They say the memory is the first to go, but dame, I can't remember having to mount the knob to the cable
Scratchin my head too; seems like IIRCC it was more of snap and click. Like a electric connector you depress to release or something like that.
Builds spinning the roulette wheel (twice) on a 1996 Middle East HDJ81 at auction (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter John Young
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Scratchin my head too; seems like IIRCC it was more of snap and click. Like a electric connector you depress to release or something like that.
So curiosity is getting the best of me, went out to have another look. I don't see any pin to push out just this square hole.
Is there some kind of release in there ?
Is there some kind of release in there ?
Had to get my reading glass's to see it in there. Theirs a flat blade that needs to be pushed down to release the Knob. not compression fit.Compression fit. It pops off.
*At least mine does.
Hope this helps
Last edited:
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
Sadly, I learned the hard way. Installed my throttle cable and pushed the knob in, up side down. Spent 2 hours toying with how to undo my error.
Woops.
I need to re-address this. Mine just pops off if not careful. Looks like I need to index this tab...
- Thread starter
- #227
Thanks fellas. Very helpful and thanks fro going out to the truck, Broski. I noticed the little hole yesterday. I will give it another try this evening.
It would be nice to have this hand throttle work too.
It would be nice to have this hand throttle work too.
John To use the hand throttle, One needs to push down no the Gas/diesel peddle to the desired RPM, pull the knob to remove the slack from the cable, then turn the knob to the right to lock it in place. Just turn to the left release 
I'm guessing it works, It's just hard to get everything to move by just pulling the knob. And a good chance of braking it that way.
By the way I am very envious of you collection of Cruiser's !!! keep the posts coming
I'm guessing it works, It's just hard to get everything to move by just pulling the knob. And a good chance of braking it that way.
By the way I am very envious of you collection of Cruiser's !!! keep the posts coming
- Thread starter
- #229
Thanks to you guys I -did- get the throttle knob off.
And gradually I got everything else off too.
There were a couple of mystery wires....I ended up just cutting them.
And eventually off it came.
It was amazing how full of desert dust and sand it was. After a good scrub it actually looks ok. There are the cracks in a particular area, but that area is limited. I think the idea of some camel leather will probably work.
And gradually I got everything else off too.
There were a couple of mystery wires....I ended up just cutting them.
And eventually off it came.
It was amazing how full of desert dust and sand it was. After a good scrub it actually looks ok. There are the cracks in a particular area, but that area is limited. I think the idea of some camel leather will probably work.
- Thread starter
- #230
This morning, early before it was too hot, I went over to the warehouse and kept plugging away at getting the aircon condenser out. Eventually I was victorious:
And here, finally, is the culprit:
ToyoDIY says the part is a 88515-20100
But that's not available even in Oman. And the Denso part number on the existing expansion valve is 6M10 447500-9053. This is available in the US but not here online as far as I can tell.
Given how much work it is to get the dash out I really want to use a Denso or Toyota part. Does anyone know of other name-brand expansion valves that will work here?
And here, finally, is the culprit:
ToyoDIY says the part is a 88515-20100
But that's not available even in Oman. And the Denso part number on the existing expansion valve is 6M10 447500-9053. This is available in the US but not here online as far as I can tell.
Given how much work it is to get the dash out I really want to use a Denso or Toyota part. Does anyone know of other name-brand expansion valves that will work here?
- Thread starter
- #231
I got the heater core out of the Omani diesel 80 today and flushed it.
This is after a dozen times going both directions. It still has crap in it. I worked on getting the heater core out of the 1991 donor 80 today but it was very, very hot and could only work a few minutes at a time. Since it is a 1991 it will be made of brass. I am going to get that one rebuilt, I think. And also extend the pipes on it by about an inch like we did on our 80 in Florida. It makes it SO much easier to put the hoses on.
In other developments, the guys actually got the chassis on the new frame from the donor vehicle today.
I really like the alloy wheels on this. I was told they were from a 70 series LC at the scrap yard. I was going to put them on the troopy but they look very good on the 80.
Here is a bit of the new frame.
This is after a dozen times going both directions. It still has crap in it. I worked on getting the heater core out of the 1991 donor 80 today but it was very, very hot and could only work a few minutes at a time. Since it is a 1991 it will be made of brass. I am going to get that one rebuilt, I think. And also extend the pipes on it by about an inch like we did on our 80 in Florida. It makes it SO much easier to put the hoses on.
In other developments, the guys actually got the chassis on the new frame from the donor vehicle today.
I really like the alloy wheels on this. I was told they were from a 70 series LC at the scrap yard. I was going to put them on the troopy but they look very good on the 80.
Here is a bit of the new frame.
