiring for this and the light switch next to it, I will have to tear apart back into the harness a bit and patch with proper wires. Will order from @Coolerman website once I get the parts list together. <edit> ok its definitely the 'right' ignition switch up to 7/70 - just don't love the terminations not being covered on the back of the switch...wondering if I can 'upgrade' to the later style with a connector on the back - would think that is a yes (?)


2. does anyone have a good picture of what the harness - starter - coil wiring should look like?
this is a hodge podge of things that were done potentially to marry this 1971 1f to this 1970 chassis I would guess...I have never seen this junction block thing on the coil like this. But then I've never owned a 1970 with a 1971 engine -- only older and newer fj40s/fj45

3. lastly - not really a question but more of a judgment call at this point I'm interested in hearing opinions on .... the rear chassis harness exists of all the old wires not terminated to anything, and brand spanking new large gauge white wires ran from the right front fender all the way to the back. most of the original wiring is there, just not terminated. Having worked a long time to make combination brakes/turns/hazards and the like work in the past, I can certainly see why this PO chose to run all new wires. Just wish he would have picked soemthing other than a roll of white wire....
I am thinking of two options:
1. strip this whole harness out, put it on a big board and redo it - what I found under the dash for the light switch and the ignition switch isn't exactly 'confidence inspiring'
2. fix what I see to be wrong including 1 and 2 above, and the rear chassis harness.
3. wait for Coolerman to get back in the full replacement harness business - :)


I've never taken the harness out of an fj40 - but I think it might be warranted here.

The searches I've done haven't yielded much in terms of the two questions above.
I wouldn't mind replacing the IG switch with one that has the pigtail to a 4-prong plug, or other suggestions, options the group may have.

View attachment 2477605View attachment 2477607

hello , matt here .

maybe i can help shed light and some TEq TECH here , in my area of specialty .... 🤔

- the original EARLY ROTARY Ignition switches were phased out long ago ,. they have open terminal lugs and well can start under-dash fires lets just say .

- so this is your ONLY oem period correct option , i have added a safe and 100% oem parts i Hand make each one in-house at the
Skunk-Works Service Spec. Pigtail Connector Plug and Oem correct tracer stripe wires Color codes , to refer to your EWD and or FSM with and for ........

- i have bumped up my wire gauge size 1 - 2 steps depending on the early year harness in question ?
to 12 gauge too


- the cole switch in the above SOR pic is well , you get what you pay for CHINA type product ........

- if you dont think so now , or believe me for some reason here ? you will find out later why i say this and i don';t care what anyone else thinks to be both transparent and honest simply , Cheeze is Cheeze , on the non oem Ignition switch topic , this particular substitute option is simply so passee' :rolleyes:

- save your resources and time for a JAPAN JDM made product that will outlast the tests of age and time .........




1603858549775.png




1603858737284.png
 

ToyotaMatt

Factory Focus-Point Mind-Set Approach
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Aug 12, 2007
Messages
12,665
Location
EAST COAST
 
 
i work with @Coolerman often and we share much tech too , he is a SOLID MUD Member and MUD buddy of mine as well

good choice starting with him on some topics , I would have him simply make you a Brand new Tail Harness section and never look back

un plug yours all rigged up with the uncapped wires and its now spare parts or trash

this may seam a bit harsh , but 50+ year old mods and old technology wire it self is bad mojo and a waist of time to screw with unless your last resort or other good or better reason the a MODERN Safe Materials up-size gauge too rear complete sub harness made
by nothing less then the Global Master of Vintage Toyota Wire Harness Reproductions .........:)


here is your head lamp switch Service spec. connectors , i hand make each one the Traditional Toyota Way , with pride and correct color code wire , also Up-sized at least 2 sizes over OEM original piano wire monkey business you see in your nice tech pics ......


DSCN4541.JPG
DSCN4542.JPG





Below Is A NOS Ballast Ignition Coil assy , its the period correct one for your truck , Please PM me if you have any further questions on it in particular ......


i only have 2 left , and its a global DISC. / NLA part number with NO substitutions also , stay away from any pep boyz or advance auto napa ghetto coils , same mind set as a cole herse ign switch applies here ..fyi


DSCN4538.JPG
DSCN4540.JPG
 

ToyotaMatt

Factory Focus-Point Mind-Set Approach
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Aug 12, 2007
Messages
12,665
Location
EAST COAST
 
 
I picked up a October 1969 production/ 1970 US market FJ40
it has a later 1F - Serial F 372729. Looks to be around a september of 1971 1f....

I noticed some PO wiring I didn't like.

Couple questions based on the pictures:
1. is this what the right ignition switch would look llike? would have thought the back of it would be covered with some type of rubber boot- or some way to insulate the connections on the back, would imagine it potentially was at some point. The switch says hecho in mexico on it - so just looking for an actual picture of the 'correct' ignition switch. Obviously the wiring for this and the light switch next to it, I will have to tear apart back into the harness a bit and patch with proper wires. Will order from @Coolerman website once I get the parts list together. <edit> ok its definitely the 'right' ignition switch up to 7/70 - just don't love the terminations not being covered on the back of the switch...wondering if I can 'upgrade' to the later style with a connector on the back - would think that is a yes (?)


