Split rims, bias ply tires, tubes, and tube liners (2 Viewers)

[JohnnyC]

When inflating I usually wrap a chain around it...see pic and link

the chain I always have in the truck

this is a link...click it>>> split rim tube replacement thread

 

[cuteo100]

I'm curious as to what you gents are using to inflate air back into the fixed tires in the bush?

 

[george_tlc]

I'm curious as to what you gents are using to inflate air back into the fixed tires in the bush?

On board air compressor, i.e. same thing you use to pump up tyres to street pressure once you get back onto the bitumen...

cheers,
george.

 

[JohnnyC]

I'm curious as to what you gents are using to inflate air back into the fixed tires in the bush?

a cheapo 12v air compressor...locks on the valve....takes a bit of time....but...it works

 

[se2000]

These aren't "truck" split rims, the rim "snaps" into place and will not "pop" off when being inflated. I put some air into the tube, then use a rubber mallet to get the bead to seat and then continue inflating. If I'm particularly scared that day I can just slip the whole wheel (split rim down) under the 4wd before inflating...

cheers,
george.

I.ve been around long enough that I remember that old 3/4 ton trucks all had split rims. 15". I've seen them fly off. And someone getting hurt. The chain is a good idea but if you are holding the hose on the valve, you could lose it.

 

[george_tlc]

I.ve been around long enough that I remember that old 3/4 ton trucks all had split rims. 15". I've seen them fly off. And someone getting hurt. The chain is a good idea but if you are holding the hose on the valve, you could lose it.

Never seen or heard of one coming off on toyo or nissan 4wds with 16" factory split rims. I would NEVER hold the hose on the valve by hand when re-seating the bead. I use soapy water to easy the bead seating when in the bush. Soapy water along the bead and then put some psi in (maybe 10) and rubber mallet to assist the bead to seat. With the soapy water it seats pretty quickly and easy at low psi. The key is taking you time to do it right. Done properly I can't even begin to imagine how the ring could ever pop off during the re-seating process.

cheers,
george.

 

[JohnnyC]

just to clarify about the toyota rims...these are NOT like the early USA truck split rims or commercial truck split rims.

pulled from the link earlyer...

..............And perhaps I can make it even more useful by posting explanation photos to dispel the idea that these Toyota splitrims (in unmolested non-rustcompromised condition) can ever be lethal (or even cause injury) except to the severely intellectually disadvantaged (who may do any sort of unpredictable thing).

The steel-reinforced bead of the tyre actually prevents the "ring" from being able to expand at all. So there's no way in hell (under anything but EXCEPTIONALLY STUPID circumstances) that it can open up to the point where it lets go of the "ridge" at the top of the main part of the wheel.

Photos:

PS.

Anyone who starts inflating the tube (without a cage/chain restraint) with any of the tyre bead below the "ring" fits my description of "severely intellectually disadvantaged"

(I believe I don't need to use a cage/chain for protection because I never do that.)
.................

also:

....just to expand a bit further...here are differences with toyota rims over other style of split rims...

1st pic is Toyota Semidrop Center Rim with removable flange on the ring this is what makes it much safer than most other split rims...full bead applys pressure as it has a full flange base and deep lock



2nd pic is Flat Rim *unsafe style*



3rd pic is the Semidrop Center Rims (left one no flange base *unsafe style* and removable full base flange on right (semi-safe rim )



4th pic advanced flat rim *unsafe style*



5th pic is grader rim *unsafe style*



6th pic is earthmover rim *unsafe style*

 

[george_tlc]

JohnnyC - good pictures to make it very clear that the toyo/nissan style split rim is a different animal that what most folk "imagine"... As the pictures in your post show, once you get the tyre bead onto the ring, which is very easy and only takes a handful of psi, and the ring is properly behind the rim's ridge/flange, there is just no possible way that it can fly off.

I consider the split rims on my patrol (actually running toyo split rims now) to be very safe and I've repaired many a flat tyre. First repair would have been back in the very early 80's.