Andrew S
SILVER Star
John, I bought a Denso expansion valve from RockAuto, to suit my 1995 FZJ. You might give them a look, could be the same part you need?
- Thread starter
- #233
Fortunately, the Amazing Ryan at Al Matar auto parts in Sharjah was able to go straight to Denso and got one for 80 AED (22 USD), delivered!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #234
I went up to the warehouse after work as per usual and successfully got the cross brace out of the donor truck and after that everything went much more easily. One of the pieces I was looking for was the defroster defuser plastic duct. Strangely, the 1997 plastic was very badly deteriorated and falling apart, but the 1991 donor truck had a perfectly serviceable unit:
And finally the heater box:
View attachment 2721721
The heater core itself was very nice:
Like most all Land Cruisers I have seen of this vintage in the Middle East the heater core had been disconnected. When I flushed it lots of nasty chunks came out.
Despite several flushings in both directions it was still disgorging debris. I left it full of water and will try again tomorrow. I also intend to take this to a real radiator shop in Dubai and have it boiled and pressure tested and also have the outlets extended by about an inch. I did this on our Middle East 80 now in Florida and it makes things ever so much easier, installation-wise.
And finally the heater box:
View attachment 2721721
The heater core itself was very nice:
Like most all Land Cruisers I have seen of this vintage in the Middle East the heater core had been disconnected. When I flushed it lots of nasty chunks came out.
Despite several flushings in both directions it was still disgorging debris. I left it full of water and will try again tomorrow. I also intend to take this to a real radiator shop in Dubai and have it boiled and pressure tested and also have the outlets extended by about an inch. I did this on our Middle East 80 now in Florida and it makes things ever so much easier, installation-wise.
- Thread starter
- #235
It is obvious that there was a design change between 1991 and 1997:
The outlets are further apart on the brass heater core. But the Omani truck has an oblong opening in the firewall so it may still be workable to use the brass core. I strongly prefer to use the brass, not only because it is repairable but also because it is a larger heater core.
Looking at the heater boxes side by side it seems as if the mounting points are all the same--it is just the heater core space that is larger on the 1991 box.
I will look more closely to see if I can swap over the controls from the Omani box to the donor box. The Donor had the automatic climate control while the Omani diesel had the manual sliders (which I actually prefer). Should be interesting to see if I actually can swap boxes and use the brass heater core.
The outlets are further apart on the brass heater core. But the Omani truck has an oblong opening in the firewall so it may still be workable to use the brass core. I strongly prefer to use the brass, not only because it is repairable but also because it is a larger heater core.
Looking at the heater boxes side by side it seems as if the mounting points are all the same--it is just the heater core space that is larger on the 1991 box.
I will look more closely to see if I can swap over the controls from the Omani box to the donor box. The Donor had the automatic climate control while the Omani diesel had the manual sliders (which I actually prefer). Should be interesting to see if I actually can swap boxes and use the brass heater core.
- Thread starter
- #236
I asked the guys for a recommendation for an radiator shop that could chemically clean, pressure test and extend the ends for the heater cores. They suggested a place in Ras Al Khor, an industrial area at the other end of Dubai. I took some time off work to go do this in person because I really enjoy seeing this stuff in person.
First they did a pressure test on both heater cores, and surprisingly they both passed.
I had asked them to extend the outlet tubes by about an inch. I did this on our 80 now in Florida and it made it ever so much easier to connect the heater core--and get the hoses off too.
They did not happen to have the right diameter aluminum tube for the aluminum heater core so they took a piece of larger tubing, cut a bit out length-wise and then shrank it down.
I could see this would work but it was not going easily.
Meanwhile I looked around the shop. Mostly they deal with big semi-truck radiators. One of the guys was soldering with lead on one such radiator:
Fortunately the guys remembered somewhere else to look and found aluminum tubing of the correct diameter and the heli-arc guy got to work
And another technician brazed the extensions on the brass heater core.
First they did a pressure test on both heater cores, and surprisingly they both passed.
I had asked them to extend the outlet tubes by about an inch. I did this on our 80 now in Florida and it made it ever so much easier to connect the heater core--and get the hoses off too.
They did not happen to have the right diameter aluminum tube for the aluminum heater core so they took a piece of larger tubing, cut a bit out length-wise and then shrank it down.
I could see this would work but it was not going easily.
Meanwhile I looked around the shop. Mostly they deal with big semi-truck radiators. One of the guys was soldering with lead on one such radiator:
Fortunately the guys remembered somewhere else to look and found aluminum tubing of the correct diameter and the heli-arc guy got to work
And another technician brazed the extensions on the brass heater core.
- Thread starter
- #237
Then it was time for chemical cleaning.