2. does anyone have a good picture of what the harness - starter - coil wiring should look like?
this is a hodge podge of things that were done potentially to marry this 1971 1f to this 1970 chassis I would guess...I have never seen this junction block thing on the coil like this. But then I've never owned a 1970 with a 1971 engine -- only older and newer fj40s/fj45

3. lastly - not really a question but more of a judgment call at this point I'm interested in hearing opinions on .... the rear chassis harness exists of all the old wires not terminated to anything, and brand spanking new large gauge white wires ran from the right front fender all the way to the back. most of the original wiring is there, just not terminated. Having worked a long time to make combination brakes/turns/hazards and the like work in the past, I can certainly see why this PO chose to run all new wires. Just wish he would have picked soemthing other than a roll of white wire....
I am thinking of two options:
1. strip this whole harness out, put it on a big board and redo it - what I found under the dash for the light switch and the ignition switch isn't exactly 'confidence inspiring'
2. fix what I see to be wrong including 1 and 2 above, and the rear chassis harness.
3. wait for Coolerman to get back in the full replacement harness business - :)


I've never taken the harness out of an fj40 - but I think it might be warranted here.

The searches I've done haven't yielded much in terms of the two questions above.
I wouldn't mind replacing the IG switch with one that has the pigtail to a 4-prong plug, or other suggestions, options the group may have.

View attachment 2477605View attachment 2477607
No there is no type of weatherproof covering. That has never been a issue in my 68 that I've owned since 7/74. The ignition switch had been replaced when I bought it. Another OEM was used. Old ignition switch was in the glovebox. To get the key to match the door I switched the actual electric switch from the replacement on to the old ignition switch. Never had another problem. There are plenty of exposed terminals on the back side of the dash besides the ignition switch. If your working on anything on the dash just disconnect the battery.

- there is a weatherproof type covering Now john ........ 😇


on your desired Ignition Switch Boot topic , its funny and both odd how thing once planned out to precision can be put on a many years back burner ?

i had these made up for my planned for and now Real in-dash Ignition switch w/ service spec pigtail Repair and Restore kit you see above ,

but i never applied them in the kit , for a reason long forgot ?

maybe i simply forgot i had them at the time 🤣


but on a very real and serious note ;

here is a Real and serious OEM Inspired In dash Ign. switch Boot i engineered and had made a few dozen

its fits snug and is a top shelf EPDM chemical resistant rubber formula .....fyi


is this what you had envisioned or thought when you comment on the boot topic in your fist post ?


DSCN4543.JPG
DSCN4545.JPG
DSCN4546.JPG
 

FJ40Jim

The Cruiser Whisperer
Joined
Sep 26, 2003
Messages
10,857
Location
Lancaster, Ohio, USA
 
 
 
The coil on the OP's engine has been upgraded to the 74-78 coil w/ ballast resistor on it, and has the updated starter with ballast bypass from the solenoid.
Good stuff.
 

Dizzy

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 5, 2018
Messages
1,791
Location
Santa Fe, New Mexico
I'm entertaining the idea that possibly the original rear harness was presumed bad, but really it could have been bad/intermittent grounds?

I believe that every lamp used for traffic, and the horn relay, needs an additional dedicated grounding harness. The topic of bad grounds probably surfaces on Mud once or twice a month, and I think that we underestimate how much trouble you can be in when they suddenly fail.
 

simps80

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
265
Location
Colorado
 
 
Yep @ToyotaMatt that boot and switch was what I wanted wish I woulda seen this before I bought the other one.

do you sell that boot separate?
Anyway you have PM
 

ToyotaMatt

Factory Focus-Point Mind-Set Approach
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Aug 12, 2007
Messages
12,665
Location
EAST COAST
 
 
Yep @ToyotaMatt that boot and switch was what I wanted wish I woulda seen this before I bought the other one.

do you sell that boot separate?
Anyway you have PM

i replied to the PM

i will return there now

i will help you get squared away on the proper OEM period correct parts , the boot , ans the SAFE way and approach forward
 

simps80

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
265
Location
Colorado
 
 
Mark @Coolerman sent me a care package

91436032-6D2A-48B3-A7D0-DFC354ECEE2C.jpeg


So I got to work with the first phase...
Fixing the hack job on the ignition and headlight switch
Turned out good.


open barrel crimp terminals then soldered the crimps as well.

spliced the wires staggered and shrink tubed then wrapped with harness tape with one loop of regular electrical tape at each end.

did continuity tests through switch to BAT, IGN, ST and fuse block.
All good.

7E0ADD13-327D-4B03-9C81-A809F34A60E8.jpeg

2455FD82-07A0-4F9B-8AF7-3499E18C6894.jpeg
BCFFCA0A-0981-4FFD-9C8C-28191E3220FE.jpeg
D1461926-A86F-47CB-8AA9-CB4A2E6D49EC.jpeg
 
Last edited:

simps80

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
265
Location
Colorado
 
 
Moving into the engine bay, started on the terminal block.

noticed marker light wire was almost broke right at the socket.

took the light apart, soldered a new GY wire to the wafer, crimped and soldered new insulated bullet.
Then built the jumper that connects to junction block.

started cleaning up all the other connections, few more wires to redo.
FCE46847-F6D0-46D1-9B2A-2BC8F93DDE1F.jpeg
A3BECF74-8AFF-4211-B72A-D4492B3B3BF3.jpeg
41EE5749-E45F-46C5-A212-0CCADAAC971F.jpeg
 

Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Users: 0, Guests: 1)

Top Bottom