Tyre places in oz are very familiar with this style of split rim and have no qualms working with them. It doesn't raise a single comment or eyebrow, they are just too common over there.

Anyhow, anything can be dangerous when combined with ignorance and inexperience.

cheers,
george.

 

[Kajun]

Next Step

I'd like to start a thread which lists where people got their splits, tubes, tube liners, bias ply tires and any modifications to run the splits (if needed). Also please post resources where you know you can get any of the above.

DMR - Not sure if the the direction of this thread is what you had in mind, but FWIW I am quite pleased with the vast amount if technical information (and links) that GeorgeTLC and JohnnyC have combined into this one thread. Thank you gentlemen.

Sources for flaps and inner tubes are helpful as well. This is a question for everyone running the spits. What tube do you prefer/recommend? The TR150 or the tube with the metal valve with 90 degree bend? I haven's scoured the internets yet so I have not run across the tube number for the metal with the 90 degree in it.

Also assuming all safety, common sense and inflation procedures have been followed on a brand new (un balanced) wheel/tire build, the next step is to have the entire assembly balanced. Correct?

Where are the balancing weights mounted? I presume that the weights would have to be installed on the inboard side of the wheel so that future ring removal and re-install do not affect the balance. OR are other methods used? i.e. balancing beads in the inner tube? sounds like a bit of a pain especially if a tube got a split in it. Recipe for balancing beads all over the place during repair.

I realize this is a lot of questions, but I am technically minded and trying to educate myself as much as possible before making any huge decisions. I want to know exactly what I am doing once the decision is made too.

 

[george_tlc]

....
Also assuming all safety, common sense and inflation procedures have been followed on a brand new (un balanced) wheel/tire build, the next step is to have the entire assembly balanced. Correct?

Where are the balancing weights mounted? I presume that the weights would have to be installed on the inboard side of the wheel so that future ring removal and re-install do not affect the balance. OR are other methods used? i.e. balancing beads in the inner tube? sounds like a bit of a pain especially if a tube got a split in it. Recipe for balancing beads all over the place during repair.

I realize this is a lot of questions, but I am technically minded and trying to educate myself as much as possible before making any huge decisions. I want to know exactly what I am doing once the decision is made too.

Below is a picture of a mounted/balanced split rim. The weights need to be where they do the job (inside or outside).

One other installation procedure. The split of the ring should be mounted 180 deg (opposite) of the tube valve. So, that guarantees the weights on the outside will be in the same place on the assembled wheel. The other obvious (or not so obvious) things is to MARK the tyre BEFORE you take it off. That way, tyre, rim, weights, tube are reassembled in the same relative position after the repair - so re-balanced is nominally a non-issue, other that the patches etc that you've added.

cheers,
george.

 

[DrivingMissRosey]

After not getting but 20k miles on a set of old Goodyear workhorse M&s that I bought for 350 bucks, I've decided to break down, stop looking on C-List, and buy never-been-used, new tires. (I couldn't find a good used replacement) I've put a deposit down on a set of these Yokohama Y735B. Ill mount them myself and won't have to balance 'em because I'm using balancing beads. I was able to get them at a local shop so I didn't have to pay shipping. They are kind of spendy, 225 each. What do people think? And before anyone asks, yes they are 7.50 R16. I'll post pics once I get them mounted and take them on the trail.

I've seen both images online for Y735Bs so I'm not quite sure what I'm getting yet. I think the second one is correct as that's off Yokohamas website.

 

[DrivingMissRosey]

I picked up the tires today and will get them mounted shortly. Good news, they are the more aggressive pic in the previous post. Stay tuned for pics....

 

[Joe_E]

Whoa, how did i miss this thread?..

Been researching and trying to nail down tires for the factory Toyota splits i want to run. Looked at different bias tires and in talking with my local tire guy was kind of talked out of it.

Here's what i went with finally and it turns out to be a nice combination although i haven't roaded them yet.