Stuff kept coming out
But eventually they got it as clean as possible and pressure tested again, both passing. Here is the result:
On the way home, I saw this:
This is one of the reasons I like living in Dubai. A Florida 1959 Caddy, with plates in Ras Al Khor, just sitting there waiting for something.
Stuff kept coming out
But eventually they got it as clean as possible and pressure tested again, both passing. Here is the result:
On the way home, I saw this:
This is one of the reasons I like living in Dubai. A Florida 1959 Caddy, with plates in Ras Al Khor, just sitting there waiting for something.
- Thread starter
- #238
It has been so, so long on this frame swap.
But the guys have been getting after it during the past few months and finally the truck is back in one piece. And ready for re-registration.
The way car registrations work in the UAE is that you have to clear any blemishes on your record before you can transact any business with the Road and Transport Authority. In my case, the 81's registration had been expired too long and it was preventing me from re-registering my other vehicles, including my daily driver. I had no choice to surrender the license plates for the 81 last September and get instead a 'possession certificate' showing that I owned the vehicle.
Skip forward several months and trips and family matters until a few days ago when it was 'ready'. I went over to the RTA and discussed it ahead of time. There is a great government service center up in Dubai Investment Park 2 that almost never is busy and the guys have time to talk to you. And I find that going over things in advance makes things easier. I showed them the paperwork and they informed me that I had to take the truck to Al Futtaim Motors, which is the exclusive licensee for Toyota in the UAE, to have them 're-punch' the donor frame now on the truck with the HDJ81 frame number.
I had been expecting this, but I had hoped it could be avoided. After many, many calls and emails I finally found the part of the giant Al Futtaim organization that could do this and sent the truck by flatbed to the other side of Dubai to the Al Futtaim BodyCentre. There the service advisor insisted that I produce the 'Mulkiya' for the truck. This the annual registration card that looks like this:
I could not find a photo of the back side and for this Al Futtaim wanted to do something called 'frame measurements'; no idea why. I searched and even went back to the RTA to ask if they had a copy of the card, but by this time my plate number had been issued to someone else and they could not. They did, however, confirm that the possession certificate was the right document for Al Futtaim to use for their documentation. I was unable to fully persuade Al Futtaim not to do the frame measurement so I ended up spending an additional 1700 AED for that; total cost for frame punching 4500 or about 1225 USD. And I now have it:
So now I am off to meet the flatbed at the testing center to see if I can register the darned thing!
But the guys have been getting after it during the past few months and finally the truck is back in one piece. And ready for re-registration.
The way car registrations work in the UAE is that you have to clear any blemishes on your record before you can transact any business with the Road and Transport Authority. In my case, the 81's registration had been expired too long and it was preventing me from re-registering my other vehicles, including my daily driver. I had no choice to surrender the license plates for the 81 last September and get instead a 'possession certificate' showing that I owned the vehicle.
Skip forward several months and trips and family matters until a few days ago when it was 'ready'. I went over to the RTA and discussed it ahead of time. There is a great government service center up in Dubai Investment Park 2 that almost never is busy and the guys have time to talk to you. And I find that going over things in advance makes things easier. I showed them the paperwork and they informed me that I had to take the truck to Al Futtaim Motors, which is the exclusive licensee for Toyota in the UAE, to have them 're-punch' the donor frame now on the truck with the HDJ81 frame number.
I had been expecting this, but I had hoped it could be avoided. After many, many calls and emails I finally found the part of the giant Al Futtaim organization that could do this and sent the truck by flatbed to the other side of Dubai to the Al Futtaim BodyCentre. There the service advisor insisted that I produce the 'Mulkiya' for the truck. This the annual registration card that looks like this:
I could not find a photo of the back side and for this Al Futtaim wanted to do something called 'frame measurements'; no idea why. I searched and even went back to the RTA to ask if they had a copy of the card, but by this time my plate number had been issued to someone else and they could not. They did, however, confirm that the possession certificate was the right document for Al Futtaim to use for their documentation. I was unable to fully persuade Al Futtaim not to do the frame measurement so I ended up spending an additional 1700 AED for that; total cost for frame punching 4500 or about 1225 USD. And I now have it:
So now I am off to meet the flatbed at the testing center to see if I can register the darned thing!
- Thread starter
- #239
I met the flatbed at the RTA and the truck went on in:
After various delays and paperwork SNAFUs eventually I got this:
Please note how 'Green' this truck is!
And I was gratified re the brakes.
And after a bit more fussing about:
So I am back on the road with the turbo diesel!
After various delays and paperwork SNAFUs eventually I got this:
Please note how 'Green' this truck is!
And I was gratified re the brakes.
And after a bit more fussing about:
So I am back on the road with the turbo diesel!