Tires-
BFG KM2 255/85R16 radials, they fit perfect on the splits.

Tube-

G.T Radial tire tube 750R16 w/ TR75A valve.
The TR75A valve is the key here as the length on it comes to the end of the rim. I had a couple 177 valve tubes and the end would stick out almost an inch past the rim.

Oh, and remove the metal plate and nut around the valve stem before mounting in tire. Ask me how i know. I mounted, filled then proceed to dismount three tires because i left the metal plate on the tube. I got real good at it.

The flaps were Lassa made in Turkey. lol

A couple other tips i've learned.
Use tire talc powder liberally on the inside of the tire, on the tube, and on the flap. It allows things to slide around in there without binding.

Also use tire soap grease on the beads. It will allow you to dismount the tires light years easier the second time.

Another must have for splits is the use of a lock on air chuck when filling. I also use a remote trigger gauge with hose extension.

I use the vinyl coated cables for locking up bicycles and what not to wrap around in case of ring failure.

I state these tips not as a know it all but as having 25 plus years in the trucking and heavy equipment field. I have had my fair share of changing big 24" truck tires and was taught early on to always prevent the inevitable . Whether it be failure to prep a tire for the next time you have to break it down and change it, or preventing a deadly accident when filling it.

Can't wait to hear them hum

 

[Joe_E]

Lol
Almost forgot.
A mudder recomended these bars for the splits a while back.
Absolutely invaluable tools. They fit perfect in the hole and can break a split down by them selves.

 

[DrivingMissRosey]

These are Yokohama 735Bs in 7.50 R16. I use balancing beads.

Second pic is with all four tires on. Took them for a 10 mile test drive on my twisting mountain roads. That have a higher pitched whine than my old bias ply m/a Goodyear workhorse. These are radials so they drive smoother than the bias ply. Tracking down the road is a little odd. They catch most lines in the road. I think if I had a rear sway bar it would stay straighter. The traction is pretty good on sand. In the sticky stuff (mud) they don't clear out as well as I'd like but since they are smoother on the road I don't mind. I'll give an update in a few thousand miles.

 

[DrivingMissRosey]

So it's been a few thousand miles with the y735b tires by Yokohama. They are wearing nice and slowly. Two thumbs up on sand, snow, ice, and pavement. In mud they are only passable as the tires do not eject the mud as well as I hoped. As an all-rounder, these tires are great.

 

[DrivingMissRosey]

Lol
Almost forgot.
A mudder recomended these bars for the splits a while back.
Absolutely invaluable tools. They fit perfect in the hole and can break a split down by them selves.

Can they also break the bead?

 

[george_tlc]

The kentools won't break the bead, you need a bead breaker to do that. I use tyrepliers (made in oz) and they work a treat and easy to use. There are various other options - including adapters for a high lift etc.

cheers,
george.

 

[Joe_E]

The kentools won't break the bead, you need a bead breaker to do that. I use tyrepliers (made in oz) and they work a treat and easy to use. There are various other options - including adapters for a high lift etc.

cheers,
george.

Thanks George for that Tyrepliers tip!
I just ordered one from Extreme Outback in Cali. Www.extremeoutback.com

I always have trouble breaking the beads with hammers. Not to mention denting and chipping paint!
Not any more!

 

[george_tlc]

Thanks George for that Tyrepliers tip!
I just ordered one from Extreme Outback in Cali. Www.extremeoutback.com

I always have trouble breaking the beads with hammers. Not to mention denting and chipping paint!
Not any more!

You'll like the tyrepliers. I have (not) fond memories of using the old school sliding hammers to break the bead and the fully aerobic exercise event that went with it.

The tyrepliers are relatively light, easy to pack and easy to use. They allow breaking both beads (you obviously have to do both sides of the wheel) with reasonably minimal effort.

Here's a picture of a mate breaking the bead on his conventional rim with my tyrepliers in the oz bush several years ago, while some of my other mates offer moral support

cheers,
george.